Is this (pic) transplant shock, help!

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I think it is fair to say that, having contacted him by phone and email, "my arborist" has ghosted me.
Thinking back over the tree work he has done for me in the past, this is probably for the best. His mistakes, bizarre logic and poor communication have left me reminded of what it is like to have a bad doctor. Doctors, according to an article in JAMA, are the third leading cause of death. At $95 each for 6' nellies, if I lose a couple I can make up for that with what I learn.

Indeed, it seems as if the 2 hollies in the backyard (out of 11) are in soil which holds too much water around the rootball. As it rains the browning of the leaves worsens. And the diagram that is my user icon to the left is not apparently suited to all soil types. Or, so I guess.
 
I think it is fair to say that, having contacted him by phone and email, "my arborist" has ghosted me.
Thinking back over the tree work he has done for me in the past, this is probably for the best. His mistakes, bizarre logic and poor communication have left me reminded of what it is like to have a bad doctor. Doctors, according to an article in JAMA, are the third leading cause of death. At $95 each for 6' nellies, if I lose a couple I can make up for that with what I learn.

Indeed, it seems as if the 2 hollies in the backyard (out of 11) are in soil which holds too much water around the rootball. As it rains the browning of the leaves worsens. And the diagram that is my user icon to the left is not apparently suited to all soil types. Or, so I guess.
So you're thinking root rot is the problem? That would explain the rotten vegetation smell.
 
So you're thinking root rot is the problem? That would explain the rotten vegetation smell.
I'm not sure about root rot as yet. I can't get a read on how fast over watering causes root rot. I'm guessing that leaves could show symptoms of too much water even before the roots are compromised by rot.
 
After studying a week, "leaf scorch" is the term I am finding for the leaves turning yellow, brown, falling off, and even dying. Winter cold can do this, or also, transplant shock weakens a plant this size making it vulnerable to other stresses. Over watering can be a common reaction to the initial symptoms, which makes the problem worse. Here (pic) is another persons experience of planting a 7' holly.

Their post was addressed by an arborist, "We believe that this is mostly an establishment issue. Seven foot trees are large trees with a limited amount of roots. There could have been some root injury at the time of transplant, or desiccation injury, which is not uncommon on broad leaved evergreens during the winter. Sometimes called 'winter burn', it is just the drying out of leaves due to wind or winter cold, even more likely if the root system can't keep the leaves hydrated. We don't think you tree looks bad. You should be sure to monitor and water them if we don't get about an inch of rain a week for the next year. (Can put a tuna can out to measure). That mulch should only be 2-3 inches deep, and pull it back from being in direct contact with the trunk. Once they start growing again, the trees will push out new growth to cover the old damage, which will eventually fall."

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""Leaf scorch" most often represents the reaction of a plant to an unfavorable environment. Though there might be multiple reasons for this condition to develop, it frequently is the result of an inadequate water supply. Cool temperatures and abundant rainfall in spring and early summer followed by hot, dry weather sets the stage for this disorder to show itself, especially on newly planted trees and shrubs."

"After being taken up by the roots, water movement within a plant occurs in vascular tissue called 'xylem.' Anything that disrupts water uptake and/or movement can result in leaf scorch. In short, the disorder develops when water is lost from the leaves of a plant faster than it can be replaced. As a result, leaf cells dehydrate and die in areas of the leaf where water becomes depleted. This usually occurs first on the outer edges and spreads inward toward the midrib. The leaves may then either partially or completely dry up and turn brown."

"Plants with rapidly growing shoots may express the same problem which results in the death of an entire shoot or branch. This type of "branch dieback," however, should not be confused with dieback caused by diseases or insects. When dieback is caused by either of the latter, additional and more specific evidence usually is present that helps to identify the offending pathogen or insect pest. For example, dieback caused by the feeding of beetle larvae such as the emerald ash borer or Asian longhorned beetle usually is accompanied by "exit holes" in tree trunk bark."

"The first apparent symptom of scorch is a slight yellowing of the leaves, especially along their edges or between their veins. As the problem becomes more severe, the yellow areas die and turn brown. Gradually, the leaf may develop more and more dead, brown tissue until the leaves totally dies while still attached to the tree. The area of brown tissue may increase more rapidly when the plant in question is exposed to prolonged hot and dry conditions."

"When plants suddenly wilt and leaves turn brown totally and abruptly without dropping from the tree, most often the root system of the tree has died. Newly transplanted trees and shrubs are most likely to experience this problem, since their root system is often reduced during transplanting. The likelihood for leaf scorch is increased with improper transplanting procedures. These include digging a hole too small for the root ball, leaving the wire cage or other constricting material around the root ball, planting the root ball too deep, and improper watering following transplanting. Such practices retard the development of new roots soon after transplanting, resulting in scorch with the arrival of hot or dry weather."

