Jonsered 2055 with toooo much compression

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DEG305

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My j-red 2055 that I put a new piston in over two years ago and have cut a lot of firewood with still has way too much compression to start easily, great for running but extremly hard for a 71 year old(me)to start. would I be able to install a decomp valve in it without damaging the jug? I love this saw when its running but starting it is a pain.
 
Brad, if I sell this saw and replace it it will be for a j-red 2153 then pick your brain on how to get the most out of it!!:msp_smile:
 
My j-red 2055 that I put a new piston in over two years ago and have cut a lot of firewood with still has way too much compression to start easily, great for running but extremly hard for a 71 year old(me)to start. would I be able to install a decomp valve in it without damaging the jug? I love this saw when its running but starting it is a pain.

You could try installing a thicker cyl base gasket....to increase squish and lower the compression a bit.....just a thought and a whole lot easier than installing a decomp where there never was one...
 
you gotta go through the top of the cylinder for that. i've done for a few guys who have problems starting thenolder saw without the decomp valve. if you have access to a cylinder with a decomp valve look atbhow it's done and do it the same way. don't just drill right through with a drill bit as large as the threads are gonna be. i forget what sized i used. once you tap the hole and got it all set just drill a hole big enough in the top cover so the button will just fit with a bit of clearance. just be sure to stay away from the plug hole when drilling. i'm not even sure if there's enough room on the smaller saws. all the ones i've did it on were big bores. it can be done just copy what they do at the factory. thats what i did and they all workes great.
 
it's a process where if you mess it up it will cost you your cylinder so if you don't have confidence doing it stay away.
 
Maybe change your starting routine. Put it on the ground with one knee on the top cover - reach over and pull. It works for me on bigger motors as it's better leverage or muscle angle or something ...
 
I wonder if you're having the same problem I had with my MS440. Kick-back. I added a wider gap between the flywheel and coil, kick-back, gone! I'm also thinking, maybe change your method of starting. Sit the bar on a log etc., hold the rear handle with your right hand, start it with your left. It works REALLY easy that way. I'm old too and I need to find easier ways to do things.
 
Remove the carb, disassemble completely, ultrasonic clean or soak the carb in a carb cleaner solution over a day or two. Make sure all the plastic parts on the carb, if any, are not submersed in any strong solution. Rebuild with a new carb kit and it will start with less pulls and will likely have less what you call compression..............
 
Pull the muffler and look and see how much carbon is in there.Might be why comp is way up. My 2055 has over 200 psi stock/
Thicker base gasket will also help.
If you install a decomp,which it does has enough room for make sure you use a drill press.
I destroyed a good cylinder with a hand drill once.
2055 cylinders are like hens teeth to find.
 
Some cylinders have the boss cast into them for the compression release, but just arent drilled. If yours is this way, there is no reason you cant take the cylinder to a machine shop and have the release installed. All it requires is drilling and taping a hole but it needs to be done correctly.
 
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