Also consider filing from the back of the tooth forward, as this may prove easier than coming in from the point and pushing down/back.
I Give Up
- Thread starter penningp
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Also consider filing from the back of the tooth forward, as this may prove easier than coming in from the point and pushing down/back.
penningp
ArboristSite Lurker
interesting - I always do that
penningp
ArboristSite Lurker
I wonder if I am not exactly level when I file - I will watch that as well
stihl023/5
Addicted to ArboristSite
Filing in the wrong direction. It looks like you are filing downward into the link, not towards the rear of the cutter. The leading edge of the file should be making contact with the bottom of the cutter and the file diameter should be slighty larger than the cutter so you get a good edge with the right angle.
Cheap solution - go to Lowes or your local Husky dealer, get a file guide and use it to learn how the file works to sharpen the cutter and how to set the rakers
You can get these guides at tractor supply also blue .375 or reg. 3/8 silver .325 & black 3/8 low pro. or picco:msp_sneaky:
fearofpavement
Trying them all
If the chain is properly sharpened it will FEEL sharp if you very lightly run your thumb perpendicular to the sharpened area. ie, check it like you would a knife. It should be sharp enough to cut your skin if you put pressure on it. If it doesn't feel sharp like that, it's not right.
Keep at it. You'll figure it out eventually and it'll become second nature to keep the chain in good condition and throwing nice chips.
Keep at it. You'll figure it out eventually and it'll become second nature to keep the chain in good condition and throwing nice chips.
Watch that video a few times it is very good. Keep with the geometry of the process, the right file, the right angles, being level and parallel. I don't think anyone mentioned it but make sure that the file is not damaged and is a sharp file. I bought a box of a dozen files to keep in the garage. I was having trouble getting a chain sharp, I swapped the file and wow, it was like night and day.
arborealbuffoon
Wood Wh@re
Some good advice has already been posted. I highly recommend a 20 inch bar with 72 drive links. It is much more appropriate for your saw, and there are a lot less teeth to file when you do run it into the dirt. I've cut wood professionally for nearly all my adult life, and rarely need more than a 24 inch bar.
Also, taking too much off the rakers makes a dangerously aggressive chain that will throw all kinds of stuff at the operator. I used to think all safety chain was for newb's, but they sure are nice when you are cutting up lots of small brushy material. I HATE getting smacked around by flying chunks. I am sure many will disagree, as super-aggressive chisel chain seems to be the standard around this place. That is fine if all you are doing is bucking up logs for your wood pile, however.
Really, hand filing just takes a bit of practice. Keep on trying, and I know you will get it!
Also, taking too much off the rakers makes a dangerously aggressive chain that will throw all kinds of stuff at the operator. I used to think all safety chain was for newb's, but they sure are nice when you are cutting up lots of small brushy material. I HATE getting smacked around by flying chunks. I am sure many will disagree, as super-aggressive chisel chain seems to be the standard around this place. That is fine if all you are doing is bucking up logs for your wood pile, however.
Really, hand filing just takes a bit of practice. Keep on trying, and I know you will get it!
Redoakranch
ArboristSite Operative
It was mentioned before but I'll say it again, you don't want to bury the file level with the top of the tooth, it will make your cut way too deep. A portion of the file will always be higher than the tooth getting filed, it's a common mistake. I just caught my Dad doing this on his ms260 proand then he used my properly filed chain on my 346xp and he couldn't believe how fast it cut. Sawtroll did you hear that! He was using chisel and my saw had semi.
Keep 20% of the file above the top plate. You shouldn't put much force down on the chain but light pressure towards the back of the tooth. I've never used any kind of guide so I can't recommend one to you. I always free hand file my semi chisel. I do recommend clearing out the little hump in the gullet area also when you're touching up the chain. It gives more chip clearance.
I'm not a master at filling, but I get by. I am not to far from you. If you have some time during the day, we could get together and I think I could at least get you going on the right track. PM me if you are interested.
Sam
Sam
I can hand file a chain six to eight times before it needs a grinder to even things out.
I was taught to look for "glint" when sharpening a chain. To get an idea what that looks like, take a pocket knife and put the cutting edge to light. Sharp edge does not reflect light. Dull edge reflects light.
It really is as simple as that. Now look at new chain cutters, look at your old chain and see the glint reflected off your cutters.
As for the Timberline sharpener, it is the best sharpening accessory I own, bar none. I have an Oregon grinder, Granberg, that Husky guide above and the Stihl file guide. They all have their place.
This weekend, I was using a chain that was sharpened with the timberline that I bought last month, and I was cutting crotchwood at a local Methodist Church for their firewood program. The chain have been rocked previously and I brought it back with the timberline. I was getting 2 - 3 inch noodles on oak crotchwood I was preparing for the splitter.
