I ported a timberpro 6150

[NSEric]

You could do all the porting on these saws on the piston if you wanted to and they'd run pretty good as they have timing issues more than flow issues, you could even use a file if you don't have a dermal. You would grind the top of the piston by the exhaust port, the top by the transfers and the bottom by the intake port all about 1/8 of an inch, grinding the bottom by the transfers under the wrist pin helps flow into the transfers but doesn't effect timing like the other spots, take as much as you can off there.
I think you get more torque if you keep the squish tight tho so grinding the ports is better if you have the gear to do it. I don't have away to grind the top of the transfers so I ground the top of the piston instead and your better off grinding the pistons intake skirt instead of the bottom of the intake port to increase intake timing so I ground the pistons skirt.
The bottom of my 62's exhaust port is even with the top of the piston at bdc and is free porting a tiny bit at tdc already so I don't need to touch it and shouldn't.

 

[NSEric]

Just cut up some 15-16 inch maple, didn't make a video, that takes me an hour or more to do, just took a pic and timed the cuts, 13-14 seconds for the big part of the tree, shes no speed demon but doesn't seam to mind cutting largeish wood, the revs don't drop and the saw doesn't struggle but the .325 chain is out of its element. You can see my wood pile in the pic, I don't need to cut up any huge trees so I don't mind the .325 chain, it's nice and smooth for limbing and smaller trees but I know 3/8 would be faster in large wood.
I also took a side by side pic of the chains, the archer looks more aggressive but the 1/2 wore out Oregon cuts faster, the archer is on the 20 inch bar. I split the wood up for some exercise lol.

 

[Thommo]

This is what i use to raise the transfer ports with a dremel

 

[NSEric]

I have Dremel bits like that and the flex attachment which is smaller than the Dremel itself so they should work, I'll give it a try when the 58cc cylinder shows up.

 

[NSEric]

Still don't have the new cylinder so no more timberpro/Chinese saw stuff yet but I did port something else.
I've had a 3816 homelite for half a dozen years for an atv saw, its small enough to fit in the atvs box and its light too but it was always slow and wouldn't cut a tree as big as the bar unless you held up on it and really took your time so I gave up on it and started taking the timberpro on the atv. I also wanted to try raising the transfers with my Dremel attachments on a saw I don't care about incase I ruined it so I ported the homelite.
I did the same thing to it as I did the Chinese saws that also didn't rev high out of the box, 1/8 off the top and sides of the exhaust port, 1/8 off the top of the transfers and some off the pistons skirt for more intake timing and flow into the transfers. I gutted the muffler as well as added holes under the deflector and open up the louvers in the deflector a bit, its still not too loud. I don't like clamshell saws at all after working on this POS, it took 3-4 times as long to take apart and put back together as the Chinese saws.
It came out alright and I can Dremel the tops of the transfers ok with what I have so I can do the Chinese saws when I get parts.
The saw revs better with more power, I might actually use it now lol.

 

[NSEric]

Round two porting the timberpro 6150.
I measured the bore and stroke, its 48mm bore and 34mm stroke which should be close to 61.5 cc.
After reading thommo's post about the quad transfers being smaller than the duals I wanted to remove the divider. I also took 1/16th off the top of the transfers and 1/16 off the bottom of the intake. This gives a total of 1/8th off the top of the exhaust, a matching 1/8th off the top of the transfers/top of piston and 1/8th off the pistons intake skirt/bottom of the intake port, plus the usual widening of the intake, exhaust and bottom of transfers. The transfers are still only 20mm wide which seams small when compared to a open port husky.
Now she cuts! It's got quite a bit more torque, the transfers were key. Im gonna have to make my chain more aggressive you can bury the bar and lean on it hard now.
Here's some pics, you can see the burn pattern in the quad transfers showing that one side wasn't flowing much at all, they should've been clean.

 

[NSEric]

Here's a video of my port work. Some guy on youtube wanted a how to so I half assed one for him.

 

[Huskybill]

Did you match the base gasket transfer ports to the case and cylinder? That's another trick to match the port sizes using the gasket.

Slow down brother you have the porting flu. The cure is to port more. Lol but the difference is awesome when you know the saw and see the before and after performance letting the beast breathe.

 

[NSEric]

The transfer bottoms matched up pretty well with the base stock and they're pretty thin, I don't think it would seal if I removed material from there on these saws.
On bike motors they hog out the case along with the cylinder to make the transfers bigger which would work on some saws too but on this saws there's no extra material there to work with.
I'll get to port more once my 45.2 mm "58" cylinder shows up for the 46, I kinda like working on these saws, I can take the top end off in 10 minutes lol.
I wanted to port my poulan/jred 4218 too but the crank seals went, it also needs a chain brake handle so its not worth messing with.

 

[NSEric]

