Husky 61 big bore - is this too much slop in piston bearing?

[wood man]

Thanks for the input and the pictures, my particular model has this port/vent on the top of the case and not the side. Near the front left side underneath the muffler (as viewed while cutting). Would that be the same type of vent line...if so the line would be vertical instead of horizontal.

They fit the hole on the top or side for the breather tube, which is down to the makers at the time of design, both ways work.

You can get pipes with bends, angles etc, so do not think the pipe I showed you is the same inside your model, as I was only trying to show you more information to for you to make a more informed choice your end.
Do you think it pours oil out, or is it just a dribble when running?
The fact the pipe is still seen, means it is still at least mostly seated in the hole.

 

[Drillerman]

They fit the hole on the top or side for the breather tube, which is down to the makers at the time of design, both ways work.

You can get pipes with bends, angles etc, so do not think the pipe I showed you is the same inside your model, as I was only trying to show you more information to for you to make a more informed choice your end.
Do you think it pours oil out, or is it just a dribble when running?
The fact the pipe is still seen, means it is still at least mostly seated in the hole.

My friend says it leaks oil when it sits for a while, but I was not sure if it was just not cleaned before he put it away. Just looking over possible leak areas. It also has the same location as my 266 vent, but the 266 has a different vent I think(picture below). I really need to play with the saw a little more, I never have run the saw, heck a husky for that matter. I'm usually behind a Stihl, but looking forward to trying the Husqvarna. Now that I have it all cleaned up, hopefully I can pinpoint the "leak" he was talking about. Just need to get the spacers machined and put the rest of the saw together. Thanks again for your help.

 

[cookies]

I would source a oem bearing for the added load spread and the simple fact it is narrower possibly allowing unwanted piston cocking under load. I refuse to use aftermarket wrist pin bearings, they seem to always have half the needle bearings and or a different width. Sawzilla has switched stuff up, their "premium" pistons and cylinders are regular nic coated hyway cylinder kits

 

[Drillerman]

I would source a oem bearing for the added load spread and the simple fact it is narrower possibly allowing unwanted piston cocking under load. I refuse to use aftermarket wrist pin bearings, they seem to always have half the needle bearings and or a different width. Sawzilla has switched stuff up, their "premium" pistons and cylinders are regular nic coated hyway cylinder kits

I'm definitely considering it, or maybe reuse the original 61 bearing if it looks and feels good like Eric said earlier. Where would you recommend getting OEM husky parts online?

 

[cookies]

I'm definitely considering it, or maybe reuse the original 61 bearing if it looks and feels good like Eric said earlier. Where would you recommend getting OEM husky parts online?

If the original looks good I'd run it, ebay or a local husky dealer for oem parts

 

[Drillerman]

Had a little time before a meeting this evening to chuck up literally a chunk of brass to start turning the spacers. Sadly I ran out of time b/c I don't have a 12mm drill bit, so I will have to underdrill and then turn it to size with a boring bar. Once turned to proper size, I will part then off to the proper width to center the connecting rod. Brass is so much fun to machine...

I'll upload some pics when I get them installed. Thanks to everyone who has helped along the way!

 

[wood man]

It also has the same location as my 266 vent, but the 266 has a different vent I think(picture below).

It does not blow up on screen very good, but from what I see, is lots of holes, in either a plastic or rubber plug.
This is also a breather hole.
Just remember, if no breather hole, or if blocked, no oil can come out. Same as a petrol/gas tanks, all need breathers.

If you pull out air without air getting back in you suck the thing into itself, or collapse it.
No need for a science lesson on physics, but all reading this know this basic fact of our planet and how it works.
For something to come out, something has to go in to fill the space, as in this case air fills the void of oil.

So a little leakage is okay and means the internal compartment inside is venting.

Run the saws and after a full tank or so, it may show a little seepage, this will be fine.
All saws will leak oil as is the nature of gravity.
The oil on the chain and bar will find its way to earth always, so remember the chain and bar have oil on them when you switch off the saw.
This oil will always run down to earth, pulled down by the force of gravity to the centre of the earth.

Atmospheric pressure will also enter the breather hole, and will also push out oil at the other end sometimes, so will show up as what people call a leak, but is normal.
New parts, oil pumps, pipes etc are better suited to stopping this happening so fast.

Some saws have this happen; some saws do not, but just know it does not matter if only a little dribble over time.

This is why you do not leave a powersaw over time with oil in it without putting the saw in a place that the oil can seep out and be captured.

Same with some saws over years will start to seep petrol/gas, again, climate changes, air pressure all come into force and play over time, and all through the different seasons.

Don't be too bothered with a little seepage is what I am saying as this is natural for power-saws across the world as they are partially gravity fed systems, and why 2-stroke engines can run any way, upside down etc...

Newer model saws are better at not leaking so much, but older saws may have this going on, it is not a problem once you know it is not really a leak, but natural venting with mother earth and different air pressures.

