Husqvarna 353 Cylinder/Piston into a 350

[buckwheat12n]

I have a Husqvarna 350 with a scored piston and cylinder. I've read in some other threads that the 353 piston/cylinder will bolt onto the 350. Has anyone actually done this and is this just a straight bolt on, will any carb adjustment need to be made?

 

[SawTroll]

I have a Husqvarna 350 with a scored piston and cylinder. I've read in some other threads that the 353 piston/cylinder will bolt onto the 350. Has anyone actually done this and is this just a straight bolt on, will any carb adjustment need to be made?

How old is that 350 - and is it a 49 or an EPA 52cc one?

The 52cc one use the same cylinder as the 353, but a different piston.

Anyway, the 353 P/C is a streight bolt on - and so is the 346xp ones (new and old), but that may compromize the longevity of the bottom end.

 

[buckwheat12n]

How old is that 350 - and is it a 49 or an EPA 52cc one?

The 52cc one use the same cylinder as the 353, but a different piston.

Anyway, the 353 P/C is a streight bolt on - and so is the 346xp ones (new and old), but that may compromize the longevity of the bottom end.

The saw is a 2006. Would there be some sort of labeling stating EPA on the saw if it were infact an EPA model?

Also, are you saying that just the 346xp P/C may compromise bottom end longevity or either of the two (353 or 346xp) P/C kits would?

I'm debating buying a new Cylinder kit for it or possibly selling it for parts and getting another saw. The price for a 350 Cylinder kit almost isn't worth keeping the saw for.

 

[1rockinacman]

The price for a 350 Cylinder kit almost isn't worth keeping the saw for.[/QUOTE]

I think you just answered your question.

 

[joecool85]

The saw is a 2006. Would there be some sort of labeling stating EPA on the saw if it were infact an EPA model?

Also, are you saying that just the 346xp P/C may compromise bottom end longevity or either of the two (353 or 346xp) P/C kits would?

I'm debating buying a new Cylinder kit for it or possibly selling it for parts and getting another saw. The price for a 350 Cylinder kit almost isn't worth keeping the saw for.

If you want the saw gone, I'll take it off your hands, I'll pay shipping.

 

[NuConcepts]

hey i sent you a pm if worse comes to worse

 

[BIGBORE577]

I picked up a like new 350 EPA version with a scored P&C. It appears the newbie owner didn't understand the necessity of oil in his mix or just grabbed the wrong jug. Irregardless, since I had nothing in the saw, I took a gamble. I was able to easily save the cylinder and put in an aftermarket Golf 353 piston. Runs like a champ, at least for now, it is a Husky you know.
All kidding aside, Troll has a point in regards to the longevity of the bottom end due to the higher compression piston instead of the dished EPA version. Since I only have about $35.00 in the saw, I've been trying to see how it holds up to some abuse. I've run about 8 tanks through in in the past 5 weeks, burying the 16" bar in Oak most of the time. This is all I could handle of a small CC saw in this manner without picking up something a little bigger. I keep the chain sharp as not to be to abusive to the little bugger. It's holding together fine and running especially well thus far for, what it is. Time will tell. I've then switched to the 090 that I put a new piston and rings in to break it in. Actually, more like break me up!:censored: Bucking big oak for several hours at a time sure makes me realize how old I'm getting real quick. Just go home and lick my wounds when I get done. The worse part, is I have to buy all new shirts, all the old one's sleeves are too short.

 

[SawTroll]

The saw is a 2006. Would there be some sort of labeling stating EPA on the saw if it were infact an EPA model?

Also, are you saying that just the 346xp P/C may compromise bottom end longevity or either of the two (353 or 346xp) P/C kits would?

I'm debating buying a new Cylinder kit for it or possibly selling it for parts and getting another saw. The price for a 350 Cylinder kit almost isn't worth keeping the saw for.

