Hud-son "Little Oscar" build

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jweier111

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I joined this site several years ago when I got into chainsaw milling. The plan has always been to upgrade to a Bandsaw mill at some point. I was ready to pull the trigger on a restored Woodmizer earlier this year, but that plan was torpedoed when I found the frame was rusted out on my mom's SUV. So after buying her a car, my budget for anything was pretty much shot. Fast forward a couple months, and some crazy coincidences (and some side hustle money) aligned and I was able to to pick up a well used Hud-Son "Little Oscar" with a 14HP BS engine. It required a 12 hour round trip to Missouri from Wisconsin to pick it up. But it was a fun road trip with my daughter.

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The gentleman who I bought the mill from was incredibly kind. His son helped us load the monster 20 foot track onto the truck. Yes...the 6 hour drive through Illinois back to South Central Wisconsin was a little tense 😅. My original plan was to cut the track down and mount it to a 14 foot trailer I already had. But the previous owner talked me into keeping the track in one piece (and I'm glad he did). A 24 foot trailer also popped up on market place for a price I couldn't say no to the day after we got it home. And the seller even delivered it from the Chicago area.

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The trailer is a little narrow for mill. But the plan is to mate the mill track to the trailer, and then widen the axle with a sleeve. But first I needed some help from my dad and brother unloading the mill.

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The trailer had about 1" of bow to it over the span of 24 feet. I was able to reduce this to 1/2" through heat straightening (10 spots on either side of the trailer heated up with torch). The remainder will be addressed with 1/2" grade 8 "jacking" bolts to keep the track straight. Also with the amount of welding I had to do, I figured the additional heat into the top side would likely pull the bow out some more too.

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To address the width I cut a dozen 5/16 thick tabs and welded them to the 1/4" stake pockets along each side of the trailer. That flushed the mounting points to the main frame. And gave me enough room to weld in the grade 8 bolts to support the track.

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I'm adding four 2000lb jacks to the ends of the trailer, and a pair of 2000lbs stabilizers in the middle (to ensure clearance for the the hydraulic log loader). I've gotten as far as getting a root welded to the frame for 1/3" tube. But have 1/4" angle gussets cut to attach and reinforce these joints to the frame as well.

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Once the original track is straightened and leveled, I'm going to extend it 4 feet forward. That should give me over all about 24 feet of track (up to 22ish foot of cut.
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I ran out of shield gas yesterday so turned my attention to a couple other items. I'm planning to add hydraulics to this mill to save my back (after 2 back fusions surgeries...it's a necessity, not a "nice to have"). Originally I thought that'd require buying a gas powered hydraulic power unit ($$$) and have to wait unitl fall. But I ran across a 16GPM log splitter kit, and found a cheap 7HP snow blower on marketplace this weekend. Picked it up and took it down to my dad to liberate the motor fro the snow blower.

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Turns out it's a dual shaft. Not sure if I'll trying using the smaller shaft for anything (as I understand it it runs 1/2 RPM of the main shaft). But we're kicking the idea around of maybe putting an alternator on it. Regardless the main shaft should work fine with the pump kit I'm looking at. The next step will be to start collecting materials and cylinders for the log lifter, hydraulic clamp, and log turner. But for right now I still have plenty of work to finish on the main mill. As I was kind of at a stand still for welding, I turned my attention to getting a couple coats of paint on the mill head. Several more coats to follow.

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So that's where we're at so far. Once I get my cylinder refilled, back to welding. I've got log dogs to fabricate, a few more jacks to attach and a bunch of gussets to weld on before starting on the hydraulics (which will be a couple months yet). But I'm feeling pretty positive about the progress I've made so far (just about 20 hours of labor not counting the time picking it up and unloading).

I should also point out that Hud-Son has been amazing to work with. Despite being an old second hand mill, they were great over the phone getting me info on the machine. It's still a work in progress, but I'll keep updating this thread as things progress.
 
The small shaft is an output of the cam shaft, it does run half engine speed and reverse rotation. (It was used for the snow blowers reverse "gear") you can't take much power from it. I'd skip the alternator idea and find a flywheel/rotor and stator for charging needs. Also snow pro engines didn't have a air filter, so some parts will need borrowed off another engine there too. You may, also, have to adjust the jetting in the carb. (I can't remember if they were fixed jet or not.)
Project over all looks fun. Always nice to put your hands in everything and know exactly what you have. I look forward to reading future posts.
 
I like the idea of adding an alternator to the aux engine. Power feed is a great addition to a band mill, I get much better cuts, you can set the feed rate a little slower than you would push, and it's a steady rate.
I think a lot of people with small band mills have a lot of problems with the cuts because they are pushing the mill as fast as they think it can go and usually find just slowing down a but helps a lot.
My mill has a 10 hp yanmar diesel with electric start and produces enough current for the power feed motor, it only draws about 6 amps or so pushing the mill.
There's a guy on ebay sells sawmill powerfeed gearmotors for around 160, think I paid another 40-50 for the chain and gears, and maybe 15-20 for the pwm motor speed control.
My mill deck is 27 feet long, I wanted to be able to do long beams for the bigger log structures I build.
You could do a hydraulic feed, but electric would be far simpler and cheaper.
 

