Husky 394 Hot Saw

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arbor accoster

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Hey guys I'm new to the site, but have been around saws my whole life. I'm 33 and have been running my fathers Homelite 550 since I was 16. Just this Jan. I bought a 394 and it is a major improvement. But it seems I have started a war with my woodcutting buds. This saw cuts like a rabid mink on speed, but I want more. It has 2 pull compression of 165lbs. Is it as good as it gets or can I get more with a high top slug and cyl mods. Also is dual porting the muffler ok or should I quit messing around and get an expanion chamber made. Any help from you pros would be appreciated. Thanks. Arbor Accoster. P.S. NO HOLDS BARRED!
 
No holds barred will result in a crazy fast saw that cannot be used for work, and will need a rebuild every tank or less.

If you want to keep it usable, open the muffler, and retune. Then get in there and polish the intake and exhaust to make it as smooth as possible (remove casting flash), then play with the porting if your up to it. Some saws allow you to remove the jug gasket allowing a slightly higher compression ratio.

I think you want to keep a woods saw, not make a race saw. I have an 088 by Kevin Dunn that will do a high 9 second cut in 24" hardwood. Its a WORK saw, not a race.
 
Lumberjack said:
Some saws allow you to remove the jug gasket allowing a slightly higher compression ratio.
Isn't there a high risk for an air leak when doing this? Also, won't removing the gasket change your port timing, albeit a small amount?
 
Yes and yes. I am not a saw builder, but I have a common knowledge.

The port timing, yes it would change slightly as well. All of my saws have the gasket. If i wanted to bump compression I would mill a little off the case.
 
I would mill the bottom of the jug not the case. If you lower the jug .020 you would need to raise the ex. port and transfer .020. Don't set the squish cleance tighter than .020. Are the piston could hit the top of the jug.

Ricky
 
True, I was thinknig about the ears getting thin. Wouldnt the ammount you milled have alot more variables than just a blanket .020"?
 
I would send it out the EHP and let him work his magic. Somethings are better left for people who know what there doing. Of course Ricki does also.
 
Guys is there not an after market piston and crank combo to stroke it or should I just buy a 3120 or 090 or build my own saw out of a 250cc Honda bike without trans?
 
for a stroker saw, you aint gonna buy that. thats something you create each time.. total one off job. and you REALLY need to know what your asking for when you seriously want that.. you better know how to run a hotsaw when you get into custom cranks and such.. just like a dragster.. that sucker is going to be easy to destroy if you dont run it the way it demands.

start with the BASICS.. and i mean it.. ported stock muffler.. change the port timing.. mod the piston.. and in my opinion if you want to be truly competitive in any way.. HAVE AN EXPERIANCED BUILDER DO IT :) one wrong move and that saw can end up in the trash can! if you want to practice.. GET A JUNKER THAT STILL RUNS.. do not jump in and risk a fine saw.
 
Ill start with little things @ first like which who made the better carb for the 394. Tillotson or Walbro? Mine is a Walbro and is there anything better like Zama or am I limited to certain carbs. After all an engine is just an air pump. The more you get in and the faster you get it out the more hp
 
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until the 'air pump' can't take anymore and breaks. Any removal of material-either from the case or jug will result in a port timing change. You could compensate by modding the piston fairly easily. The piston is a bit less expensive if ya screw up (removing too much material).

Just like what dedcow stated, start with the exhaust mod...it makes a fairly good difference. I have both of my mid-sized saws modded (exhaust that is) and what a difference that made. I can only imagine that on a larger saw that it's gonna make a bigger difference. I also changed out the stock air filter for an after market one that allows more air to the carb. BIG difference. If you don't like the way the saw cuts after that or not too impressed with those mods after trying them, then start taking it a part and do the porting.
 
What do you want to run this saw in? GTG? Competition? Playtime? And does the saw still need to be a work saw? And of course how much do you want to spend? There are a few good used hotsaws that can be had for a reasonable amount. ($1000-$1500) range. There are guys who will mod your saw for a woods saw for 200-300 depending on a few things.
 
arbor accoster said:
will a 3120 muffler fit a 394 and would it make much difference?
Not to my knowledge it wont. you're better off letting a pro builder do the work for you. Ask dean(kilckitsacket), EHP, Dozerdan, or someone about building you a woods saw.
 
I'm fairly new to this forum..and a bit of a hotrodder myself..& I've seen the open class saws running in competitions on sky, but the mods you guys go to seem pretty extreme..but then you race lawn mowers in the USA..what else can I say..nothings sacred..my Jon2077 ported and pepped up to liven it up..I've seen that V8 chainsaw in Canada - unbelievable..& theres the cost...I'm in awe
 
The KISS method is where I started to modify my saw. I put in a 1 step hotter plug. Started using 100LL from the airport. Took my stock muffler face cover that previously had 4 - 1/4" diameter holes and milled it WAY out. It now has a 1.4" x 1.6" opening. Reset the carb. It feels like about 20% more power. Ear plugs are a must. Start cheap, have fun.
 
Or you could get a small saw to kick all your buds bigger saws. Here's a piped 346 EHP.
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