 

[wood man]

I'll upload some pics when I get them installed. Thanks to everyone who has helped along the way!

I joined this site because of the amount of excellent images and tutorials and experience of others in here from a world of people in the know, and spend hours simply reading through posts on this site.

 

[wood man]

Drillerman, flsuh out the oil compartment.
I use a strong kitchen degreaser liquid that does not harm paint or any surfaces it touches, pipes, rubbers etc, but you can use petrol/gas also.
This will flush out all old oil, oil stains and all the crude and gunge that may be sitting in the oil tank.
It will also flush out the oil filter, the oil pipes all at one time for you.
Do it with the bar and chain off.
Fill the tank half full, rattle it around to swirl the fuel around and start to disolve and break up any contaiminates in the tank.
You are looking for the flush fuel to come out of the chain/bar side, which means nice and clean right through.
Then swirl oil around it, a little, then tip it out, and then fill it and run the saw on idle until the oil starts to feed through the pump and start coming out the oil hole that feeds the bar.

I do not recommend petrol/gas, but I know others do it this way and I have never heard of anyone ruining the oil pumps to date, but no doubt someone will say different.

I will actually post a picture of the product I use, as it is sold world-wide, and people will not know it beats gunk as has no after smell and does not leave things stinking.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

If all else fails instal one of the older vented oil caps And plug that hole.
or, install a 266 breather.

 

[wood man]

This is available all across the middle western countries, and maybe in the US, or somthing as good as.
IT only costs 99p, and sometimes comes in 1L bottles, it is either pink or yellow in colour.
It is making its way into most supermarkets now, in the cleaning or overn sections of supermarkets etc.

I have known about this product for over 10 years now, and no-one else I have ever spoken too knows about it for oil and grease in the entire mechanical trades out there.
It will clean grubby oil and hand marks from plugs, sockets, walls, paint-work, the list is endless.
Also know makers put scare labels on to cover themselves in case of a law suit, so do not read too much into the label, as 10 years later, I am still not poisoned or any funny things happening.
But I do sometimes use latex gloves when using it, but not always.
It washes off with just plain water, and leaves everything clean and fresh.

 

[Drillerman]

No more slop! Going to finish putting the rest of the saw together and flush the tank out. Hopefully she runs smoothly.

 

[Cantdog]

Looks good..... but I would add one more bit of info. The original Jonsereds thrust washers had relief grooves in the inner faces to allow lubricant to enter and leave the bearing area through the grooves and the hole in the con rod end freely.

 

[Drillerman]

Looks good..... but I would add one more bit of info. The original Jonsereds thrust washers had relief grooves in the inner faces to allow lubricant to enter and leave the bearing area through the grooves and the hole in the con rod end freely.

That's an interesting thought/design. I wonder how thick their washers were, because I'm a little leery to grind grooves into the face of a washer that is only 0.040" thick. I could possibly put a couple notches on the i.d. of the spacer in case it gets "stuck " to the conrod and not the piston shoulder. This should allow the bearings to lubricate sideways along the wrist pin as well as the hole in the conrod.

 

[Chevboy0167]

 

[Drillerman]

View attachment 1145662 View attachment 1145663 View attachment 1145672

Looks like I might be pulling the jug off again... Thanks for the pictures.

 

[Drillerman]

The final product, I hope! What a journey, then while trying to start the saw, the pull rope broke. Go figure. I guess the rope didn't like the big bore job or the new jug with more compression. Hopefully tomorrow I can take it outside and see if I can get it to tune. Don't want to stink up the shop and I don't think the neighbors will appreciate a two stoke firing up in the middle of the night. I'm trying an aftermarket Proline carb so fingers crossed that it works. If not I will rob/rebuild my 266 carb and try it.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

My only question with removing all the side/side play is what if the crank isn't exactly centered? I think I'd want at least .010.
You don't want any sort of binding. Pull the plug and make sure everything rotates smoothly before firing it up.

I'm putting a 268 together at the moment. Called it quits for the night

 

[Cantdog]

My only question with removing all the side/side play is what if the crank isn't exactly centered? I think I'd want at least .010.
You don't want any sort of binding. Pull the plug and make sure everything rotates smoothly before firing it up.

I'm putting a 268 together at the moment. Called it quits for the night View attachment 1146269

That 268 is looking good!

And yes, as I said in post #13, you should be looking for a running clearance of 0.008-0.012" side to side. A little more is OK but I would not go less.

 

[Drillerman]

My only question with removing all the side/side play is what if the crank isn't exactly centered? I think I'd want at least .010.
You don't want any sort of binding. Pull the plug and make sure everything rotates smoothly before firing it up.

I'm putting a 268 together at the moment. Called it quits for the night View attachment 1146269

I'm with Cantdog, nice 268! And as he said, I didn't take all the play out, I still have about 0.012-0.015, much better than the 0.080+ before the spacers. It's now pretty much like the OEM clearance. Hopefully going to fire it up in a couple hours.