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I like the idea of adding an alternator to the aux engine. Power feed is a great addition to a band mill, I get much better cuts, you can set the feed rate a little slower than you would push, and it's a steady rate.
I think a lot of people with small band mills have a lot of problems with the cuts because they are pushing the mill as fast as they think it can go and usually find just slowing down a but helps a lot.
My mill has a 10 hp yanmar diesel with electric start and produces enough current for the power feed motor, it only draws about 6 amps or so pushing the mill.
There's a guy on ebay sells sawmill powerfeed gearmotors for around 160, think I paid another 40-50 for the chain and gears, and maybe 15-20 for the pwm motor speed control.
My mill deck is 27 feet long, I wanted to be able to do long beams for the bigger log structures I build.
You could do a hydraulic feed, but electric would be far simpler and cheaper.
You fail to realize how little power can be taken from the camshaft and how much it takes to run an alternator. It's not advisable on the engine he got. Far easier to source a 15-25 amp system for under the flywheel.
 
I did a little research after what @sean donato mentioned about the pulley being off the camshaft. The alternator idea was just kind of thrown out there as a passing thought between my dad and I this morning. But definitely sounds like it wouldn't be worth it in this case. However re-powering the mill head was already something I was planning on. I've got a couple 16-17HP riding lawn mowers saved in Marketplace as possible sources for a new motor with a 12v starter that can also recharge a battery.

I've been waiting two weeks for a pair of electric wheelchair motors to arrive (USPS has delayed their delivery). The plan is to use a deep cycle battery (or two) for now with an onboard charger to power them both (one for raising/lowering the mill head, and another for power feed). Once the motors get here I've got to check their compatibility with the motor controller I have. The actual setup for feed isn't super complicated (basically the same thing as what Hud-Son uses; #40 chain, motor mounted to the head, and a couple sprockets). The extra motor might not be enough to raise and lower the head, but figured I'd give it a shot before picking up an electric winch. @poleframer I considered using a hydraulic motor instead of 12V, but again...we'll see once the wheel chair motors arrive (they were cheap...). Timber framing is something I have ambitions on. Might take a course next summer. One crazy pipe dream at a time 😅.

Got another coat of paint on the mill head tonight, and a new 40lb cylinder of C-25. Have to wait till Wednesday for the weather to clear up to do some more welding.

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Looking good so far!
It looks like that the belt off the engine runs a pulley behind the drive wheel instead of the drive wheel like on mine and most small band mills, using a centrifugal clutch.
These setups are somewhat hp limited as those clutches would burn up using bigger engines.
@ Sean, I was thinking a small PM alternator that only put's out 8-10 amps and dosnt take much power. but if a bigger engine with electric start is in the plans thats a waste of time and money. I also didnt think of having to route wires from a stationary engine to the moving mill head, all my electric gear is on the mill head.
Since you are looking to have power up and down along with power feed and log handling hydraulics are you planning on having the controls on the mill head and moving around with it, or making the controls stationary on the end of the mill?
I could see pro's and con's with each system
 
@poleframer In the short term the motor controls will be mounted to the mill head for testing everything out. Long term, my plan is to basically copy the layout of the Hudson H360 as much as possible. So the hydro controls are going to be up by the front of the trailer. The #40 chain for feed will run down the left side of the mill (looking rearward), and a the 12V control wiring will be run along side of it in a plastic cable drag chain (both will be separated in a sheet metal channel running the length of the mill) to a set of relays to control the motors instead of walking along with it. A least one battery will be on the mill head itself. I'm more or less copying the log lifter position as well (thought the design will be slightly different). I plan on hauling the Hydraulic power unit in the bed of my truck, then just connect up with quick connect hoses from the power unit to the mill once onsite.

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The H360 uses a hydraulic feed motor and a chain "loop" down the length of the trailer. I decided on duplicating Hud-son's 12V feed instead both for simplicity, and cost. The motors both got here today, and the sprockets I ordered from the robot RC supply fit perfectly. So I'm going to be doing some testing later this week. The motors are beefier than I expected so
 
Wisdom in your thinking, plan ahead but take one thing at a time. I prefer that method for my builds, since I've fabricobbled so many machines together.
I turned this from a track dumper into a .... useful contraption
And the little crane takes care of my log handling chores, have used it on several timber framing projects.
 

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Looking good so far!
It looks like that the belt off the engine runs a pulley behind the drive wheel instead of the drive wheel like on mine and most small band mills, using a centrifugal clutch.
These setups are somewhat hp limited as those clutches would burn up using bigger engines.
@ Sean, I was thinking a small PM alternator that only put's out 8-10 amps and dosnt take much power. but if a bigger engine with electric start is in the plans thats a waste of time and money. I also didnt think of having to route wires from a stationary engine to the moving mill head, all my electric gear is on the mill head.
Since you are looking to have power up and down along with power feed and log handling hydraulics are you planning on having the controls on the mill head and moving around with it, or making the controls stationary on the end of the mill?
I could see pro's and con's with each system
Hadn't thought of a little pm alternator, would probably be fine on the reverse shaft. Would want to check rpm vs power output to make sure it's would still have sufficient out put, or possibly change pullys to gear it up a bit. Good idea.
 
Made a little more progress last night. The biggest issue I'm running into is the weather. Been dodging thunderstorms almost every other day since last week. It was really nice out for a few hours last night. So I was able to get the front jack welded to the frame, and start on the center stabilizer.

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I managed to get a few of the 3" angle gussets welded in as well. Once the frame is fully supported I'm going to move on to straightening and extending the track. There is a small "hump" at one point on the right side, and a minor "belly" on the left side slightly further back. And of course they aren't exactly where I have the track supported by the sub frame. So I'm going to remove the wheels and fenders (had to happen anyway to widen the axle) and weld a couple more tabs in for additional jacking bolts.

Hopefully I'll be able to duck out of work a little early today and get some more work done on the mill. It's supposed to be beautiful out.


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