Installing wood stove this weekend. Need tips

[tbow388]

I am installing my wood stove this weekend. I got the ceiling support kit from lowes and all of the necessary installation stuff.

I was wondering if any of you guys have any tips for me?

It is a freestanding EPA certified stove. There is 3 feet between the ceiling and the roof. The roofing on this section of the house is a commercial grade roll roofing material. There is not much pitch to it. I am pretty comfy doing everything except for cutting a hole in my roof and installing the flashing and sealing it.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.:msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin:

 

[smokee]

Can't offer you much help other than saying best wishes on the install. I'll be following this thread as I'm installing an insert in a few weeks. Will you be installing a liner?

 

[tbow388]

Liner

Smokee. This is a stand alone stove. No chimney. I will have a black stove pipe going to the ceiling. From there I will go through the ceiling and attic with a ceiling kit and then double wall class a chimney pipe and then through the roof.

 

[smokee]

Smokee. This is a stand alone stove. No chimney. I will have a black stove pipe going to the ceiling. From there I will go through the ceiling and attic with a ceiling kit and then double wall class a chimney pipe and then through the roof.

Gotcha! I'll be following along none the less.

 

[sb47]

Sounds like you gotta grip on the install. One thing I may say is when you seal it, wait a few weeks and seal it again, and even a third time.
I miss judged the distance I needed my stove to be from the wall and had to move it closer later on. Now my stove is only 4” from the wall and when I have it as hot it can get I can touch the wall with my hand and its warm but a long way from being hot. Plus I added a sheet metal beerier spaced out an inch from the sheetrock. I can touch the sheet metal barrier with my bear hand and it’s no hot at all.

Take your time and think things through. Good luck!

 

[MishMouse]

My tips, would be to follow the manufactures instructions on clearances and use their numbers as a min value. Aka: If the manual says it has to be 20" from anything flamable do not make it 19" make it at least 20".

Make sure that you have adaquate chimney height and that there are no draft restrictions, aka needs to be above roof line, no trees in the way etc..

Depending on your area, and your insurance carrier you may need to have it inspected.

Questions:
What type of wood stove are you installing? Certain stove models require a higher chimney based upon your area.
Is your wood cut, split, stacked and seasoned?

 

[MotorSeven]

Postion your stove exactly where you want it. Then use a plumb bob to mark the ceiling, and cut that hole. Plumb bob again from the underside of roof back to the stove(I drilled a hole at center through the roof with a small bit). The roof/pitch flashing kit should come with a template...use it as it is real easy to cut this hole wrong since it is on an angle. If it does not have a template take your time and triple measure everything. Remember if you cut the hole too big it's a large mistake...too small and no big deal.

I did some serious thinking and sweating when I cut the hole through my brand new 10/12 pitch roof that I just built. I have a metal roof, so flashing was pretty easy. Shingle is not too bad, just go easy on them by using a large putty knife to separate and lift them up to slid the flashing in.

 

[Garmins dad]

Postion your stove exactly where you want it. Then use a plumb bob to mark the ceiling, and cut that hole. Plumb bob again from the underside of roof back to the stove(I drilled a hole at center through the roof with a small bit). The roof/pitch flashing kit should come with a template...use it as it is real easy to cut this hole wrong since it is on an angle. If it does not have a template take your time and triple measure everything. Remember if you cut the hole too big it's a large mistake...too small and no big deal.

I did some serious thinking and sweating when I cut the hole through my brand new 10/12 pitch roof that I just built. I have a metal roof, so flashing was pretty easy. Shingle is not too bad, just go easy on them by using a large putty knife to separate and lift them up to slid the flashing in.

Drill your hole.. THEN go in your attic to find your roof truss near your hole so you can be sure of where your stove will go if you want a strait run for your stack..

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

Drill your hole.. THEN go in your attic to find your roof truss near your hole so you can be sure of where your stove will go if you want a strait run for your stack..

Or look at the rafter tails on the outside to get a general idea of where the structure is relative to where you want your stove & chimney.

 

[NDtreehugger]

Be sure your hearth is 24" in front of your stove; wood coals will roll out the front when you let the stove get too full.

One night when its late you wake up to a cold cold house, you walk over to the stove to toss a big all-nighter in, as you wiggle the big log into to the stove, from underneath a round coal will roll out and onto your floor.