I got the 45.2mm '58' cylinder for the 46 and my other goodies from aliexpress the other day.
I did some measuring before porting, I really should've got/built a degree wheel but I didn't so I measured down from the top to the ports.
The 58 appears to be for the 34mm stroke but will work on the 32mm stroke that my 46 has.
The exhaust port was the same height as the one in my ported cylinder, the transfers were 2mm higher which is how much I took off the piston so they're the same and the intake was 2mm lower which is how much I took off the piston so its the same. The squish was bad tho, like 70thouansd bad and the compression is 115psi, its a wonder it runs good at all lol.
First up I ground out the divider's in the transfers and widened the exhaust, I made no adjustments to the timing at all. The transfers were the same width but the 58 has dividers like the tmberpro's cylinder did.
The saw fired right up, I ran it for a bit but it didn't rev well, it was a little better than the stock 46 which didn't rev good at all tho, that thing was really slow stock.
In an effort to make it rev I then took 1/16 off the top of the exhaust and transfer ports and 1/16 off the bottom of the pistons intake skirt just incase it needed more intake timing. This made it rev a bit better but it still doesn't rev like the ported 46 did, like the timberpro it also doesn't fourstroke heavily like the ported 46 did.
I added the easy start pull start assembly so it matches the timberpro, I like these, you don't need to drop start the saw just hold it still and pull it easy.
I added the better automotive style air filter to the timberpro, it doesn't add any air flow but wont suck dust when slightly dirty like the stock one.
I put the slightly larger filter holder and filter off the timberpro on the 46. I thought the carbs were the same size but they're not, the timberpros is 1.5-2mm bigger, it would be an upgrade to the 46/52 cc saws. I took a pic of the filter holders but you cant see the difference in size easily but its enough the filters wont interchange and the part by the carb is noticeably bigger helping air flow.

So in conclusion the 58 cylinder fits and works but I'd buy the 52 if I had a do over as its only .2mm smaller, has transfers I dont need to grind and should have better squish making it better. The oddball 58 cylinder isn't totally bad tho it adds some torque on the 46, which maybe better depending on what your cutting. I cant make up my mind on what cylinder to run, high revving 46 or torquier 58 or do I buy the 52 and do it right.
I added a 8 pin rim to make up for the lack of rpm, it pulls it just fine, so now its almost as fast limbing as the higher revving ported 46 and better in big wood now.
Heres some pics.

 

[NSEric]

Here's a video of the saws cutting. The timberpro is 50% faster than the 46 lol.
I tried the 46 a bunch off camera, it cuts the same speed if your only using 1/2 of the bar or the full length of the bar, it feels like the timberpro did stock, slow but it just keeps cutting no matter how big the wood.
I put a 18 inch Oregon speed cut bar/chain on the timberpro, it felt nose heavy with the 20 inch timberpro bar plus I don't need/want a 20 for the wood I cut, the speed cut is about a pound lighter and really noticeable, its not much faster tho.

 

[Huskybill]

Did you advance the timing a tad? How about looking at the carb break down to see if it has a speed governor. We put a plastic paper punch cutout to plug it if it has one. Now you need to fine tune it.

 

[NSEric]

Never touched the timing. Its easy enough to do, I may try it later.
I tuned the carb back and forth from leaner to richer a bit, leaner revs higher but is gutless, richer slows it down, its just a hair rich of perfect as its a work saw and I want it to last, there's no rev limiter, you can lean it out and make it scream but it don't cut good like that.
For some reason this saw doesn't fourstroke much at all but you can hear it rev higher or lower while tuning it.

I switched the 46 back to the 43mm 46 cylinder to get the revs back, the 58 just wasn't right, the 46 is stronger and revs a lot higher, atleast im only out 25 bucks and 2 hours of my time with that experiment.
The 58 cylinder should work as a spare for the timberpro if I ever need it as its meant for the 34mm stroke.

 

[NSEric]

Heres a video of the 46 cutting a piece of wood only a tiny bit smaller than the timberpro in the last vid, its about the same speed in this sized wood. I didn't realise how slow the 58 cylinder made it until I watched the vids back to back.
I also took a picture of how I sealed up the air filter, O ring underneath, the seam taped up and a nut glued on top for a spacer so the nut that holds it on pushes down harder on it.

 

[Huskybill]

On the older husky 2100, 181, 266 series saws there's a brass screw with a short nipple on it if I remember correctly. On the carb. We put a plastic divider paper punched disc before the screw. This plugs the govenor/overspeed. I'm not sure if any saws still have it. Thinking they might still govern it some how. This allows the saw to rev higher. Everyone wants ported saws but tuning is a important part after its ported.

 

[Leafy]

On the older husky 2100, 181, 266 series saws there's a brass screw with a short nipple on it if I remember correctly. On the carb. We put a plastic divider paper punched disc before the screw. This plugs the govenor/overspeed. I'm not sure if any saws still have it. Thinking they might still govern it some how. This allows the saw to rev higher. Everyone wants ported saws but tuning is a important part after its ported.

Not many saws have governers. You just tune it so it just 4 strokes free reving, because of how chainsaw carbs work. If you put a carb with an air bleed, like a bike carb, you can tune it to never go super rich at high rpm and it'll just keep reving till the con rod snaps.

 

[Huskybill]

My older husky saws with the governors plugged, the 8drivers on the rim, the chain sharpened correctly ran awesome even if it was stock.

 

[NSEric]

I cant find a governor screw on the carb.
IMO the 6150 doesn't rev really high because its a bored/stroked 50 cc saw, the carb, intake, muffler and ports just cant keep up at high rpm, its a 12000 rpm saw. The fact that the 4600 revs higher and only has a little less power proves my theory, it has a 1.5mm smaller carb but everything else interchanges.
The 6150 acts like its 5cc bigger than the 4600 not 15cc bigger. This is why I mentioned earlier in this thread to get the 5200, its likely the best sized motor for this saw, others have pointed this out before, its nothing new to some guys.

 

[Leafy]

I mean we can make your 62cc mean you'll just need to build up the outside of the jug by the transfers so you can hog them out enough and put a 372 carb with a bigger intake manifold.

 

[NSEric]

That's a little more than I want to do, you'd have to weld up the cases making them wider too.
I did just order a knock off 365 carb like the one you used tho.
Im going to put it on the 6150 and put the 6150's carb on the 4600, which will be getting a 52 cc cylinder, ported of course lol.