Husky 372xp or Stihl ms441

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Woodie,

Here ya go,



Joat

All i get is a little white square with a wee mountain
 
Hope it helps

I'm afraid it doesn't. Tommy's claim was for the first half of 2008, and that ends in 2007.

Also, it doesn't cite any kind of source, or audit firm, or audit opinion. It's merely a picture. Do you have something like that for the first half of 2008, including a link where it can be found?

Thanks Joat,
Woodie


.
 
I'm afraid it doesn't. Tommy's claim was for the first half of 2008, and that ends in 2007.

Also, it doesn't cite any kind of source, or audit firm, or audit opinion. It's merely a picture. Do you have something like that for the first half of 2008, including a link where it can be found?

Thanks Joat,
Woodie


.

Well, Woodie, since you don't care about 2007, why do care for a reference or an audit firm verification?

Oh, I used a search engine and found the 2007 report on Stihl's web site in all of 10 seconds. They don't have any 2008 info on their site that I could find. So, anything you do uncover won't have your silly request for "backup".

Now, this is a chainsaw site, and you're wanting an auditor to verify the very latest numbers for 1st half 2008 Stihl chainsaw sales? :dizzy:

I'll give you credit for trying, :buttkick:

Joat
 
Got a little time here before my daughter goes to her 1st day of kindergarten and off to work I go.
_ As my saws get A few hours [alot] on them I like to turn the high & low screws all the way in and then back them off to roughly where they should be [ 1 turn, 3/4 turn] you have to admit Tzed that witness mark comes in handy. Then with both hands on saw WOT, if no bog from the bottom then your low is fine. Now I can set my H , listen for that barely audible breaktone ,fine line here. Not smooth screaming and not breaking a bit . Let off, and try the wot again ,if no bog saw should be fine.
_ Yeah the Elastostart would be a good idea when they get rid of the offset T and go to a even T design.
_ On the 2 million tree claim I stand by what I say, and I didn't take a beating , re read that thread . If I wasn't in my busy tree season that thread would have been alot shorter , like this one too.
_ I tried to explain that square handle thing and you don't get it. Figuring your a machinist I thought you might under stand some physics. Here try this : Leverage. You Moron.


LOL!!! OK now we are both morons...:clap:


Witness mark helps when making the rough adjustment, But it is stihl better for 87% of the population to have the screws on the right side...and you are the only one I know of that tunes a saw the way you do. No lesson needed from you on how to tune a two-stroke, as I have plenty of experience tuning two-strokes that cost in excess of $15,000. The real way to do it is by holding the saw at WOT and leaning the mixture to the two-four break, then back a slight amount. Do a search on this site and you will see the light.

The offset is in the Elastostart handle to even the force in the fingers. My E-start handles never move...you must not have enough preload in your rewind spring...limp as it were...BTW, please provide figures on the weight difference between the standard handle and the Elastostart handle since you claim it is a significant difference.

Are you up to 3 million trees yet?

I can assure you I understand physics...even have a college transcript to prove it. Your handle argument is flawed. A handle that is meant to be held in only one way might be oval or approach square (think Colt 1911 grip), but a handle that must be held in many positions must be more rounded, as the Stihl rear handle is shaped. No one needs more leverage on a handle than a weightlifter, hundreds of pounds in each hand. The grip area on a weight bar is round.

You started this thing digging yourself into a hole with a shovel...but now you are using a backhoe and it is getting bad. Good luck!!!

Happy sawing!!!:)
 

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