"Other conditions also can lead to leaf scorch. Very wet weather followed by drought can be particularly damaging. Excess water leads to a lack of oxygen in the root zone which results in root suffocation. This occurs deep in the soil, while very dry weather leads to the death of roots near the soil surface. When root loss of this type is compounded with damage done to the plant by diseases, insects or people, scorch and dieback often appears very suddenly and dramatically."

"Prevention is the best cure for leaf scorch and branch dieback. Although no one can control the weather, there are several things that can be done to help overcome the stress of weather extremes. Start with proper fertilization, since it will improve the overall vigor and health of plants. It is important to choose the right fertilizer analysis, the proper timing for application and the amount applied. Fertilizers are salts, excessive fertilization is detrimental since excessive salinity in the root zone will pull moisture away from the tissues, leaving roots unable to function properly. Additionally, protecting plants from insect and disease pests will help reduce stress."

"Proper watering is key in preventing leaf scorch. Ironically, too little or too much water both can cause scorch symptoms to occur. In the case of too much water (as mentioned above), excessive moisture will force oxygen from the soil pores that normally hold it, creating anaerobic conditions. The latter is not conducive to new root development and can lead to a toxic root environment. As a general rule, less frequent but thorough watering will help induce the development of a deep root system better able handle occasional drought events."

"Tree trunks also are subject to injury mechanical in origin or from diseases that can interfere with water and nutrient movement throughout the plant. Check for loose bark or slightly depressed, darkened areas. Borers or other insects in tree trunks or limbs may also lead to abnormal leaf drop, branch dieback or leaf scorch. Look for small holes with sawdust-like material coming from them. If damage is not too advanced, appropriate pesticides may help to stop the work of insects or diseases and reduce further injury."

"Normally, increasing the vigor of a tree or shrub can help to stimulate good growth and repair damage that has been done. Watering during dry periods and fertilizing in fall or early spring may help trees and shrubs survive and speed the healing process. When a tree or shrub loses all of its leaves in midsummer, there is little hope for survival. This especially is true when leaves dry without dropping from the plant and continue to hang on until branches become dead and brittle."

"If plants need to be replaced, give careful consideration to the location. Poor locations are often responsible for poor root development which, in turn, can increase the likelihood of leaf scorch. Shallow, rocky soils are a perpetual problem and careful watering each year may be the only means for maintaining large plants through drought periods. Tight soils, which usually are accompanied by poor drainage, also limit the development of roots that may lead to future problems. Some plants are better able to endure stress as young plants but have increasing difficulty absorbing sufficient amounts of water as they become larger. Therefore, scorch and dieback may appear on old established plants as well as those that have been newly planted."

https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2021/8/leafScorch-DT/
 
Over watered? Possibly herbicide contamination in soil? I would definitely call the arborist that supplied them. jmho :cool:
Welcome to the forum. :)

Given that all the roots are cut off 3 days ago, herbicide seems rather unlikely.

That would take some horribly toxic soil to have that effect.
 
I planted (8) 6' Nellie Stevens Holly which were harvested by spade 3 days prior
and this is happening to one of them? How to treat, is it recoverable, should
I have my arborist supply me another under warranty? thnks, Newbi

Given that the other 7 trees are not having the same problem, I would speculate that the root ball for that particular plant was crushed or dropped during the transplant. Bang up the root ball too much and the fine roots get sheared off and the plant fails quickly. I've seen it and done it.

Unless the plant was totally ignored for "after care", you probably couldn't do anything else to the tree that would cause that appearance in just 3 days.

Ask for a warranty replacement. Put it in writing, so that when it is totally dead 4 months from now, they don't try telling you that you failed to water it.
 
... FYI, during delivery he was dropping the 6' spade harvested hollies with the fork lift by tipping the forks back until the carrying strap slid down the forks and broke, repeatedly. It was driving me insane. Maybe this is the one he dropped twice and it was damaged. ...Perhaps also explaining my reluctance to have him back out.

Yes. That will do it.
 
I provided my "arborist" a time-stamped photo by email as soon as this happened, so there is a permanent record of the date of this hollies death/deterioration. Having told him by phone that I sent him this email, he ghosted me...HONESTLY, I don't want him back on my property...out of (11) this happened to (1). He has done and said many things that are "simple," like dropping the hollies with the fork lift, and always has been difficult to communicate with. Truly conscientious professionals are a gift from God, straight up. My approach to how my ideas and plans intersect with the world is to try to make sure I keep learning. To be clear, he placed the hollies next to the holes that I had dug and I slide them in and backfilled them.

