Huztl MS660

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I got to really use my MS660 today. I had some trouble with carbs and the one that came with the kit was an issue but I repurchased one and later got a larger jet for it. I recently got the 36 Inch Holzfforma Portable Chainsaw Mill @ http://www.huztl.net/36-Inch-Holzff...-Milling-From-14-to-36-Guide-Bar-p228061.html and put the two to work together and wow. What a pair. I think the 070 will be a better full time permanent milling pal but the FarmerTec MS660 slap did the trick. I got 4 big thick 2 1/4" slabs off one end of the log, the chainsaw had zero issues. The saw is very capable and I think the carb jet size increase was helpful here. The mill is complete and worth ever cent. I discovered that if you buy the larger mill you can also find the shorter rails and bar and with those pieces have the capability of having two mill sizes with a much smaller overall cost. Also, I saw they now have chainsaw files for sale by the dozen here is one size available http://www.huztl.net/1-Pack-12PCS-5...n-Files-Gold-Color-Free-Shipping-p402198.html I have been wanting to learn to sharpen my own chain and they recently put this guide up for sale. I wonder if that would be helpful to a novice
http://www.huztl.net/Holzfforma-Bar...-Chainsaw-Saw-Chain-Filing-Guide-p390589.html Stihl has an all in one hand filing system I am also looking at.

I did a really short video. I need a rail system before I can go crazy with it.

 
Your Holz' 36" mill is adjustable to any bar from 10" up to 42" using the mill's nose guard and much longer with the guard off. Why do you feel you need shorter rails when you can just loosen the cross arms and slide them to any position desired? Round files are available in the USA for the same price range shipped and they are brands with very good reviews so consider them also. Their files do look interesting though....appears to be TiN coated.
 
A shorter one would be lighter and shorter of course.

Good info on the files you can usually find something cheaper if you work at it. The PFERD brand I looked at came 6 to a box for 20$ these came 12 to a box for 16 shipped.
They were a new addition to a website I buy from and stuck me as a potential deal. I need more information before I choose. Never sharpen a chain to date look forward to it. I am using the more frequently and me paying 7$ a pop to have it done and two road trips is a good incentive to learn.
 
Bedford T said:
A shorter one would be lighter and shorter of course.

Good info on the files you can usually find something cheaper if you work at it. The PFERD brand I looked at came 6 to a box for 20$ these came 12 to a box for 16 shipped.
They were a new addition to a website I buy from and stuck me as a potential deal. I need more information before I choose. Never sharpen a chain to date look forward to it. I am using the more frequently and me paying 7$ a pop to have it done and two road trips is a good incentive to learn.
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You would only be saving a very small amount of weight with a 24" mill (- 2' of light aluminum rail) as all the other parts are identical and the mill spends 99% of the time, when in use, resting on the log. Grab another if the bug has bitten but don't be disappointed with it being nearly the same weight when it arrives.
 
Dude I was just talking. Not commiting to marriage or dismissing your sound advice.

A 24" mill is a foot shorter and sometimes that could matter. The fact that is possible to have an option adds that versatility to the tool. I think granberg sells the 24" for 50$.

I used a 24" bar on it and I did not like the end not being supported in a manner I found satisfying. I could see the rails toe in slightly because the support was on the other side.

So there are sound reasons for having a longer and a shorter setup for the bar length even though it's adjustable and even better to have one with the option to go 24, 36. They even have a 30" and of course beyond but these lengths can support the material supplied with this mill
 
Bedford T said:
Dude I was just talking. Not commiting to marriage or dismissing your sound advice.

A 24" mill is a foot shorter and sometimes that could matter. The fact that is possible to have an option adds that versatility to the tool. I think granberg sells the 24" for 50$.

I used a 24" bar on it and I did not like the end not being supported in a manner I found satisfying. I could see the rails toe in slightly because the support was on the other side.

So there are sound reasons for having a longer and a shorter setup for the bar length even though it's adjustable and even better to have one with the option to go 24, 36. They even have a 30" and of course beyond but these lengths can support the material supplied with this mill
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Rest easy friend...just sharing info gathered while surfing the net and from personal experience with my 36" mill.
 
