Husky 51 Flywheel Differences?

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bpankratz

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Hey guys, been a while since I was in here but I'm getting the saws up and running for 2020.
Anyhow I had a broken starter pawl on my Husky 51/55 conversion. Went to the local Husky shop. They told me to run to the shed and grab a used flywheel, no charge! Great!

Anyhow I go to put the new flywheel on, (the pawls are riveted on) but when I go to pull the old flywheel I see the pawls are screwed in. The flywheel with the rivets also seems to be lighter (haven't weighed for confirmation). Are there any advantages or disadvantages to either flywheel other than the way the pawls attach?
Thank's in advance!
 
Never seen a 50 or 51 flywheel with screws for the pawls.
Is it otherwise identical to the replacement? In particular, does it the same number of keyways (1 or 2)
Did you pull it off a 50/51 or was it loose? The 45 and Partner 450 used a flywheel which is dimensionally identical but the magnet polarity is reversed (Phelon ignition vs Electrolux/Marelli).
 
I have seen several different types of flywheel for the 50, one with two keyways, and one with a wider keyway than the others. As long as the pawls style match I think it should be okay, a bit heavier won't matter much. Just make sure the keyways are in the same position, otherwise you will have to run without a key.
 
This one was pulled right off the saw. I don't know if it is original or not but its been on there as long as I have owned the saw.
 
I have seen several different types of flywheel for the 50, one with two keyways, and one with a wider keyway than the others. As long as the pawls style match I think it should be okay, a bit heavier won't matter much. Just make sure the keyways are in the same position, otherwise you will have to run without a key.
Thanks, I will run the one with the replacable pawls, that way I can replace them in the future if need be.

While you guys are here, any common leak points for these things? Ive got an oil leak coming out of this thing, but havent had time to investigate yet.
 
Is the oil leaking from the oiler hole? It's common for a lot of saws to "pump" oil over time out of the oiler hole due to changes in atmospheric pressure. Several of mine are able to saturate a paper towel set underneath them after a month or two. The 50's are generous in their bar oiling, so it could also be residual oil from the bar running back and dripping down. If it leaks out half a tank of oil in a couple of weeks then there is cause for concern, otherwise a bit over time is normal.
 
Another common oil leak on these saws is the rubber/plastic part that is behind the oil pump. It goes into the oil tank has the strainer on it and seals off a little square hole. It common for this to shrink and oil leak out. Typically a little sealant will fix the problem. If not when you install a new part throw some sealant on it seems to keep it happening to began with.
 
Awesome thanks for the replies guys. I have ordered a new vent, and the rubber/plastic portions of the oiler. Ill get replacing everything and adding some RTV to there as well. I think this will solve it (unless its the case halves, in which case..... ****....)
 

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