how to use a chainsaw?

[sacred_dog]

OK, I'm embarrassed to say this out loud in front of god and everyone, but I need someone to teach me how to cut wood with my darn chain saws.

(I have been cutting wood for years, and plenty of it, but have always had fits with chainsaws. Whether I was using a junker homelite or a husky or a stihl, my chains are good for one or two tanks, then I cannot bring them back to life with the file. My Stihl is currently cutting curves, throwing sawdust - not chips, burning, and simply will not sharpen with my file. My husky did the same thing. and NO, I don't cut dirt with it... grrrr.... I have filed the bar, and THINK I know how to file a chain... arg.

Is there a web site that is clear and concise about HOW TO USE YOUR CHAINSAW?

I'm sick of putting on a good chain, getting one or two tanks worth of impressive cutting, then the chain is dull and I'd be happier with a bow saw. HELP

thanks,

Tim

 

[rtrsam]

Using a chainsaw is one thing, sharpening is another entirely. If you can't safely use a chainsaw, the only thing is to get someone to teach you how in person, or you risk getting badly hurt or killed. It takes about ten minutes to learn all the bad stuff a chainsaw can do to you, and years of experience to figure out how the saw (and the wood you cut) will get you. However, it sounds more like you have trouble sharpening your chains. Most important thing I've learned is to recognize what a sharp tooth looks like, then file your chain until the teeth look like a sharp tooth. It sounds stupid, but it's the best way to describe it. Really look at a sharp cutter tooth, the angles, the sharpness of the top plate, working corner, side... Perhaps go to a shop and have them sell you about three inches of the size chain you use, enough for a couple sharp cutters to compare to.

The file jigs that clamp on the bar are pretty reliable (they drive me crazy and I haven't used one since I figured out how not to need one), but you have to stick with it until each tooth is perfectly sharp to get good results

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Sell me your junker Homelite and when you drop it off Ill help get you on the right track.


Are you using a file guide and the proper file?



.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

I think that the file guides that Stihl makes helped me a lot. They hold the file up so that you filing up near the top of the tooth, and they have guides to show you the correct angle. It also helped after I learned that you should only file with the file going outward on the tooth, and that the file should only be pushed and never pulled (pulling rounds off the file teeth). Stihl makes a kit in a nice little pouch that includes the round file and handle, flat file and handle for the rakers, a guide for the files that includes a depth tool for the rakers.

I did a search to try and find an internet guide to teach you - and the best one I found was no the Stihl website. Chainsaw filing is at the end of Chapter 2 and beginning of Chapter 3. Here is the link:

http://www.stihlusa.com/information/info_lit_video.html#chain-saw-safety-video

This should help you considerably.

 

[Countrybois]

dremel tool sharpening

Aside from what anyone tells you, it is not rocket science. I use a dremel tool with the chainsaw attachment on it and it works great. I know by no means do I get each tooth, or the depth gauges, the same but I tell ya what, when I put that chain on she cuts like mad. I guess a little common sense goes a long ways also.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

There are wildly different opinions about the Dremel sharpeners on this site. Some love them - and others don't. Those that don't believe it is too easy to overheat the cutter and remove the temper.

I have never used a dremel. I just look/feel my cutting teeth and if they have lost the very sharp edge - I file them with about 3 strokes and that is usually all it takes. I don't have any 2 tank, 3 tank formula......I just keep track of the shavings the saw makes and inspect the teeth. If the chain is damaged by a rock/nail/fence etc. then I take them to my dealer - he only charges $ 5.00 to sharpen any sized chain and does a great job getting everything back in order.

 

[syd3006]

I used to have a hard time sharpening as well. Now I buy "Oregon" chains, they have a guide line on every tooth to keep your file on the proper angle. I also tip the file upward slightly in the direction that I am filing. It is a good idea in my opinion to keep all the teeth on the chain the same size as much as possible, which is to say if you give one five strokes with the file give them all the same amount. I usually try to find the dullest tooth, file it sharp, count the number of passes with the file and then give the rest of them the same amount of strokes. I always mark the tooth that I start on with crayon or something so I know where to stop. The guides that you can buy are good for keeping your file on the proper angle but after using one for a while it will become second nature for you I'm sure.

 

[tomtrees58]

a file is good 4 5 times then put in trash tom trees LI NY opcorn:

 

[Zodiac45]

Most people have a tendency too increase the angle when filing. I see this all the time when I mount the chain onto my grinder. They tend to put too much pressure against the inside of the tooth. Remember that it's the outside corner of your tooth that's doing the brunt of the work, try to keep an even pressure there and be smooth. You don't need to be heavy handed either. Make sure you have a sharp file, and wire brush it clean every so often when filing. If you rock it, or seriously dull it, get it reground

 

[johnha]

Go to one of the vendor sites who are good enough to support this forum and start looking at chains. You will find that there are chains that are for clean wood and others that are designed for use in situations where you're going to run into more dirt.

Whether or not there is much difference, there are a lot of members here with way more experience than I have that can give their opinions. An I would like to hear them myself.

