Husqvarna 350 2000 year model starts then dies...

[2scars]

Hello folks,

I have a new to me Husky 350 that a friend gave me to play with. He said it was straight gassed by a neighbor and locked up. He then went and bought a Stihl and put this one in the shed for who knows how long. I grabbed it and pulled the muffler and saw no scoring, pulled it apart before ordering anything and didn't any scoring anywhere on the piston/cylinder. I bought a carb rebuild kit for the Walbro HDA that was in it and did my best to reset the factory H and L settings. When I went to fill it up with all the required juices, I noticed that it had a leak coming from where the tank/handle meets the case. Just wanting to give it a pull or two I did just that in with in 10 pulls it sprang to life...for about 10 seconds and then died out. It wouldn't immediately start back up. I had to give it a minute and then within a couple pulls it fires back up. Another thing that struck me as worth remembering was that the decompression valve didn't pop out immediately and it feels a little gummy.

I have read a fair bit since then on forums and such, and it seems that the fuel line is a common issue with these saws, would this line be so badly cracked/broken that it would spill gas and then only suck up a little gas and then the hole in the line would let the motor starve? I am getting ready to place an order for some things to remedy this situation, from Baileys, and wanted to know if I was on the right track? I guess if nothing else it would be a good deal of regular type maintenance. I also added a new plug to the saw when I rebuilt the carb.

I would love a little insight. Thanks in advance.

Brandon

 

[jltrent]

Needs a new fuel line.

 

[jltrent]

Hello folks,

I have a new to me Husky 350 that a friend gave me to play with. He said it was straight gassed by a neighbor and locked up. He then went and bought a Stihl and put this one in the shed for who knows how long. I grabbed it and pulled the muffler and saw no scoring, pulled it apart before ordering anything and didn't any scoring anywhere on the piston/cylinder. I bought a carb rebuild kit for the Walbro HDA that was in it and did my best to reset the factory H and L settings. When I went to fill it up with all the required juices, I noticed that it had a leak coming from where the tank/handle meets the case. Just wanting to give it a pull or two I did just that in with in 10 pulls it sprang to life...for about 10 seconds and then died out. It wouldn't immediately start back up. I had to give it a minute and then within a couple pulls it fires back up. Another thing that struck me as worth remembering was that the decompression valve didn't pop out immediately and it feels a little gummy.

I have read a fair bit since then on forums and such, and it seems that the fuel line is a common issue with these saws, would this line be so badly cracked/broken that it would spill gas and then only suck up a little gas and then the hole in the line would let the motor starve? I am getting ready to place an order for some things to remedy this situation, from Baileys, and wanted to know if I was on the right track? I guess if nothing else it would be a good deal of regular type maintenance. I also added a new plug to the saw when I rebuilt the carb.

I would love a little insight. Thanks in advance.

Brandon

It is sucking air from a hole in the fuel line between the tank and handle also leaking. Replace the fuel line and that should fix it.

 

[2scars]

Just been ordered!! And new filter and a full chisel chain to try, just because it was on sale and shipping is what it is. Anyone ever use a Raisman full chisel chain?

 

[Huskitoter]

Nice find. I have a later model that's been a very good saw. Fuel lines are like filters and spark plugs - just one of those things you have to replace. Right next to where the fuel line enters the tank you will see the tank vent. That fell out of mine one time. Of course I didn't notice it until I had the saw over my head cutting a limb.

Others have mentioned that the plastic clamp around the intake boot on those earlier models are prone to leaking. You may want to replace it with the metal clamp. The later model is much stronger with a muffer mod and base gasket delete. Easy saw to work on and many upgrade options, including a 346xp cylinder kit.

Narrow kerf bar/chain is hard to beat on these saws for general duty.