The 50cc 346xp kit actually is cheaper than the 350 one - for some odd reason, but that is also the one most likely to "overtax" the bottom end of the saw.
The longevity issue is not a known fact - just an assumpion based on the fact that the 350 has a plastic case, and the added stress from that engine.....

I am pretty sure a 350 sold in 2006 in the US is a 52cc one.
If you can save the cylinder (lots of treads on that here), just put a 353 piston in it, and you gain a tad of compression and power vs the original.

Parting it out may be the best idea anyway......

Edit; ......and buy a NE346xp to replace it, and then some.

 

[trimmmed]

I have a Husqvarna 350 with a scored piston and cylinder. I've read in some other threads that the 353 piston/cylinder will bolt onto the 350. Has anyone actually done this and is this just a straight bolt on, will any carb adjustment need to be made?

I agree with Troll saying you might be better just to part it out.

 

[buckwheat12n]

OK, thanks. for the info. Unfortunately the cylinder looks shot. Thinking about it more I most likely will just part it out and get a new saw.

 

[Jim Mesthene]

I've read lots of comments about the 350's plastic case, but I haven't read about a lot of Bottom End failures.
Are there a lot of stories of failed 350 Cases and Main Bearings, and I haven't been reading carefully enough to see them? Or is there simply a lot of mistrust of the Plastic cases?

 

[SawTroll]

I've read lots of comments about the 350's plastic case, but I haven't read about a lot of Bottom End failures.
Are there a lot of stories of failed 350 Cases and Main Bearings, and I haven't been reading carefully enough to see them? Or is there simply a lot of mistrust of the Plastic cases?

No there isn't - can't remember a single one, in fact...........:jawdrop:

 

[Goicoechea]

What you have to decide is if you can recover enough value by parting it out to fund a high enough percentage of a new saw. If there isn't much value in the parted out saw then you may as well GO FOR IT. If the saw is already low value you can gain a lot of experience by throwing the new piston and cylinder on it and you get the chance to prove all the plastic case nay sayers wrong.

Good luck on the project.

 

[buckwheat12n]

Went to the local dealer today and ordered a Husky 353. I've spent the last few day's scouring all the posts I could find on this forum and decided that would probably be the best saw for me to purchase (in my price range), for the amount of firewood I cut (about 6-8 cords per year). I plan on trying to get what I can from the 350 on ebay and put it toward the 353.

 

[Freakingstang]

Cool on the new saw.

I work out by summit when I am home.


Now, I have a problem with a question in your original post....will there be any carb adjments...


There will be carb adjustments from cold to warm on the same saw, let alone a saw that has had a higher compression piston put in it.


Was your dead 350 a result in a lean siezure? If so, and it was set up to cut in our summer months and then you cut this winter with it, you probably toasted it....

 

[buckwheat12n]

To be honest, I'm not sure what caused the piston to seize. I had used the saw all day without a problem and then lent it to my brother that same day. I had about a quarter tank of gas in it and he swears he didn't add any gas to the saw. He just had a 10" tree to take out at then end of his drive. Well I get the call that he was using the saw and all of the sudden it just quit running and he couldn't get the pull start to work. That's all I know. It was about 50 degrees out so it wasn't like it was 20 below zero. I run the saw from april to october, I never have ran it in the dead of winter. I wouldn't think that would be such a drastic temperature change to burn up a piston.

 

[SawTroll]

To be honest, I'm not sure what caused the piston to seize. I had used the saw all day without a problem and then lent it to my brother that same day. I had about a quarter tank of gas in it and he swears he didn't add any gas to the saw. He just had a 10" tree to take out at then end of his drive. Well I get the call that he was using the saw and all of the sudden it just quit running and he couldn't get the pull start to work. That's all I know. It was about 50 degrees out so it wasn't like it was 20 below zero. I run the saw from april to october, I never have ran it in the dead of winter. I wouldn't think that would be such a drastic temperature change to burn up a piston.

Maybe the mix wasn't shaken enough, so what remained on the tank had very little oil in it.......

...just a suggestion, as to what went wrong.....