 

[Blakesmaster]

If you're anywhere near Binghamton, NY, bring your saws over and I'll teach you. It's pretty simple, just takes some patience. And for God sakes man, when your saw stops spitting chips, stop trying to use it, that's a good way to kill a bar, or saw for that matter.

 

[fourustircom]

Sharp chains

Does anybody use a grinder like the monster that Harbor Freight sells? $29.95 this week! I've got a shop that sharpens for $6, was $5. They claim it still takes 20 minutes to a half hour to do a chain. That appears to work out to less than the hourly rate of most lawn mower shops these days. It seems high, but it's easy. I'd get the angle wrong and waste a chain. I tried the Dremel attachment and was afraid of grinding too much off. I didn't realize you couldn't reuse a file more than a couple of times. Bummer.

Thanks!

 

[daemon2525]

Does anybody use a grinder like the monster that Harbor Freight sells? $29.95 this week! I've got a shop that sharpens for $6, was $5. They claim it still takes 20 minutes to a half hour to do a chain. That appears to work out to less than the hourly rate of most lawn mower shops these days. It seems high, but it's easy. I'd get the angle wrong and waste a chain. I tried the Dremel attachment and was afraid of grinding too much off. I didn't realize you couldn't reuse a file more than a couple of times. Bummer.

Thanks!

I use one of the HF 29.00 grinders and although everyone on this board says that they are absolutley worthless, I can tell you different. Yes, I had to straighten up the rotation, but if you get one, I can tell you how to do that simply. This machine may not sharpen as good as the experts on this forum can sharpen with a rock (sarcasm), but just tell that to half of the guys in my neighborhood that bring me their chains to sharpen.

 

[fourustircom]

Thanks!

I appreciate the info and I'll let you know if I end up with one. I normally carry sharp chains with me and stop using when the chips get small. That's apout the time the cover needs cleaning out anyway.

Thanks!

 

[2FatGuys]

There have been a LOT of threads here bashing the Harbor Freight sharpener but supporting the one from Northern Tool (with a few slight modifications). I used to use a Dremel-like sharpener once sold by Sears (25 years ago). It was a much lower RPM device than a Dremel and didn't burn the teeth. I graduated to hand filing only about 15 years ago. It's fairly simple once you get the hang of it. If I dull one too bad (nail, concrete, etc.), our dealer will redress a chain for $5.

I bought a HF unit and tried it on one "trash chain" then took it back. The plastic body and frame do not allow for consistent settings. It CAN work, but the time necessary to make sure it is properly aligned on each tooth is more than what is required to hand sharpen.


**** TOMTREES ***** If you are only hand filing a chain 4-5 times before throwing them away, send them to me instead of the trash! I'll get a lot of use out of them!

 

[Husky137]

**** TOMTREES ***** If you are only hand filing a chain 4-5 times before throwing them away, send them to me instead of the trash! I'll get a lot of use out of them!

I think he was referring to the file.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

There have been a LOT of threads here bashing the Harbor Freight sharpener but supporting the one from Northern Tool (with a few slight modifications). I bought a HF unit and tried it on one "trash chain" then took it back. The plastic body and frame do not allow for consistent settings.

The Nortthern grinder is a huge bargain.


The HF unit I saw in their store almost made me puke, I cant imagine what happens once it starts to wear.....



.

 

[beerman6]

Does anybody use a grinder like the monster that Harbor Freight sells? $29.95 this week!

Thanks!

:censored: I just bought one Saturday(39.95I think),at first I was skeptical.I tried it on my nastiest chain,still not convinced...Then I put the chain into a log :jawdrop: It was throwin some serious chips and cutting straight.It seemed to dull up pretty quick,but I MIGHT have ate some dirt.I will keep it and try it again,but I would like to learn how to file also.

 

[aandabooks]

Guy I work with has one of the cheap ones from ebay. Basically Harbor Freight or whatever Chinese knock off was $30. It does a serviceable job on the 91 LP chain with a 1/8" wheel. He sharpens those chains for me for a $1 each. I won't even let him touch my Stihl RSC or Oregon LGX chains though. Hence why I'm teaching myself to hand sharpen.

There is a Chain Sharpening forum here on AS, it is just hard to find. Go back out to the main page and scroll down under the sponsers area. Now you'll find the section with the tradin' post, chainsaw forums and such. Click on where it says, "Equipment Forums" on the green bar and many of the hidden forums will be opened up for you.

 

[sacred_dog]

sharpening

thanks for all the input guys:

here is my ugly reality:

I am a bruiser of a man (could PROBABLY cut trees with a chainsaw if the blade was WELDED to the body and dull as a butter knife.)

Am VERY handy with hand tools (although not a "wrench")

I'm too smart for my own good. (which often makes me a dumb ass)

and (here is the kicker) I am impatient (although safe).

I think I must slow down with the file, pay closer attention to the angles, INSPECT the existing condition of the blade, knock off the drags, and check my damned bar (although i have recently dressed it).

but I REALLY appreciate all the input.

and YES< I will contact the guy from Binghamton, just to make sure. I'm near Oneonta, but travel through binghamton often enough.

Tim

when I die and go to heaven, I am going to harshly discuss chainsaw blades and the designs of KNEES with God...