Only other advice I have to give is get at least a half dozen chains. They are a consumable item. It is faster to replace a rocked chain than take the time to bring it back while working.
If you throw a chain off the bar, I would think twice about putting it back in service. Deformed drive teeth ruin a bar quickly. Put these chains aside and get a chain breaker with some splicing links. If the chain is fairly new, shorten it up or cannibilize another chain for links and remove the bad links, (those that don't fit in drive groove) Bars are expensive and will last a long time if used right. Bad chain used is false economy and will cost you more than what you're saving.
If you can afford the timberline sharpener, do it. It is the only sharpening accessory that will get consistent factory new results every time. Especially for an inexperienced person. A badly rocked chain will need a grinder, other than that, each accessory has its place and time.
I was taught to look for "glint" when sharpening a chain. To get an idea what that looks like, take a pocket knife and put the cutting edge to light. Sharp edge does not reflect light. Dull edge reflects light.
It really is as simple as that. Now look at new chain cutters, look at your old chain and see the glint reflected off your cutters.
As for the Timberline sharpener, it is the best sharpening accessory I own, bar none. I have an Oregon grinder, Granberg, that Husky guide above and the Stihl file guide. They all have their place.
This weekend, I was using a chain that was sharpened with the timberline that I bought last month, and I was cutting crotchwood at a local Methodist Church for their firewood program. The chain have been rocked previously and I brought it back with the timberline. I was getting 2 - 3 inch noodles on oak crotchwood I was preparing for the splitter.
Only other advice I have to give is get at least a half dozen chains. They are a consumable item. It is faster to replace a rocked chain than take the time to bring it back while working.
If you throw a chain off the bar, I would think twice about putting it back in service. Deformed drive teeth ruin a bar quickly. Put these chains aside and get a chain breaker with some splicing links. If the chain is fairly new, shorten it up or cannibilize another chain for links and remove the bad links, (those that don't fit in drive groove) Bars are expensive and will last a long time if used right. Bad chain used is false economy and will cost you more than what you're saving.
If you can afford the timberline sharpener, do it. It is the only sharpening accessory that will get consistent factory new results every time. Especially for an inexperienced person. A badly rocked chain will need a grinder, other than that, each accessory has its place and time.
Last edited:
penningp
ArboristSite Lurker
As promised more pics. I focused on lifting up on the file and back towards the rear of the tooth. The chain cut much much better but.....I was not throwing chips - I was throwing some chips and some sawdust. I went through a 2.5 foot diameter log in about 45 seconds (sycamore) I was feeling pretty good and decided to go cut some maple - got half way through and hit a piece of concrete and the saw stopped cutting - seriously who puts concrete in the middle of a tree!
Anyway - check the pics out and please comment on some other adjustments so I can start throwing chips!View attachment 250475View attachment 250476View attachment 250477View attachment 250478
Anyway - check the pics out and please comment on some other adjustments so I can start throwing chips!View attachment 250475View attachment 250476View attachment 250477View attachment 250478
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
What diameter file, and what file guide are you using?
penningp
ArboristSite Lurker
7/32nd file with the stihl file guide - the same one in the video earlier in the thread.
I can see glint on the top of the right tooth on jpg4.
Sharp teeth don't reflect light on cutting edges.
On jpg3, that chain was rocked on one side. Notice the point is missing on the leading top cutting edges on one side and the other side has a very sharp point.
When I get a chain like that, I take it to the grinder and bring both sides to equal length to achieve the sharp point on both sides.
Sharp teeth don't reflect light on cutting edges.
On jpg3, that chain was rocked on one side. Notice the point is missing on the leading top cutting edges on one side and the other side has a very sharp point.
When I get a chain like that, I take it to the grinder and bring both sides to equal length to achieve the sharp point on both sides.
Last edited:
Use a 3/16 file if the cutter is still more than half its original length, 5/32 once its starts getting down to a half or less. Remember that raker height and file size are both a function of cutter length. As the cutter is filed away, the height diminishes because it is tapered from front to rear. Thats the reason that the rakers need to be set every so often and why you may need to go a size smaller as the chain wears.
here is a look at how the file should fit the cutter
penningp
ArboristSite Lurker
Use a 3/16 file if the cutter is still more than half its original length, 5/32 once its starts getting down to a half or less. Remember that raker height and file size are both a function of cutter length. As the cutter is filed away, the height diminishes because it is tapered from front to rear. Thats the reason that the rakers need to be set every so often and why you may need to go a size smaller as the chain wears.
here is a look at how the file should fit the cutter
So am I using the wrong size file - I should be using 3/16th?
