How should I f%@k up my 200T's?

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Zombiechopper

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So.... ALL my other saws have always been ported and modded. By me. Never felt the need to mess with the 200T's because they act like a ported saw out of the box, and because I always had bigger saws ready to go. Now I want to mess with them. What to do....????

Might widen the exhaust a tiny bit, but really the ports look good stock, and it already runs. I'm going no base gasket (or make one to get my squish). What is the opinion on grinding? Does it need it? What would one even do with those open transfers? I could radius the bottoms a bit, and maybe widen a smidge towards the intake. Looking for opinions from anyone who has tried porting one

Advance timing. Never done this before. Shave 1/3 of key= ~5degrees??

Last place I can see room for improvement is inside the muffler. Since it comes apart, it can be 'ported' inside to improve flow. Has anyone tried this before? Waste of time?

Just forming a game plan. Looking for ideas
 
So.... ALL my other saws have always been ported and modded. By me. Never felt the need to mess with the 200T's because they act like a ported saw out of the box, and because I always had bigger saws ready to go. Now I want to mess with them. What to do....????

Might widen the exhaust a tiny bit, but really the ports look good stock, and it already runs. I'm going no base gasket (or make one to get my squish). What is the opinion on grinding? Does it need it? What would one even do with those open transfers? I could radius the bottoms a bit, and maybe widen a smidge towards the intake. Looking for opinions from anyone who has tried porting one

Advance timing. Never done this before. Shave 1/3 of key= ~5degrees??

Last place I can see room for improvement is inside the muffler. Since it comes apart, it can be 'ported' inside to improve flow. Has anyone tried this before? Waste of time?

Just forming a game plan. Looking for ideas
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No lathe. Don't nobody tell me it needs machining. Not happening.

Here's a question Lone Wolf, how do you decide if 020/200T crank and bearings are good? They wiggle. How much is ok? They feel 'good'. But I have a few other cranks that also feel fine too. So maybe they are all bad or all ok. Hard to say. Tough to know.

The first candidate is probably going to be an 020T case and jug with a meteor piston. I think it will even be a flippy/screwdown hybrid. I'll probably buy a magnum badge for it. I started pulling the oil seals to rebuild it at least two years ago and then stopped. It's in a box. I'm sure most of you know how this story goes......
 
No lathe. Don't nobody tell me it needs machining. Not happening.

Here's a question Lone Wolf, how do you decide if 020/200T crank and bearings are good? They wiggle. How much is ok? They feel 'good'. But I have a few other cranks that also feel fine too. So maybe they are all bad or all ok. Hard to say. Tough to know.

The first candidate is probably going to be an 020T case and jug with a meteor piston. I think it will even be a flippy/screwdown hybrid. I'll probably buy a magnum badge for it. I started pulling the oil seals to rebuild it at least two years ago and then stopped. It's in a box. I'm sure most of you know how this story goes......
Check the lower rod bearing for up and down play only not side to side. The trick is to get it perfectly centered when feeling for perceptible wear. If it is leaning it will give the impression of no play but dead center is where you check.
 
All of my top handle saws are used on the ground exclusively. If you have an opinion about that, please write a letter to your congressman explaining how you feel. Don't tell me about it. I'm old and broken and light little saws are the only way I'm gonna stay in this game. So, really, please, just keep it to yourself.
 
All of my top handle saws are used on the ground exclusively. If you have an opinion about that, please write a letter to your congressman explaining how you feel. Don't tell me about it. I'm old and broken and light little saws are the only way I'm gonna stay in this game. So, really, please, just keep it to yourself.
I used to use them all the time till I got an MS241C it uses the same bar and chain as your favorite MS200T's do. I like it better because I get more reach . You should try one.
 
they are head knockers without a base gasket, I have one customer who swears that cabers give him better compression than stock OEM rings, that seems a little wacky to me but he buys a set of cabers with every piston he buys even though the pistons come with OEM rings, swears up and down that it is at least 10PSI better from the jump, your mileage may vary
 
My theory is that if you can't properly use a top handle saw, you shouldn't use a rear handle either.
I gotta disagree in a super polite gentlemen in top hats kinda way - I know a lot of good guys who are safe skilled operators who I would never hand a top handle saw to, including me, a man on the ground should use a rear handle it is safer, period.
on a top handle your hands are to close together for good leverage, cutting one handed is a great way to get hurt, even my climber switches to a rear handle when he comes out of the tree
Dave
 
I gotta disagree in a super polite gentlemen in top hats kinda way - I know a lot of good guys who are safe skilled operators who I would never hand a top handle saw to, including me, a man on the ground should use a rear handle it is safer, period.
on a top handle your hands are to close together for good leverage, cutting one handed is a great way to get hurt, even my climber switches to a rear handle when he comes out of the tree
Dave
Well with 40 years of tree work I had all four fingers cut in half and the tendons had to be tied back in knots to be healed. An XL2 top handle did this. I can tell you It happens because the saw begs to be one handed and people tend to use the left hand to grab pieces and have it in range. If you keep two hands on it you are OK. One hand is when most of the trouble occurs.
 
My theorif you can't properly use a top handle saw, you shouldn't use a rear handle either.
A tophandle was my first saw and I knew nothing about kickback. Got it (Poulan micro) when I was 14 in 1977 and used it till 1986 when my mom felt sorry for my vibrated fingers and got me an 028 super. I never knew about kickback till I got on this site, just felt and listened to what the saw was telling me in a cut.
 
I've heard rumblings that you are going to have to be certified for dealers to sell you a top handle saw .
 
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