Did you crimp the purge line shut?
Husky 350 Continued Issues
- Thread starter Aggie 2012
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Dumb smart phone!
Yes I'm not a fan of those external clutches without the cover on
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Hey Brad
Yes sir I put a piece of small fuel line on it, then installed a screw in the other end, and tucked it away.
It will idle okay for a little bit then start to bounce around, (kinda of cutting in and out), then after 2 minutes of mediocre idle it jumps up to half throttle or more and stays there.
(I let it sit by itself running and after five minutes the saw was running at a an even higher rpm so I killed it) kinda of scared it might lean seize on me or something
What is the purpose of that plate on the outside of the cylinder?
I am very frustrated with this saw.
This will be my 6th time to tear it down all the way to the crank if I decide to scrape and try resealing everything again.
How tight should those bearing/seal combo be on the crank shaft?
These are pretty loose and go on without much effort?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes sir I put a piece of small fuel line on it, then installed a screw in the other end, and tucked it away.
It will idle okay for a little bit then start to bounce around, (kinda of cutting in and out), then after 2 minutes of mediocre idle it jumps up to half throttle or more and stays there.
(I let it sit by itself running and after five minutes the saw was running at a an even higher rpm so I killed it) kinda of scared it might lean seize on me or something
What is the purpose of that plate on the outside of the cylinder?
I am very frustrated with this saw.
This will be my 6th time to tear it down all the way to the crank if I decide to scrape and try resealing everything again.
How tight should those bearing/seal combo be on the crank shaft?
These are pretty loose and go on without much effort?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Got another question regarding this saw.
I have used my own fuel line from the hardware store ($1 per foot).
The I.d looks to be about the same but when the saw is flipped on its side it leaks gas where the grommet part of the oem molded seal use to be.
Does the tank have to stay pressurized and could any of this be linkd to my issues?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have used my own fuel line from the hardware store ($1 per foot).
The I.d looks to be about the same but when the saw is flipped on its side it leaks gas where the grommet part of the oem molded seal use to be.
Does the tank have to stay pressurized and could any of this be linkd to my issues?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had some luck sealing this tank/fuel line exit with Permatex gasket sealer when my Husky 61 did the same thing. It was a band-aid job, but it worked. I let it sit overnight and it's still holding.
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Did you by chance have similar idle issues or just fuel leakage when the saw was turned on its side?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chainganger
ArboristSite Lurker
Buy some ECHO fuel line, put some 2 stroke oil on outside and pull it through the gas line hole built in the gas tank, add filter and no leaks
Use a piece of fuel line on the primer outlet, double it over and zip tie it tight
A screw might let air in, in fact, screws inserted in a line can be used as a tank vent sometimes
Just take pliers and crimp it shut.
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Alright Men
I think I may have found the idle issues (high rpm).
Look at this picture and tell me if that would be enough to cause these issues.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think I may have found the idle issues (high rpm).
Look at this picture and tell me if that would be enough to cause these issues.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Funny thing is that it passes my pressure and vac test
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That'll do it!!! Good catch!
Air leaks drive you bonkers. And, they can get so bad that the saw won't even start. The intake sleeve can be a real bear on these 350's. I like the Stihl hose clamps and I recall that one of our forum members recommended using one on a Husky 350.
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks to all of you for your help here.
And especially Brad
He was kind enough to ship me a brand new carb, air filter, and housing.
--------------------------------
Should I buy the correct impulse line for this saw or can I use some generic fuel line?
(I've got a couple of feet)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And especially Brad
He was kind enough to ship me a brand new carb, air filter, and housing.
--------------------------------
Should I buy the correct impulse line for this saw or can I use some generic fuel line?
(I've got a couple of feet)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not the expert but I think you will be recommended NOT to use regular fuel line for an impulse line. One of the experts will be along shortly to tell you what you should use, cause I don't know.
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Thank ya sawyer
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kinda important to use husky 350 impulse line here, its bent just right to make that corner.
or, a longer piece of stihl impulse line from your stihl dealer works. lots of information on my youtube channel, tons of 350 stuff in there...and yes, that stupid impulse line will mess you up every time. also, gotta make sure that when you install the intake boot, it doesn't crimp or impinge on the impulse nipple. often those nipples that stick into that hole in the intake are crimped during install, causing an air leak.
again, tons of 350 stuff on my youtube channel...
look for the fuel line vids and you'll come up with the part # for the stihl impulse line. that said, this is a good spot to use the oem impulse line.
call BOB - spike60 at Ashokan Turf and Timber in NY for parts
or, a longer piece of stihl impulse line from your stihl dealer works. lots of information on my youtube channel, tons of 350 stuff in there...and yes, that stupid impulse line will mess you up every time. also, gotta make sure that when you install the intake boot, it doesn't crimp or impinge on the impulse nipple. often those nipples that stick into that hole in the intake are crimped during install, causing an air leak.
again, tons of 350 stuff on my youtube channel...
look for the fuel line vids and you'll come up with the part # for the stihl impulse line. that said, this is a good spot to use the oem impulse line.
call BOB - spike60 at Ashokan Turf and Timber in NY for parts
I like to use the clamp from a 390XP.
You're quite welcome. Definitely use the OEM impulse hose. Trying to use something else will kink on you.
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Appreciate it gents. I will let y'all know how she runs once I get that impulse hose in. And I will certainly check out those 350 videos you've got posted there Matyo and try to educate myself (I'm much more of a visual learner so this is perfect)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Aggie 2012
ArboristSite Operative
Good mornin gents,
Just wanted to say thanks for everyone's help here on this 350. I ended up putting a new oem impulse line on along with Brads 346 carb and intake boot. To say the least she runs like a dream. (I'd be willing to run it sided by side with the 026 I've got)
Last question for y'all on this project.
I have a bar stud that's stripped. Can I remove and install through the oil tank or will a disassembly be required to fix this issue?
After reading some and watching YouTube videos I'm thinking I can just drive it into the tank and pull it out with a magnet but how would I re install the new one?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just wanted to say thanks for everyone's help here on this 350. I ended up putting a new oem impulse line on along with Brads 346 carb and intake boot. To say the least she runs like a dream. (I'd be willing to run it sided by side with the 026 I've got)
Last question for y'all on this project.
I have a bar stud that's stripped. Can I remove and install through the oil tank or will a disassembly be required to fix this issue?
After reading some and watching YouTube videos I'm thinking I can just drive it into the tank and pull it out with a magnet but how would I re install the new one?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
