Huztl MS660

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I bought that style first, nowhere near as easy as the Stihl tool
I checked with the guy but I did not ask how easy it was. I checked I can get the Stihl for 67$ + ship might be 5$. Surely his is not as hard as using a screwdriver to get it in. I had not seen anything other that the Stihl tool. A buddy can just spin them in buying a tool would almost be a waste of money for him. Not me. It's ears or the tool.

But that is good to know.
 
Have you dialed it back. Mine, most stihl's just barely oil the chain for me.
No not yet...I was waiting on the B/C to get here to adjust the oiler. I had read somewhere that there could be some sort of check valve sticking that might cause it to leak when not running? And it is coming from the bar oil hole...I know some have forgotten to install the oring between the pump and the cases...mine is dry back in there
 
the guy dropped the price of that 33 inch bar for the 070 to 79 dollars free ship or best offer I Was thinking about buying it but I Already have the 42 inch ordered
 
No not yet...I was waiting on the B/C to get here to adjust the oiler. I had read somewhere that there could be some sort of check valve sticking that might cause it to leak when not running? And it is coming from the bar oil hole...I know some have forgotten to install the oring between the pump and the cases...mine is dry back in there
That is getting all lubed up thinking about that delicious bar and chain on order. Lol.

My saws are much less messy when the bar and chain are in place. Roll it on its side while you wait. Likely nothing wrong. If that little valve is stuck and you have some air take the cap off and give it a puff on top of it. If some small piece of dirt is in it it might come loose.

I have hit reply and can't see what size bar you might have coming. In the my 660 every inch over 24 will get dryer and dryer. That oiler will not do a 32 or more hardly at all. I am speaking of mine and what I have read.
 
I have hit reply and can't see what size bar you might have coming. In the my 660 every inch over 24 will get dryer and dryer. That oiler will not do a 32 or more hardly at all. I am speaking of mine and what I have read.
I ordered a 32" Laser pro bar with .050 full chisel chain. Heck the way it is now I think it will lube that bar even not running! :laugh:
 
I ordered a 32" Laser pro bar with .050 full chisel chain. Heck the way it is now I think it will lube that bar even not running! :laugh:
I ordered a 32" Laser pro bar with .050 full chisel chain. Heck the way it is now I think it will lube that bar even not running! :laugh:
Mine oils a 32" just fine
 
Anyone have a rod bearing fail? Looks like there's a little discoloration from heat. Plenty of metal shaved/chipped off and made it up to the top. I had 5-6 tanks through the saw.
rod bearing fail1.jpg rod bearing fail.jpg
 
Ratio used is 40:1. I didn't use the cylinder gasket; had a squish of 0.022" and i made several measurements around the piston. Could that ring have been formed after the bearing failed?
 
The whole thing looks like it was a pile driver and the bearings failed. A gut feeling is likely all you can hope from someone who has more experience than myself. But just look at what you are showing us.
 
Did it do anything strange before the big kaboom? Like run or sound funny?
Might be just the pics...but things look awfully dry...no way it got straight gassed, is there? Piston doesn't really look like a typical "no oil" piston though...hmm
 
I pointed out a circlip installer recently and definitive dave countered with a better one, the stihl one. the oddest thing happened I got one and I can say its way nice. i tired a aftermarket "c" type in the installer and it was not smooth. i happen to have two pair of the oem clips and it was smooth as butter, so the clip
sizes are slightly off by about a nats behind. I had a old piston i could try it on. I may not have this when they figure out the mistake and likely i should not have used it. but i did and I am showing it to you too. sweet! If you want to see him operate the tool see video. (edit)The tool comes in three sizes. 12, 8/9,10mm. You might notice the clamp. Its very handy and also on his website. the blades are flat to give the hose a good pinch without damage and its easy to handle and small to store.

circlip tool.jpg IMG_20170722_170652.jpg IMG_20170722_170704.jpg IMG_20170722_171614.jpg IMG_20170722_171628.jpg IMG_20170722_171713.jpg IMG_20170722_171721.jpg IMG_20170722_171737.jpg IMG_20170722_171805.jpg
 
Hey I Was able to just press the ms660 crank into the clutch side of the case by hand Couldn't I Just use a bunch of washers and the flywheel nut to pull it through the flywheel side ?
 
Simple way is to heat it with a gun and push, use the case screws to finish it. You might want to remove the locator pins when you finish.

But yes there are different ways to do it
 
Simple way is to heat it with a gun and push, use the case screws to finish it. You might want to remove the locator pins when you finish.

But yes there are different ways to do it

Good thinking I Saw on Youtube !

where one of those pins fell out into the clutch and the clutch EXPLODED !
 
Simple way is to heat it with a gun and push, use the case screws to finish it. You might want to remove the locator pins when you finish.

But yes there are different ways to do it
I've found you still need to use a crank tool or stack washers and tug on the flywheel to finish seat the crank into the bearing. Whenever i use the case bolts to pull the halves together the crank is tight while turning like there is a side load on the bearings. It isn't much but one or two turns on the flywheel nut sucks the crank deeper into the bearing and makes it turn smoothly.
 
20170723_154707.jpg case halves are together now. And crank seems good

Is this right. No base gasket 15 thousandths. 20170723_171851.jpg

I'll probably have to run a base gasket with this then. Or remove some of the squish band. I've had about enough for now to be honest. The cases went right together.

Too bad the cases are beat up and the crank has corrosion. But hey. We'll see how it goes


Edit. I checked it with my mitutoyo micrometer that I know how to read. And its 15 thousandths
 
The whole thing looks like it was a pile driver and the bearings failed. A gut feeling is likely all you can hope from someone who has more experience than myself. But just look at what you are showing us.
He already said it had .022" squish clearance. The bearing failed and allowed the piston to beat on the cylinder head.
 
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