Husqvarna 575xp? project saw

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D.A.

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I got a 288xp from a good friend of mine awhile back. I just got another Husky project saw from that same friend. He's a long time logger, now retiring. He was a little foggy on the model when I talked to him but he thought it might be a 372. It's missing the side cover with the model number but he said he still had the other matching saw that he bought at the same time which still had the side cover. We look at the side cover - - - 375xp? I'm not a Husky expert, but I wasn't familiar with the 375. I knew of the 372 and the 385, but not a 375, but sure enough, there it was on the side cover. So I drag the project saw home and while looking it over, found a data plate that says 575xp, not 375, but 575. Okay - - - Now I'm really confused?????
The saw was low time when it got damaged in the field. The handle/gas tank got cracked, so the saw just went under the bench until I drug it out this morning. I was hoping to get parts to repair and complete it off of eBay hopefully.
So my questions are:
1) What do I really have?
2) Will parts from more plentiful saws interchange (372 for example)?
Thanks in advance.
David
 

D.A.

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Dang you guys are good! So tell me about the 575. Is it a good saw? Is it 75CC's? How does it measure up to the 288 and 372?

I'm going to start working on it and figuring out what I need.

Thanks guys.
 
Junior

Junior

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They're not bad, a little less power than a 372 in stock form, but that's easily remedied. Parts are fairly easy to find, baileys will have most of what you need...
 
Junior

Junior

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If it were me, I'd use it for parts. But I've got a few saws, and not enough parts. You might luck out and find another, one with a scorched cylinder for example, and make one out of two...
 
J.Walker

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It's a pro saw, originally designed to replace the 372XP.

Years ago I went to a dealer to buy a 372xp. They had the 575, replacement for the 372. I bought the 575. It's still stock, and doing good!

When running the 575 I love the sound of the X-Tork engine. Your running your saw out to the max tork and the carb right before the end kicks it's it up a bit.

Here is that number; 04 46 00 382


.
 
taplinhill

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I bought my 575 used. I think it was an 05, but don't remember for sure. I bought it with a 570. I think they were both used much harder than the seller let on. The 570 was cracked similar to the OP's 575, but still ran good. The 575 ran great, and I was starting to like it, but then she cast her withers. If the 576XP AT (or better yet, a fuelie) ever comes in Jred livery, I might have to try one.
 

D.A.

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I've dug into the thing further and it turns out there's nothing wrong with the handle at all, just the engine case halves. And as far as the case halves, it's just the ears or wings, or whatever they're called, that support the carb base. Actually, it looks like if I had a pull starter it would probably run.

However, I'm a little worried about another point. The flywheel turns fairly easy. This is the first saw that I've had with a compression release. I finally figured out how to close it (pull it outward) and that helped but it seems like it should be harder to turn. Am I missing something? Have I not completely closed the compression release? Could it just be too dry to have good compression and the compression will rise once it has fuel/oil in it? Or is this sucker worn out? It was supposed to be low hours. Even if it were high time it seems like it should be harder to turn by turning the flywheel.

You guys with experience, what say you?
 
Junior

Junior

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If you remove your muffler and spark plug, you should be able to peek in the cylinder and spot any damage. It'll be hard to judge compression without the starter, they need to be turned over fairly fast to build compression, or "drop test"...
 

D.A.

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I'm starting to collect pieces and parts to fix/refresh it. Maybe with a set of new (used) case halves, a gasket set and a set of rings I'll be in business. If anyone has a similar condition 288 they'd trade, shoot up a flare.
 
pops21

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The crank bearings are probably good. I would replace the crank seals though. The cylinder is probably scored. Probably needs some muratic acid and some tlc. You won't be able to tell untill you pull the cylinder. Just let me know what you need help with. I sent you a PM back. I would get a new aftermarket piston.
 
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