Log splitter modifications/build.

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SemperFiSawguy

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Location
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I recently purchased, this homemade splitter, for honestly, probably to much money, especially knowing i was going to make major changes, To it. But i figured since im almost done making all my modifications i would post up some before and after photos with my specs pre and post mods. Feel free to chime in your thoughts!!

To start, the good...ish, i purchased this splitter for $5k with a new honda GX390, and new 22gpm US made 2 stage hydraulic pump.
It had an 8 second cycle time, on a 4 inch cylinder, 25 gallon hydraulic tank, 4 way hydraulic adjustable wedge, prince auto cycle valve and a log lift. And all 3/4 work lines with 1.25 suction and 1 inch return. All things i was looking for, and for the price i figured i couldnt build one for that.. and well, i was KIND OF right. 🤣

Lets just say they took some, "shortcuts" that i was NOT going to leave or overlook..

For starters the surplus center 4 inch cylinder with 1/2 inch ports was anemic, leaking and vastly undersized and causing alot of restriction, so that had to go.. It had a 16gpm hydraulic filter on the return which was constantly on the relief since the pump is 22gpm and i figure almost 50gpm hammered back through it every return stroke of the splitting cylinder. And at 3000 psi it was a measly 19 tons. The chasis seemed unfinished, lacking protection or functional storage or accesories. The I beam only has 7/16s flanges and no gussets or boxed supports and i felt if i was increasing the tonnage i had to reinforce them to accommodate my plans for a 6 way wedge and a larger cylinder. It also was mounted on a solid axle with no suspension, or fenders and nothing was painted. It didnt have electric start and had no additional wedges to go with it, there were also several broken welds and shotty material choices made by someone grabbing whatever happened to be in their scrap pile.. And i stopped it with some white oak rounds day one. I knew then i had to put it under the knife.. i will update the finished pictures either tomorrow or saterday once paint drys and i assemble, but shes just about done!! Here is the before pictures as a teaser.. As you can see, seemingly, unfinished.
 

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What is the purpose of the four uprights?
Originall they were just left on the splitter when i bought it, instead of cutting them off, i have used them to add crosstubing/gaurds and hang accesories and other brackets. Very handy in my opinion. Its given me the option for far more features that you wont find even on a pro made splitter.
 

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Well lads, shes pretty much finished up. Im still waiting on my dump valve to arrive so i can finish up some final plumbing components.
My cycle time has been reduced by nearly an entire second and a half. And i have gained 5 tons of force by going from a wimpy 4 inch cylinder with a 1.5 inch rod and 1/2 ports to a 4.5 inch cylinder with a 3 inch rod and 3/4 ports. I'm hoping the dump valve trims another second. Right now with cold fluid im at 8 seconds and a 22gpm pump. Im chasing a 7 second cycle time, i will report my findings once i install the dump valve!!

Here is the finished product though complete with a cupholder and a toolbox. Let me know your thoughts.
We will see how this rugged made cylinder holds up i have an hour meter installed. With the new pump/engine/cylinder. I may add hydraulic outriggers as well since with the new torsion axle its got a considerable amount of bounce to it.
 

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Do you or anyone you know have part numbers for a dump valve? Looking for one that can flow at least 30gpm and has -8 ports minimum. Splitez is out of stock and frankly theyre customer service is lacking. They wouldnt give me theyre actual part number since all they do is resell parker/prince/sauer danfoss/souix parts.
Im gonna go down to my local hydraulic shop tomorrow and see if they can help me anyway. My internet search has resulted in a Sauer danfoss part number but when i search it i come up empty.
 
I ended up settling for a parker CSPH161P-12P its got a 3:1 pilot ratio and a cracking pressure of 175psi. Im hoping my rod side pilot signal pressure is adequate to open the check valve, although everything ive read says it should be. I will measure it tomorrow with a gauge. The valve is rated for 60gpm with 1 inch NPT ports. Im not sure what my blind port return flow is in GPM but i know its gotta be closer to 30gpm with the larger rod diameter on that cylinder. Im hoping it sheds at least a second off the cycle time and helps lower fuel consumption since the engine wont be loaded up on the return stroke trying to force all that volume through the 25gpm auto cycle valve. As long as my port pressure on the rod end port is above 175 psi i should be ok!! Lets hope i guessed correctly.. 😅 I also increased my return Hose ID post filter and it dropped my cold oil return flow by almost 15 PSI!! I guess two 1 inch 90s back to back caused alot of restrictions post filter compared to the 1.5 inch ID hose and 90°s back to the tank.
 

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