It ends today!

[Bushmans]

Congrats Spidey!
Merry Christmas.

 

[Dalmatian90]

Am I the only one watching A Christmas Story and seeing Whitespider as the father fighting with the furnace?

 

[beerbelly]

Am I the only one watching A Christmas Story and seeing Whitespider as the father fighting with the furnace?

Gigiggin frig morkar by welkor son of a great balls of...$^#&#($*#^#&$*$*$@!!!!!

 

[greendohn]

Something like the Riteway Model 37 would be a lot better to fool around with.

Ash pan plus 7.5 cubic ft. firebox!

Wood Stove/Outdoor Furnace



I've got one I bought new in 1979 sitting in the shop out back.

Almost identical to the one I have in my go-rodge.

 

[greendohn]

You go get 'em, Spidey!! You've wanted a grate in that thing and mulled over the fact since the virtues of such an act was debated in another thread a while back! Gald to hear the preliminary results are to yer satisfaction,,:msp_w00t:

Now,,,what say the "Naysayers" from the thread when the grate was debated? otstir:

 

[Steve NW WI]

You go get 'em, Spidey!! You've wanted a grate in that thing and mulled over the fact since the virtues of such an act was debated in another thread a while back! Gald to hear the preliminary results are to yer satisfaction,,:msp_w00t:

Now,,,what say the "Naysayers" from the thread when the grate was debated? otstir:

I wasn't really a naysayer before, just thought there should be a way to make it work right stock. The one concern I have is that now there's a lot of heat on the floor of the stove, where it was protected by the brick before. That could be a longevity issue, possibly worked around with a piece of steel plate spaced up a little from the floor plate.

Might not be a problem, but something to think about.

 

[PEKS]

I wasn't really a naysayer before, just thought there should be a way to make it work right stock. The one concern I have is that now there's a lot of heat on the floor of the stove, where it was protected by the brick before. That could be a longevity issue, possibly worked around with a piece of steel plate spaced up a little from the floor plate.

Might not be a problem, but something to think about.

My PE works great stock..

 

[loadthestove]

Am I the only one watching A Christmas Story and seeing Whitespider as the father fighting with the furnace?

LOL,,Same thing run thru my mind while wife and I was watching it this morning.

 

[redheadwoodshed]

Something like the Riteway Model 37 would be a lot better to fool around with.

Ash pan plus 7.5 cubic ft. firebox!

Wood Stove/Outdoor Furnace



I've got one I bought new in 1979 sitting in the shop out back.

I don't suppose you would pick that one up for me would you? I like that thing!

 

[AIM]

Or just end all the problems and get an OWB!oke:

 

[Chris-PA]

Strange - on my cheap US Stoves Magnolia I just let the wood be its own grate. I stack the bottom row logs end-on to the door, and the next row crosswise. If I put in a third row that alternates again and is end-on to the door. The airwash for the door comes down and flows underneath. Beats drilling holes.

 

[Hedgerow]

I'm glad to hear you left the secondary burn operable...
I always thought it was a bonus to burn the gasses that would otherwise roll up the flu...

 

[Whitespider]

I'm glad to hear you left the secondary burn operable...

I've never had any intentions of making it inoperable. I've admitted from day one that "when" the secondary is active this box makes more heat than the old box did... but it is/was comparatively short lived. The problem, as I see it, is that once the secondary burn stops those vents are feeding air into the box not being used efficiently by the fire... and probably even serves to cool the box during the "coal" stage. My thoughts were to disconnect the secondary air control from the primary, so it could be controlled independently including being totally closed later in the burn cycle... and I may still do that. But for now... no further mods until a get a good feel for how it's working with the current mods.

So far, so good... not perfect, but no complaints (yet?).
It does appear, because if limited room, I will need to lift the front grate every 2 to 4 days (depending on demand useage) and push ashes down the clean-out. The improvement so far has been what I'm removing... just fine ash instead of unburnt charcoal or hot coals.

 

[brenndatomu]

So how 'bout an update on the modded "EPA" wood gobbler?

 

[Whitespider]

I'll haf'ta get back with you tonight, I'm just heading out on the road for an emergency repair... hope it don't involve climbing a tower today.

 

[Whitespider]

Installing the grate worked real well; more complete burns and longer heating time, but it was a huge PITA to lift the grate and clean under it everyday. And it was near impossible to time burns so it could be cleaned when I was home. Problem was… if I didn’t clean it, and it filled with ashes under the grate, it just reverted to the same crap. So I decided to try a different tact.

My two biggest complaints…

1. When the secondary burn shut down the amount of heat transferred to the air being forced through the plenum was greatly reduced… cut by at least half.
2. When the fire collapsed into a bed of coals all the heat transfer stopped… adding more fuel just built a deeper coal bed until there wasn’t any room for wood. And as more ash mixed with the coals, the problem just got worse. I was throwing out pounds of potential heat to make room for more fuel… and I was using more wood than the old smoke dragon ever did.