Hi Bedford,
I watched your video using the chainsaw mill. I used an Alaskan Sawmill back in the 90's. You also should get, if I recall correctly, a ripping chain. It's a chain designed to cut with the grain and it will fly through that. It appears you are using a normal chainsaw chain that is made to cut across the grain not with the grain. Makes a huge difference.
 
Friends, you guys missed the most telling bit in that very short 19+ sec video. The bar breaking through wood

In a 20 sec video the most you can get out of it is ...Look here's a guy using 660 on a saw mill. But since you imagined stuff ...And missed the only potential thing that have been questionable the bar nose coming to the surface, but that was on purpose as an old cut was being evened up for a subsequent runs. Milling through increasingly thinning wood is not natural. Winding up with a flat surface was realised.

And a discussion about chain strategy would be like talking about brands of oil, I am pleased with the video showing a hint of what it's like to build a ms660 that I tuned and attached to a mill that I assembled and put to use to fill my need producing some planks. It was awesome. Looking forward to more and more. Wish you could have been there.
 
Tuned is tuned. The only thing you did was change the position the H needle is in when it's tuned. It's called the Placebo Effect.

Concerning your video... You're using the mill backwards, cutting with the top of the bar. You're also lifting the mill off the surface of the wood, making for a very poor cut. Finally, rocking the saw back and forth isn't doing you any good at all.
 
blsnelling said:
Tuned is tuned. The only thing you did was change the position the H needle is in when it's tuned. It's called the Placebo Effect.

Concerning your video... You're using the mill backwards, cutting with the top of the bar. You're also lifting the mill off the surface of the wood, making for a very poor cut. Finally, rocking the saw back and forth isn't doing you any good at all.
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Good info blsnelling. I'll add that such a short bar may create an imbalanced lever/fulcrum near the dogs...causing the 17 lb powerhead to lift the light bar and make a moderate task a real pain in the ass. If you find this the case, try taking the dogs off and snug the powerhead up close to the mill then check balance again.
 
Bedford T said:
Friends, you guys missed the most telling bit in that very short 19+ sec video. The bar breaking through wood

In a 20 sec video the most you can get out of it is ...Look here's a guy using 660 on a saw mill. But since you imagined stuff ...And missed the only potential thing that have been questionable the bar nose coming to the surface, but that was on purpose as an old cut was being evened up for a subsequent runs. Milling through increasingly thinning wood is not natural. Winding up with a flat surface was realised.

And a discussion about chain strategy would be like talking about brands of oil, I am pleased with the video showing a hint of what it's like to build a ms660 that I tuned and attached to a mill that I assembled and put to use to fill my need producing some planks. It was awesome. Looking forward to more and more. Wish you could have been there.
Click to expand...

Doubt anyone missed it. Your friends here also didn't miss that other forum friends are giving pointers on how to not have that type of performance happen again. The 070 will only make your job harder...heavier, slower and more work with some setups. If you move up to much longer bars, then a good running 070 may be beneficial but I think that focusing on a correct chain for the task that is kept sharp will benefit you more.
 
These saws are interesting and when you put one on a mill it seems to make sense, if you burn it up just make another. And putting a larger jet in one you are milling with would mean more oil being delivered seems like a good strategy. @Bedford T you made some good clear videos to help with building one. I have done it all more than once except the cases. It was good to see it done.
 
TreeJoe said:
These saws are interesting and when you put one on a mill it seems to make sense, if you burn it up just make another. And putting a larger jet in one you are milling with would mean more oil being delivered seems like a good strategy. @Bedford T you made some good clear videos to help with building one. I have done it all more than once except the cases. It was good to see it done.
Click to expand...
Only way to deliver more oil to the crank bearings and other internals is to increase the oil ratio in the fuel or run with a rich condition. Larger jets only cause the needle to be turned in farther until "Tune" is reached. Larger jets are needed when you turn the needle out and never reach a rich condition...that is after eliminating other fuel starvation or lean condition causes...filter, screens, leaks, vent, etc.
 

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