Is this jug toast? 394xp cylinder

[IanB22]

So she leaned out, not sure why, but probably my fault (per usual).

Anyway, just wondering how far gone this is as I have never evaluated one before.

So, I have a new piston on the shelf, just put the piston shot in there to help people see the damage.

It's only on the exhaust side, but I can feel some slight grooves, but can't 'catch' my fingernail on them. Is this scotch-bright serviceable. I use the saw for milling.

Thanks
Ian


394xp w/ 33" & 42" Bars - Full Comp Full Chisel - 36" Granberg Alaskan Mill
455 Rancher w/ 20" Bar - Semi Chisel
Husqvarna Forestry Helmet & Full Wrap Chaps

 

[boxygen]

looks salvageable.

 

[Landmark]

I would clean it up and reevaluate.

 

[pioneerguy600]

It might clean up, give it a go and show us some more picts. Only concern I have is the light grey area above the exhaust port, may be nothing but won`t know til its cleaned up more.

 

[IanB22]

What do you use to clean it up? Scotch brite or light Emory cloth?


394xp w/ 33" & 42" Bars - Full Comp Full Chisel - 36" Granberg Alaskan Mill
455 Rancher w/ 20" Bar - Semi Chisel
Husqvarna Forestry Helmet & Full Wrap Chaps

 

[kz1000]

I've never seen a cylinder that looked that good along side a piston that looks like it came out of a nuke plant.

 

[gaspipe]

I'd think a bit of muriatic on a q-tip to clean away the aluminum transferred to the cylinder would be worthwhile to see if the plating is all still there. The cylinder doesn't look that bad. But like KZ said, that piston looks like it dropped in from orbit a tad fast.

 

[pioneerguy600]

What do you use to clean it up? Scotch brite or light Emory cloth?


394xp w/ 33" & 42" Bars - Full Comp Full Chisel - 36" Granberg Alaskan Mill
455 Rancher w/ 20" Bar - Semi Chisel
Husqvarna Forestry Helmet & Full Wrap Chaps

Most on here use both wet 320 grit paper and Scotchbrite.

 

[Big_Wood]

Most on here use both wet 320 grit paper and Scotchbrite.

curious if you use acid Jerry? i've tried using just sandpaper back when i was 7 but i don't have enough free time in my life to do it that way. i clean the jug with dish soup and rinse with full blast hot from the tap. let cylinder sit there for a bit under hot watter then pull it out, dry fast, and apply acid. transfer smokes something fierce and comes off like nothing. wuick go over with 100g, rinse, repeat if necessary. once done rinse and a light hone with my special blend of hone lube. cylinders come out looking like they just came fresh out of the factory.

 

[AKDoug]

These things are the **** for the final polish up. http://abrasives4sale.com/scuff_balls.htm

I start with 220 grit wrapped around a mandrel in my drill to sand it off first.

 

[IanB22]

Thanks for the great responses, looks like I am heading out for some 220 and some Mur. Acid. Will post results and re-assembly later today. Crossing fingers for the best.


394xp w/ 33" & 42" Bars - Full Comp Full Chisel - 36" Granberg Alaskan Mill
455 Rancher w/ 20" Bar - Semi Chisel
Husqvarna Forestry Helmet & Full Wrap Chaps

 

[MGoBlue]

I brought this one back:


To this:


Before you use acid, spend some quality time reading http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/

 

[pioneerguy600]

curious if you use acid Jerry? i've tried using just sandpaper back when i was 7 but i don't have enough free time in my life to do it that way. i clean the jug with dish soup and rinse with full blast hot from the tap. let cylinder sit there for a bit under hot watter then pull it out, dry fast, and apply acid. transfer smokes something fierce and comes off like nothing. wuick go over with 100g, rinse, repeat if necessary. once done rinse and a light hone with my special blend of hone lube. cylinders come out looking like they just came fresh out of the factory.

Never have, personally I use a different method but it takes experience than most on here don`t have so I never post it. A good method is to make up spring cylinders and wrap machine paper over them, a couple of revolutions on a power drill and the cylinder looks much better. Also flap drums sized to fit the cylinder that is being cleaned up work great, same for the Scotchbrite drums for final cleanup. Be very careful honing nicasil right?

 

[JC360]

So she leaned out, not sure why, but probably my fault (per usual).

Anyway, just wondering how far gone this is as I have never evaluated one before.