I decided to work on problem #1 first, improving the heat transfer. I put the firebrick back in the floor (which blocked the holes I drilled) and removed it from the side and back walls. The improvement was more than surprising… the plenum air now stays hot long after the secondary shuts down, and well into the coaling stage. The firebrick was simply insulating the firebox walls too much… the air being forced through the plenum was sinking heat faster than the brick would allow it to get to the steel. I realize that running without firebrick lining the walls they could possibly warp/crack, but the forced air through the plenum is also removing heat at a rapid rate… I’m thinking it’s pretty close to a wash (will need to be careful not to over-fire). I did cut my brick so there is about 2-inches of brick on the walls to keep the coal bed from making direct contact… it’s sort’a like shallow “pan” of brick in the bottom now. All-in-all, I’m extremely satisfied with the heat transfer improvement.

Removing the brick from the side and back walls also increased firebox capacity a little… and to increase it even more I cut off the heavy steel “tabs” hanging down from the upper side and back rails (intended to retain the brick against the walls). So just by removing firebrick (and tabs) from the walls I greatly improved heat transfer to the air being forced into the ductwork, and increased firebox capacity… a win-win.

Problem #2, the ever deepening coal bed, ain’t so simple to overcome… although it ain’t as bad now because I get significantly better heat transfer during the early part of the coaling stage. Ideally, putting air under the coals, by using a grate, is the ultimate solution… but, because this firebox ain’t really designed for it, other irritations were created. What I’ve learned to do is to keep as much ash cleaned out as possible… every morning and evening I push the ash from the front of the firebox (where it gets air and consumes the fuel) down the cleanout before I pull the coals forward from the rear (where they are not getting air). The other thing I (we) have to do is “babysit” the fire box; after the fire collapses into a bed of coals it is necessary to keep pushing the ash back and dragging the coals forward. That keeps the coals heating, and because I improved heat transfer we can get most of the coals burned down before adding more fuel… unless it’s real cold outside. The first time I (we) “stir” them it will sometimes even get the secondary started again… for just a short period. The problem is, as the coals burn down it requires “stirring” more and more often to keep them heating… as often as every half hour. It’s a real pain… the wife looked at me tonight when I got home and informed me she wants the old burner back, “babysitting” this one just “sucks.” And there’s still the problem with overnight burns because there ain’t nobody to “babysit” the damn thing, so it does cool off a little in here starting about 2-3:00 AM or so, especially if it’s real cold outside… sometimes down in the low 60’s by the time I crawl out of bed at 5:00 AM.

Things are better… but still a long ways from perfect.
I still blame the EPA design for the inefficient use of the coal bed. It’s damn ridiculous the air comes in from the top front, and exits from the top front also… how the hell is air ever supposed to get to the lower rear that way? Just flat stupid!

 

[AIM]

Not trying to shove an OWB down your throat but I am giving you a nudge to give one consideration.

You live in the sticks.
You spend long hours at work.
You have a readily available wood supply.
You seem handy enough to build your own saving many thousands $.
If nothing else you are a really good candidate for one.

I think you and the wife would really like an OWB.

Built right it's a twice a day load in the cold times and once a day in the moderate times. No more wood in the basement (open that up to store Christmas decorations :msp_biggrin

Start gathering up your steel and other components right now and you'll be ready to burn in the 2013-14 season for about $2500

Yes they do take more wood but you can cut bigger and split way less.

 

[Marc]

Installing the grate worked real well; more complete burns and longer heating time, but it was a huge PITA to lift the grate and clean under it everyday. And it was near impossible to time burns so it could be cleaned when I was home. Problem was… if I didn’t clean it, and it filled with ashes under the grate, it just reverted to the same crap. So I decided to try a different tact.

I hate being such a jerk, but I gotta do it. I think you mean "tack." Comes from sailing; the tack refers to which side of the boat is windward when you're beating upwind.

/dork off

 

[Whitespider]

Naw... you ain't a jerk Marc, and you're 100% correct.
The use of the word "tact" was a temporary mind lapse on my part (see, I ain't as perfect as I think I am ).
Oh... and we have a small two-man sail boat up at the summer lake home, so I have no excuse for the lapse.



I'll give OWB some thinking time AIM... but I wouldn't place any bets if'n I was you.

 

[Marc]

Naw... you ain't a jerk Marc, and you're 100% correct.
The use of the word "tact" was a temporary mind lapse on my part (see, I ain't as perfect as I think I am ).
Oh... and we have a small two-man sail boat up at the summer lake home, so I have no excuse for the lapse.

Nice! What is it? All I sail are dinghies, cause I can't afford anything bigger. Plus they're more fun.

This is me hanging off the trapeze on a Hobie 16... (blowing almost 20 kts)

And another one when the winds were a little calmer:

I love sailing that thing. Makes me yearn for warmer weather.