How To Remove Aluminum Transfer Without Acid

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Slightly off topic but I use this same mandrel with emory cloth to remove any carbon build-up on the piston wrist pin bore. I always struggled inserting the piston pin when re-using a piston until I started hitting the pin bore briefly with emory cloth on the mandrel to remove any carbon that had built up. Doing this, the pins slide in by hand nice and tight just like those in a new kit.
 
Slightly off topic but I use this same mandrel with emory cloth to remove any carbon build-up on the piston wrist pin bore. I always struggled inserting the piston pin when re-using a piston until I started hitting the pin bore briefly with emory cloth on the mandrel to remove any carbon that had built up. Doing this, the pins slide in by hand nice and tight just like those in a new kit.
That's some pretty nice advice. I hadn't got that far yet in learning all there is to learn about repairing saw. I've used a steel spike with emery cloth on cylinders but hadn't thought about the piston pin. Thanks for the great tip!
 
:wtf::wtf::wtf::wtf:

:clap:This is a great thread that has helped a LOT of people :clap:

:innocent:Wood it be possible for some one to make it a sticky please. :innocent:
:crazy2:or could some 1 let me know how to do it :dumb:
 
Just a question here.....

Randy and other experts using this method, have y'all found that certain brands have thicker plating than others in general?

I have successfully cleaned up/repaired around 10 Stihl cylinders of all kinds and ages, but, I have yet to remove the transfer on a Husky cylinder without going through the plating near the chamfers for the exhaust port.

Any tips on what I need to change??


Thanks as always!!!
 
I have seen thinner plating in some jugs.

Not on OEM Husky jugs though, except for the 353, and 359.

Make sure you don't allow your mandrel to tilt into the port at all.
 
I have seen thinner plating in some jugs.

Not on OEM Husky jugs though, except for the 353, and 359.

Make sure you don't allow your mandrel to tilt into the port at all.


Thank You Sir!

I will keep an eye on the angle of the mandrel, I have been trying to keep it parallel to the cylinder but I think I am maybe applying too much pressure where the extra transfer may be built up next to the exhaust port.


I went through the plating on a very rough (mostly figured it was junk anyways) Husky 55 cylinder, and I barely went through a 266SE cylinder....

The 266SE cylinder is repairable by chamfering where it went through the plating without free porting the piston.



Have you tried using any kind of oil in the cylinder with good outcome to float away the transfer particles and keep the emory cloth more effective without as much pressure?
 
Yes sir.......I use WD-40 sometimes.
If I use any lube it's Marvel mystery oil for me But only cause my buddy's machine shop has a 5 gallon can of it and He said I can have all I want..... so free is good!!

This is a great tred, So Kudos go out to MM...... I have salvaged several classic/no longer made OEM cylinders with the technique's that the gun totin monkey has demonstrated there in.... Thanks Randy!!!
 

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