####ing insane

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Thanks. Again I will have pictures etc before I tackle this job. Normally I would have had my friend that is an arborist show me the way unfortunately he is in the sandbox for the time being.



Here are a couple of versions of the Coos Bay cut. They work pretty well with leaners. I've always had better luck matching my cuts with the triangle method but either one will work.
Just don't cut like the moron in the video did. I don't think he realizes how close he came to getting killed.





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Here are a couple of versions of the Coos Bay cut. They work pretty well with leaners. I've always had better luck matching my cuts with the triangle method but either one will work.
Just don't cut like the moron in the video did. I don't think he realizes how close he came to getting killed.





View attachment 312156

with the triangle are all of the cuts on plane as the hinge of the face cut? Also does the backcut come in at the same plane as the other cuts or slightly higher like a standard backcut?
 
with the triangle are all of the cuts on plane as the hinge of the face cut? Also does the backcut come in at the same plane as the other cuts or slightly higher like a standard backcut?

Usually...usually...the side cuts are on the same plane as the hinge. I almost always use a Humboldt face.
It depends on the tree...size, species, amount of lean, soundness of wood, but I usually make the back cut level with the others. I'm not saying that my method is carved in stone or is the absolute best...it's just what works for me.

The thing to remember on a heavy leaner is that when you start backing it up you're committed. Don't slow down or stop to admire your handiwork...hammer on the saw. But hammer carefully, don't cut through your hinge. This usually won't be a problem because the tree will start to move before you're really ready for it to.

Remember too that a leaner can still 'chair on you even with the best of methods. Stay focused. Also remember that a 'chair doesn't always slab out straight back. They can break out an an angle and come at you that way. They happen in an eye blink. A 'chair can also break at the top and go any way at all. Again, in an eye blink.
 
thanks for leaving that up Steve ,hopefully people use as a what not to do when they are falling something ,DON'T DO THE BACK CUT FIRST for starters ,especially when a rotten tree is leaning on the tree your cutting directly over your head :dizzy:
 
with the triangle are all of the cuts on plane as the hinge of the face cut? Also does the backcut come in at the same plane as the other cuts or slightly higher like a standard backcut?

You will also really benefit from having a saw strong enough for the size of tree youre falling. Last time we were giving an inexperienced sawer advice on dealing with a decent sized heavy leaner, we didn't realize he was gonna use a 40cc saw. Unless you thoroughly bore out a lot of holding wood, either thru the face or behind the hinge, you'll need to get thru that back cut fast. Make sure you have enough saw and a sharp chain
 
You will also really benefit from having a saw strong enough for the size of tree youre falling. Last time we were giving an inexperienced sawer advice on dealing with a decent sized heavy leaner, we didn't realize he was gonna use a 40cc saw. Unless you thoroughly bore out a lot of holding wood, either thru the face or behind the hinge, you'll need to get thru that back cut fast. Make sure you have enough saw and a sharp chain

Sounds like a great excuse for me to get the 70 cc saw I have been looking at to accompany the 50cc I have. I've got the idea that cutting leaners is a no messing around business and once you start the back cut you need to make the cut fast and get out of the way. Thats a great reason for more saw. The heavies of leaners I have is 42" in circumference. The other one has a more gentle lean and is a little larger and is a cherry. I will start a thread before I tackle this with pictures and measurements.
 
Usually...usually...the side cuts are on the same plane as the hinge. I almost always use a Humboldt face.
It depends on the tree...size, species, amount of lean, soundness of wood, but I usually make the back cut level with the others. I'm not saying that my method is carved in stone or is the absolute best...it's just what works for me.

The thing to remember on a heavy leaner is that when you start backing it up you're committed. Don't slow down or stop to admire your handiwork...hammer on the saw. But hammer carefully, don't cut through your hinge. This usually won't be a problem because the tree will start to move before you're really ready for it to.

Remember too that a leaner can still 'chair on you even with the best of methods. Stay focused. Also remember that a 'chair doesn't always slab out straight back. They can break out an an angle and come at you that way. They happen in an eye blink. A 'chair can also break at the top and go any way at all. Again, in an eye blink.

Great info thanks again this type of info is invaluable. I think a lot of homeowners with a chainsaw have no idea how serious and scary a barber chair is.
 
Wow!! That video was an amazing display of pickled brain syndrome. He and his buddy were all pumped up admiring their work. Little did they know they almost videoed another forestry statistic.
I'm certainly no pro faller or cutter, but I have some experience in the woods and a little basic physics background. Applied common sense and a little physics can make your life safer and easier.:greenchainsaw:
 
That was probably as bad as the one where the people were cutting off a ladder and then walking under the tree with the saw pinched above their heads. :banghead:
 
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