At first it will be dark in color so you can't see it, you get your log in an off to bed you go, only to wake up with a big hole in your floor.

Another more aggressive coal, you open your stove the cold air gets under the heat and POP, big chunk of red hot coal pops out of the stove and rolls on to your floor.

I had a piece of coal roll out the front bounce off my leg and rolled to the side of the stove.

Make sure your hearth is big enough to keep you safe.

Another set up tip, find your ceiling studs first then decide where to put your stove

 

[tbow388]

Mish, it is a pleasant hearth stove from lowes. Yes, I have cut, split and seasoned wood from last year.

 

[tbow388]

I have my stove positioned somewhat. I have been in the attic and gotten some measurements of the ceiling joist. I know about where the are. I was going to drill a small hole, go up and clean the insulation away. From that point I will adjust where the hole needs to go according to my ceiling joist and then mark the roof. I will also measure the joist because they are rough cut oak and do vary a bit from one to another. I plan on measuring and building my support structure from there and then taking it up in the attic to install.

 

[tbow388]

All of my ceilings are 2" beaded ceiling with ceiling tiles over them. My roofing deck is tongue and groove 1x6's. I will be framing a structure to go around that hole also. My roofing at that point is a commercial grade roll roofing. Do I just cut a slit in that to put my flashing under and then seal it to he'll and back?

 

[Nosmo]

I am installing my wood stove this weekend. I got the ceiling support kit from lowes and all of the necessary installation stuff.

I was wondering if any of you guys have any tips for me?

It is a freestanding EPA certified stove. There is 3 feet between the ceiling and the roof. The roofing on this section of the house is a commercial grade roll roofing material. There is not much pitch to it. I am pretty comfy doing everything except for cutting a hole in my roof and installing the flashing and sealing it.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.:msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin:

A few years ago I bought a kit from Lowes (for installation from the ceiling through the attic and onto the roof). I'd be sure the flashing kit will work for the pitch of your roof. The one included in my kit worked only for lower pitch roofs (mine is at least 12/6). I had to modify the flashing to work with my installation.

When you begin flashing your opening on the roof I'd dry fit all pieces. Begin at the bottom of the opening and finish coming down (just like laying a roof). Now if it were me I'd lay down beads of tar an inch or so wide and then set the flashing down on it. I'd use roofing nails to secure it and them a dab of tar on top each nail.

You should be well weatherproofed now above the roofline.

Nosmo

 

[tbow388]

Stove and Stuff

Here is the stove and install stuff.

 

[andydodgegeek]

You can call me a hillbilly if you want but when I installed my stove in my garage I used my .22 pistol to make my holes in my ceiling and roof. They were definately lined up. Then I used a hole jig my neighbor had to cut the holes in the tin. It called for a .25 pilot so my .22 worked slick. My neighbor couldn't stop laughing but it did work slick and its fun to use a gun as a tool.

 

[tbow388]

When you begin flashing your opening on the roof I'd dry fit all pieces. Begin at the bottom of the opening and finish coming down (just like laying a roof). Now if it were me I'd lay down beads of tar an inch or so wide and then set the flashing down on it. I'd use roofing nails to secure it and them a dab of tar on top each nail.

You should be well weatherproofed now above the roofline.

Nosmo

Nosmo

I have a low pitch at this point of the roof. The flashing I got in the kit is for a low pitch.

I was going to go under the roofing at top and above it down bottom. I had heard that you seal / tar the sides and top but not the bottom so any moisture can come out. Is that a correct way of thinking?

 

[NDtreehugger]

All that sounds like a lot of work.

I went out the wall and up, tied into the fascia and studs, done.
I will be going up another 3 foot section, sometimes when the wind blows,
Smoke and heat contact the roof.
I was told the heat from wood stoves can make the shingles curl.

Years later I still think it was a wise decision to go through the wall.

 

[Henry and Wanda]

Hello,
I couldn't see from the pictures of the items you bought to do the job.......did you get the square metal box that extends down into the room a little and then the rest of it is up in the attic ????? I think they are 24" long, about 12" or so square. The pipe from below attaches to it and also the double wall pipe that goes through your roof. The box keeps anything (including insulation) away from the double wall pipe in the attic. It's a safety thing !



Henry and Wanda

 

[tbow388]

Oh Henry

Henry

The kit that comes with the black box is for a cathedral ceiling. I got the Regular ceiling kit.