I am focused on helping the other hollies settle in. I water them with 5 gallons in the mornings when the soil on top of the root ball has dried out a fair bit and hardens a bit, so about 2x per week, plus about .5 inch per week rain. The theory here, as described in the above posts, is that deep watering allows for oxygen at the roots if allowed to dry out a bit between waterings, compared to the idea of simply 5 gals everyday, for example. I have not mulched yet until I become confident with the rate of watering as I am paranoid about over watering due to the plant not being able to dry and get enough oxygen. I have some leaf yellowing as customary for this time of year on (1) and some green leaf drop on the others, but overall they look pretty good. As with the older hollies on my property, I will be allowing these to spread and assume a more natural form rather than pruning them into a cone, as they are now. Also, I don't want to have to water them in perpetuity.

I appreciate everyone's input.
 
help me understand what people mean when they talk about the roots needing oxygen
 
Well, per your suggestion, I've done a little more research. I think I wasn't wrong, but it was certainly a mistake when I tried to oversimplify the relationship between plant roots and oxygen in the soil.

Oxygen plays a more pivotal role in nutrient absorption in the root zone than I had previously believed, and the plants still engage in active transport of oxygen from the root zone. They aren't saving or translocating much of the oxygen released by their photosynthetic parts above the ground. The trees are still releasing some O² into the root zone and absorbing CO², just not enough. I read that as much as 3/4 of the energy used by the plant occurs in the root zone and that energy "burning" is where the oxygen becomes important.

There is a process that is described in most High School biology courses called "cellular respiration". In this biochemical pathway, oxygen is combined with sugars to release energy, somewhat the reverse of the photosynthesis reactions that capture the sun's energy to make sugars. That chemical energy is then used to assemble all the other parts of the plant. Cellular respiration is more active in the root zone than I had been aware of, and this respiration isn't too much different than a human's need for oxygen. In the same way that our lungs don't transpire enough oxygen when filled with water, the water completely immersing the roots will have a similar effect on the tree through the elimination of pores present in the soil. This is the primary reason many plants don't tolerate clay soils too well: the air pockets in the soil are few and far between. While I knew that cellular respiration occurred all over the tree, I was erroneously assuming that the trees were translocating their excess oxygen to wherever it was needed by the plant.

The disproportionate need of the roots for energy consumption is why oxygen is needed in the root zone. After all, it takes energy to suck up all that water and soil nutrients, and oxygen is the fan that burns sugars to drive those essential functions.

I suspect that the excess water is also interfering with the survival of the microbiota that contribute to the well being of the plants. Some trees happily grow with their roots submerged in water, others cannot tolerate wet soil except periodically.
 
Much thanks for your candid input...my developing understanding is that excessive moisture is also favorable to the bad bacteria, etc
 
Yes.
When the tree sucks all the oxygen out of the soil because all the pores are filled with water, a condition exists where plant pathogens that don't need any oxygen begin to thrive. They are called "anaerobes", and this is when they get to begin munching on the tree and stealing it's energy, or perhaps just the energy of the dying microbiome that cannot survive without a bit more O².

There is a similar condition for humans and medicine, where someone's limb begins to rot because it isn't getting enough oxygen due to a restricted blood flow. We call it gangrene, mostly caused by an anaerobic bacterium called Clostridium perfringens. Another infamous anaerobe is Claustridium tentani, which is why your doctor tried to give you a tetanus shot every time you step on a nail.

Basically, those nasty little anaerobes are not good for the plants, any more than they are for the humans. So... Don't keep your plants soggy unless they come from the swamp.

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Regarding the (10) hollies that are not failing the way the (1) did, I am erring in the direction of too little water rather than too much. If a bit more leaf drop occurs due to low watering during this period of shock it seems curative compared to the oxygen deprivation that could result from over-watering. That is, fewer leaves better match the root destruction that occurred when spaded, as in the balance shown in the above equation. Some people talk about pruning to create this equation balance. It seems like the tree creates this balance itself with leaf drop and that people react toward over watering.

Check this out... The way the (1) holly looked when it died was brown leaves rapidly spread over 100% of the plant. On the other (10) I only see similar brown leaves where the stem was broken during binding or transport.

5 gallons 2X per week seems to address what the "finger-test" reveals about soil dampness on top of the root ball and allow o2 to prevail during the cycles of dryness, compared to watering every day. For me, (newbi), It is stressful to see even minor leaf drop, but I'm guessing that cannot be stopped until the roots recover. I'm afraid to increase the watering amount and frequency.

What do you think about watering schedules now in light of the above research that you have done?
 
This next week we have a high of 70 (deg). Monday is a high of 50, and evening lows about 20 deg below those numbers. May is mostly upper 70s. Occasionally we get a high of 83. By August I'd like these hollies to be settled into their new reality as they recover. I would have preferred to have started this a month earlier. I'm biased now, however, in favor of "container grown" as they seem to go through less stress.

I appreciate your input.
 
The way I see it, this forum has many more tree trimmers than landscrapers. The whole question of "why is one of my freshly transplanted trees dying" was a pretty easy question to answer. If one out of 8 is dying, you need to look at how that one has been treated differently than the other 7. Dropping the root ball is a pretty easy thing to do, and a common cause of failure.
 
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