The height of it is kind of misleading from the picture (I'm 5' 10") and I can't get to the low part of the trunk due to it sitting against the neighbors fence. The top of it in the back is my height but i'm not exactly comfortable cutting it at face height. I used the ladder to mount the tree and cut it while on the tree in sections but even that is uncomfortable due to the chance of falling off.well, I wouldn't use a ladder for starters
but to get the stob down, undercut it until you see the top start to move (stop before you pinch your bar) make a bit of a face cut for relief than with a fast sharp saw cutter off from the top
wait, so which stem are we working on here? the skinny one rope it and pull it, the fat one, do as I said above, its not going to hit anything that I can see, except that ladder.The height of it is kind of misleading from the picture (I'm 5' 10") and I can't get to the low part of the trunk due to it sitting against the neighbors fence. The top of it in the back is my height but i'm not exactly comfortable cutting it at face height. I used the ladder to mount the tree and cut it while on the tree in sections but even that is uncomfortable due to the chance of falling off.
That's just it. It's hard to figure out from a picture.wait, so which stem are we working on here? the skinny one rope it and pull it, the fat one, do as I said above, its not going to hit anything that I can see, except that ladder.
You used uncomfortable twice in one sentence... that should really tell you the answer right there. Some things can be learned on the internet, and some just can't. This tree is actually procedurally simple, much like driving 500 miles in an oval is simple, when you think about it, lol.The height of it is kind of misleading from the picture (I'm 5' 10") and I can't get to the low part of the trunk due to it sitting against the neighbors fence. The top of it in the back is my height but i'm not exactly comfortable cutting it at face height. I used the ladder to mount the tree and cut it while on the tree in sections but even that is uncomfortable due to the chance of falling off.
Which can pose its own dangers. It's very easy to put unknown tension on something like that with a piece of equipment.I’d probably use an excavator with a thumb to provide some lift while I cut it with a saw.
If you don’t have one, or a crane, or something similar, I’d suggest you hire the work done.
Agree with getting the ladder out of the equation and doing an under cut on the compression side as far as seems appropriate then coming down from the top on the tension side an inch or so outward from the initial cut, it should just snap off (I think...)I'm not really sure how I can go about taking this down safely without it barber chairing. Any ideas?
A barber chair is not my primary worry with this tree, at least what I can tell from a single picture. The truncated stem extending off to the right looks pretty straightforward - a small notch up from the bottom side, bore cut and release - be prepared for it to release itself if the strap gets thin enough. The stem going upwards is the one that scares me. It looks like there is only the most tenuous connection where the vertical stem veers off to the left. I'd be concerned that any stump movement caused by dropping the low "arm" would be enough to make that (apparently very) weak connection to fail. Without being on the ground to see how all the tree parts relate to each other and to the infrastructure (fence, house, who knows what else), That's the best I have.I'm not really sure how I can go about taking this down safely without it barber chairing. Any ideas?
Bout what I would do use a big fast saw bore it small notch cut the back fastwell, I wouldn't use a ladder for starters
but to get the stob down, undercut it until you see the top start to move (stop before you pinch your bar) make a bit of a face cut for relief than with a fast sharp saw cutter off from the top
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