So, I have a new piston on the shelf, just put the piston shot in there to help people see the damage.

It's only on the exhaust side, but I can feel some slight grooves, but can't 'catch' my fingernail on them. Is this scotch-bright serviceable. I use the saw for milling.

Thanks
Ian


394xp w/ 33" & 42" Bars - Full Comp Full Chisel - 36" Granberg Alaskan Mill
455 Rancher w/ 20" Bar - Semi Chisel
Husqvarna Forestry Helmet & Full Wrap Chaps

Maybe just the lighting, but that baby looks reeeaaally dry.

 

[Big_Wood]

Never have, personally I use a different method but it takes experience than most on here don`t have so I never post it. A good method is to make up spring cylinders and wrap machine paper over them, a couple of revolutions on a power drill and the cylinder looks much better. Also flap drums sized to fit the cylinder that is being cleaned up work great, same for the Scotchbrite drums for final cleanup. Be very careful honing nicasil right?

if a guy saw the way my jugs turned out he'd understand that i am doing minimal impact on the plating. sand paper does more damage then the way i do it. i've tried it every which way way before i joined here and am 100% convinced that there is no way to do it that is easier on the plating. when i compare almost every honed jug done by someone else the crosshatch is deep like they used 2 cycle oil as hone lube or something. my special mixture of hone lube lets the stones just touch the cylinder walls making the crosshatch look light and clean just like when it comes from the factory. done 100's of cylinders and never had a problem.

 

[Magnum783]

if a guy saw the way my jugs turned out he'd understand that i am doing minimal impact on the plating. sand paper does more damage then the way i do it. i've tried it every which way way before i joined here and am 100% convinced that there is no way to do it that is easier on the plating. when i compare almost every honed jug done by someone else the crosshatch is deep like they used 2 cycle oil as hone lube or something. my special mixture of hone lube lets the stones just touch the cylinder walls making the crosshatch look light and clean just like when it comes from the factory. done 100's of cylinders and never had a problem.

Are you willing share or is it classified. Most and i do say most are open to learning new things. I know I am for sure.

 

[JC360]

if a guy saw the way my jugs turned out he'd understand that i am doing minimal impact on the plating. sand paper does more damage then the way i do it. i've tried it every which way way before i joined here and am 100% convinced that there is no way to do it that is easier on the plating. when i compare almost every honed jug done by someone else the crosshatch is deep like they used 2 cycle oil as hone lube or something. my special mixture of hone lube lets the stones just touch the cylinder walls making the crosshatch look light and clean just like when it comes from the factory. done 100's of cylinders and never had a problem.

Shane, can this be used safely on a chromed cylinder?(poulan 4400)

 

[Big_Wood]

well if you go up to my previous post you will see how i make the acid react faster. clean jug with dish soup/hot water, then rinse in full blast hot under tap, dry fast, and apply acid as soon as dry. the heat from the water is't as hot as a torch but it heats the whole jug evenly. my hone lube is very simple and i only stumbled upon it by accident. was trying new thing and had just did a tranny oil change in my NV4500 5 speed. those tranny's require a friction modifier in the oil and i had some left so mixed a bit of it with some regular mineral 10w-40. mix her up and hone. if you have a cordless drill you must have it on speed 1 and don't use all the speed available. like 3/4's. move hone up and down bore a few times slowly then do it fast for the finishing strokes to get your 45 degree crosshatch. with this honing mixture it leaves plenty of room for accidentally overdoing it. you will notice that if you don't do it long enough it will hardly leave any marks on the cylinder. if you new to it do it quick over and over until you get to the desired factory looking bore. once you do it a bunch like i have you just have it timed in your brain how long you have to do it. of course, a must that anyone should not mix up is a hone is not for removing transfer. the jugs i do don't have a bit of transfer in them by the time the hone goes in. the hone just refreshes the crosshatch for break in which i don't care what anyone says, all engines need it for an efficient break in. the factory don't crosshatch a cylinder because it's a fun thing to do or because they want to waste money adding that to their manufacturing line.

 

[Big_Wood]

Shane, can this be used safely on a chromed cylinder?(poulan 4400)

everytime most cylinders are chromed as far as i know. nikisil didn't come in til later.

 

[Big_Wood]

i'm also not telling anyone to do it a certain way. it takes years to find out what way you like best. i like my way cause cylinders come out looking factory finished.