Chainsaw Jim
CJ Saws, LLC
The kit numbers are: K10-HDC for the major kit.... D10-HDC for the minor kit with only gaskets. In your case you only need the minor kit and you should find one on eBay for around $6.
Husqvarna 44 Tuning help
- Thread starter rjm240
- Start date
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The kit numbers are: K10-HDC for the major kit.... D10-HDC for the minor kit with only gaskets. In your case you only need the minor kit and you should find one on eBay for around $6.
rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
The carb kit came in the mail today and was installed. I wasn't able to get the saw into any wood but I do not believe it fixed the tuning issue. Here is what happened.
I installed the kit and went outside to pull the cord. About pull #4 it fired with choke. I pushed in the choke and on pull 5 it fired right up on fast idle. Knocked the fast idle off and it died. I checked the L, and it was 1 turn out. I moved it to 1.5 turns out and tried again. Now it idled. I let it sit a few minutes and warm up.
I then reved it up. The saw farted a nice long 4 stroking grunt. I turned the H in a tiny bit and tired again. It was on the verge of 2 stoking so I put it back where it was. I said good enough until it gets into wood, back to the L.
I let the saw idle and it died. Tried a few more times, it runs but only when I give it a little throttle, so I turned up the idle screw to keep it running. Now I start slowing turning the L out to see if it needs more fuel, dies. Ok. start it back up, turn it in slowly until it speeds up to max rpm. I end up putting it about 1.25 turns out. The idle is still "inconsistent." Sometimes when I rev up the saw and go to idle it is idling well enough to keep the chain spinning, remember i kicked up the idle speed, and sometimes it goes back to idle and wants to die or runs slowly.
What is next? fuel lines? I tried to open the gas gap to listen for venting, I didn't hear anything and it ran the same after being opened. I have not checked compression, any chance the engine is just worn out? My next post will be a photo of the saw all cleaned up.
I installed the kit and went outside to pull the cord. About pull #4 it fired with choke. I pushed in the choke and on pull 5 it fired right up on fast idle. Knocked the fast idle off and it died. I checked the L, and it was 1 turn out. I moved it to 1.5 turns out and tried again. Now it idled. I let it sit a few minutes and warm up.
I then reved it up. The saw farted a nice long 4 stroking grunt. I turned the H in a tiny bit and tired again. It was on the verge of 2 stoking so I put it back where it was. I said good enough until it gets into wood, back to the L.
I let the saw idle and it died. Tried a few more times, it runs but only when I give it a little throttle, so I turned up the idle screw to keep it running. Now I start slowing turning the L out to see if it needs more fuel, dies. Ok. start it back up, turn it in slowly until it speeds up to max rpm. I end up putting it about 1.25 turns out. The idle is still "inconsistent." Sometimes when I rev up the saw and go to idle it is idling well enough to keep the chain spinning, remember i kicked up the idle speed, and sometimes it goes back to idle and wants to die or runs slowly.
What is next? fuel lines? I tried to open the gas gap to listen for venting, I didn't hear anything and it ran the same after being opened. I have not checked compression, any chance the engine is just worn out? My next post will be a photo of the saw all cleaned up.
Have you swapped in the carb from the other saw that is known to work?
rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
I'd try that next for sure.
This behavior does really remind me of my 242. The root cause on it was that the crank seals had gotten hard and weren't sealing. You can do a vacuum/pressure test to see what is going on. Alternatively, skip the fiddling around and just figure that the seals have served their lifespan and replace them, along with the fuel hose and fuel filter.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I see it exactly the same! All this childish playing around is going to do is burn up a very nice old pair of saws. Either a total rebuild with proper carb cleaning etc. or a dead saw in short order.
Good luck!
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backhoelover
Free service manuals and service tool info
If the seat for the high and low needles is bad it will cause this problem only fix is a new carb
rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
Tried swapping carbs. The saw that won't hold an tune's fuel line was cracked and wouldn't idle with the good carb. Imagine that. I didn't notice it until today when I put the known good carb on it. So it will be a week before I can report back. Why are the fuel lines $17? Gold dipped I imagine.
While at it I put the carb from the poor running saw on the good saw and it tuned right up. So, it isn't the carb.
I appreciate the tips to do the vac/pressure test but I am not sure how. Any good threads that show how to do it with no specialized equipment or vac pump? I did a YouTube search but all the videos looked like someone built clamps to cover intake and exhaust.
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While at it I put the carb from the poor running saw on the good saw and it tuned right up. So, it isn't the carb.
I appreciate the tips to do the vac/pressure test but I am not sure how. Any good threads that show how to do it with no specialized equipment or vac pump? I did a YouTube search but all the videos looked like someone built clamps to cover intake and exhaust.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
You can seal off the exhaust port and the intake port with a patch cut from a plastic ziplock bag. Cut a square big enough to cover the opening and bolt holes for each port. Remove the muffler or carburetor, cut holes for the bolts in the plastic, reassemble everything with the plastic covering the port. Remove the spark plug and fabricate some way to put pressure or vacuum on the cylinder. I had a compression gauge with a removable hose, so I used that with a mityvac to apply vacuum. For pressure, I used an air compressor that I had turned off and bled down to almost nothing to puff a little air into the saw. Spray some soapy water around the crank seals and watch the bubbles grow.
rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks. If the fuel line doesn't fix me up I'll give this a try.
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7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is a simply vid on how to remove the crank seals el cheapo style with tools almost everyone has at home.
replaicing is done with a deep socket from your rachet set with careful tapping to replace in the correct position.
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replaicing is done with a deep socket from your rachet set with careful tapping to replace in the correct position.
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rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
I put the new fuel line in tonight. It holds an idle tune in all angles, has a nice 4 stroke at wot, starts on 1 pull. I haven't been able to tune it in wood but its at a good point. Thanks to all that helped.
What's the best way to get a new oring for the oil cap? Just take the old one e off a bring it to auto part store? Or it it something special?
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What's the best way to get a new oring for the oil cap? Just take the old one e off a bring it to auto part store? Or it it something special?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Yes or a husky dealer can get you the exact fit.
rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks to all that helped. I wanted to put in a final post so future readers can understand what it ended up being.
Both saw are now starting, idling, and cutting great. They even hold a tune.
The white saw: the issue was likely a combination of the bent spring under the diaphragm, the old diaphragm, and the cracked fuel line. The most likely candidate was the fuel line. $17 for the fuel line and $6 for the carb kit both on ebay.
The grey saw must have been a dirty or mis-tuned carb. I didn't actually change any parts on it. I just took it apart cleaned it up and tuned it. The choke was not functioning properly on the saw. The choke on this one also sets the high idle so it was hard to start alone. When I took it apart I made sure it was put back together correctly. Now it starts and runs great. New spark plug <$3
Both saws are now sharp and ready for fire wood season. Thanks again to all that helped.
Both saw are now starting, idling, and cutting great. They even hold a tune.
The white saw: the issue was likely a combination of the bent spring under the diaphragm, the old diaphragm, and the cracked fuel line. The most likely candidate was the fuel line. $17 for the fuel line and $6 for the carb kit both on ebay.
The grey saw must have been a dirty or mis-tuned carb. I didn't actually change any parts on it. I just took it apart cleaned it up and tuned it. The choke was not functioning properly on the saw. The choke on this one also sets the high idle so it was hard to start alone. When I took it apart I made sure it was put back together correctly. Now it starts and runs great. New spark plug <$3
Both saws are now sharp and ready for fire wood season. Thanks again to all that helped.
rjm240
ArboristSite Lurker
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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