Husqvarna 450 vs 550 XP

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I've got the toolless chain tensioner on my 450 and never had a problem with it, in fact, I wish my other saws had the same system. It is so quick and easy to use, no stuffing around looking for a scrench or loosing a nut.

My 450 has been extensively modded and is still going strong. It has been a very reliable little saw that cuts well above its weight. If I'm bucking up a log with one of my bigger saws and run out of fuel or dull the chain, I'll often just grab the 450 and finish off what I'm doing.

Nikko, I know you don't like narrow kerf chain because it isn't offered in full chisel, but I've started using the Carlton H1NK (Woodlandpro 20NK) and it is close to a chisel chain. I don't file it the way Carlton recommends, I now use the Husky roller guide on it to give it a 30 degree top plate angle and 10 degree down angle and it cuts quite fast. It lasts a tank of fuel in the Aussie hardwoods and then I swap out for a fresh chain while I refuel. It should last a lot longer on clean, green Birch. The top plate is flat out to the edge of the side of the cutter, then the outside of the cutter is curved like a semi-chisel, so it kind of a cross between semi and chisel. Most of the damage to the cutter takes place on the side plate where the cutter is having to hammer through the tough wood fibres. I still use the 95VP on dirty wood or where I'm not cross cutting as it will last a bit longer before it looses its edge.
 
Thats nice to hear. It's just that I have tead other posts that those with only one nut for the Bar has had issues staying tight. People have gone through many chains and others are lucky they didn't get hurt. It would be an extra $250.00 to upgrade from the 450 to the 550 XP.
 
Thats nice to hear. It's just that I have tead other posts that those with only one nut for the Bar has had issues staying tight. People have gone through many chains and others are lucky they didn't get hurt. It would be an extra $250.00 to upgrade from the 450 to the 550 XP.
Once one understands how the toolless chain tensioner works its easy. Most often it is loosened too much, or tightened too much, a half turn is all it takes. Worst case toss it in the bush and replace with a regular bar nut.

RTFM, its in there forget what page.
 
Reading such rewiews doesn't tell you much, as you don't know the knowledge level (or agenda) of those that wrote them. They may very well be misleading. ;)


Now, now Sawtroll that sounds like you giving reviews about saws you have never used or held.:laugh:

gg
 
Thats nice to hear. It's just that I have tead other posts that those with only one nut for the Bar has had issues staying tight. People have gone through many chains and others are lucky they didn't get hurt. It would be an extra $250.00 to upgrade from the 450 to the 550 XP.
The 550 IS a better saw, but there is nothing wrong with the 450. It will cut a lot of wood and keep you warm. It's easy to use, and $250 is still in your pocket. Either a single bar nut or the tool less chain adjuster works fine. I'ts just as easy to not tighten two nuts as it is to not tighten one. If someone isn't going to tighten up the bar nuts after they adjust the chain it doesn't matter how many nuts are on the bar.
It seems to me that your biggest concern is a total non issue, and you are reading reviews from people who shouldn't be around sharp things in the first place!
 
20141120_155150.jpg I figure I could pitch in and say the 450 I own has been flawless for three years as my main firewood saw. It's dropped many a dead hickory as hard as kiln dried and never had a loose chain. Even after using top of bar cutting still never loosens up. Had its fair share of descent sized oak with no problems also. Never failed to pop after two or three pulls. Fires up first pull off choke every time. Upgraded to 372 for the bigger stuff, still end up grabbing the 450 if I only take one saw for a quick cut.
 
The 550 is a nice saw, but don't let the homeowner label fool you. I had a husky 350 (homeowner plastic saw) and it was a dead reliable, fantastic saw. I end end up selling it and buying a 346xp. If you keep hanging out with us you get CAD also. (chainsaw acquisition disorder)

As far as starting, learn to listen for that first sputter or pop when you are pulling with the choke on. Then go to fast idle and choke off and it will start in a couple of pulls. If
you do flood you can hold the trigger wide open, choke off, and pull (like 5 to 10 times) and sometimes it will clear out the excess fuel and start.
 
I just purchased a 450 from the dealer. They had the saw assembled gassed up and ready to go. They even started it 3 times for me to prove its ready to go. I got home 90 minutes later to use it and it would not start. Wouldn't even sputter. It acted like it wasn't getting any spark. I tried for 20 minutes. Tried again after waiting a half an hour and I figured I got a lemon. Went back the next day and it fired right up. I have since read some reviews saying that's been a problem. I asked about the 550 XP with the Auto Tune and they told me it's for professionals, and they cut differently than non professionals. I have now read and seen that the 450 only has one nut holding the bar on and its hard too keep the chain tight, in some instances the chain even came off! That sounds like a HUGE safety issue. The 550 XP does have two nuts attaching the bar which seems way safer. I have not cut anything with that 450 yet wondering if I should exchange it for the 550 XP while I still have a chance. But would that 550 XP be problematic for a casual user?


Oh yeah, welcome on board!
 
These are some great reviews about these two saws. Seems like everyone here is a genius.
So I guess the Auto Tune on the 550 XP had not posed many issues or problems.
 
I haven't mastered tuning a saw, so the Auto tune is a god-send to me. After the initial tune in run, my 550 hasn't skipped a beat. I'm a fall and winter weekend firewooder, that readily adjust to technology and don't worry one bit about tuning that saw. I chose the 550 because I'm all about power to weight ratio, enjoy the speed and power in my hands after using saws that I now call dogs, and I'm better off spending my limited garage time sharpening chains.
The best advice you'll get is identifying the size, type, purpose and frequency for the saw you are interested in. As many people state, every working saw will cut wood, the good folks on this site will give you good advice if you let them know what you're going to do with the saw.
 
These are some great reviews about these two saws. Seems like everyone here is a genius.
So I guess the Auto Tune on the 550 XP had not posed many issues or problems.
Nah, there isn't too many genius' here, but whether we work with saws or just use them for collecting some firewood we all have an active interest and will talk saws and chains for a looooonnngggg time!
 
Well, so much for that decision. I traded the brand new 450 in for the 550 XP.
The Dealer said to break it in properly it should be used hard right from the get-go for at least an hour so get the Auto Tune working properly.

I own 2 of them - you'll get spoiled fast. :happybanana: FYI the owners manual recommends when the saw is started for the first time that it be run at full throttle for the first 3-5 minutes making multiple cuts in a "thick log".

It'll run like crap when you first start it but after about 2 minutes buried in wood you should notice a huge improvement as the carburetor adjusts itself.
 
If anyone is interested in trying a 450 I have a new one in the box for sale. PHO or with 16/18" bar and chain.
 
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