Jonsered Chainsaws

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Every once in a while, I'll buy something that turns out to be a REALLY good, I mean it just stands out even better than it should be, like a car that I have with 252,000 miles on it that' never breaks and always works right. It even still has the original starter and alternator!

Well, I have a chainsaw like that, it just always works right, isn't fussy and it's for sure the best chainsaw I've ever owned. It's my Jonsered 2260,

IMG-2448-S.jpg


It's the only Jonsered I've ever owned, but I do have several Husqvarna chainsaws that I also like, the Jonsered just stands out...

SR
 
Does anyone know if a 621 piston will work in a 601? I'm replacing crank bearings in a 601 and because of the slop and rubbing the piston doesn't look great, I think it's usable but if I'd rather put something new in it if available.
 
Well......the piton kit part numbers are different but the wrist pin, rings and circlips are the same number as well as the bore the same size. I'm pretty sure they will swap. Same way with the 90 and the 910 piston kit....different part numbers but the exact same piston. A close inspection and accurate measuring will tell the tale.
 
Finally disassembled the 90 that's been patiently waiting its turn in line for about 5 years. 180 psi compression (with a beautiful piston and cylinder), but no spark. One of the filthier saws that I've worked on, too.

Fuel tank is pretty nasty; I may end up splitting the case just so I can clean it out really well before coating it. It's $50 for a quart of the Red-Kote stuff that I use for tanks. Would cost about the same to buy one of the 90 crankcases that Steve Kubek is selling on eBay, but I prefer to keep this one all original if I can.

Suspect the lack of spark will be rectified by cleaning the points. If not, I think I have enough spare bits to get it going.

I'm in need of crank seals. Haven't popped them out yet, so if anyone knows the size, please let me know.

Also, if anyone has a new or good used clutch for an 80 or a 90 (believe they're the same), I need one of those, too.

Has anyone run a 36" bar on a 90? Figure it can handle it in soft wood, but I've never tried. I have a 36" hard nose J-red bar left over from my 110 that didn't get sold with the saw.

The 80 is up next. Will probably get started on that tomorrow. That one has spark and 238 psi (!). May throw the spare full wrap that I have on that one.

I'll be selling both of these once they've been gone through (rings, carb kits, new fuel lines, etc). If anyone is in the market, please send me a message.
IMG_0997.JPG$_72.JPG
 
Dadgum 90 has a beautiful piston but I can't get the rings freed. They're stuck to the piston. What's crazy is that it had 180 psi compression when I tested it years ago. Not sure how.

Anyone have a good 90 piston? Or ideas on how to get rings un-stuck? Already tried Kroil and a heat gun.

EDIT: I'm good. Got the rings out without mangling the piston. Have a set of Cabers on the way.
 
80 is freshened up. I disassembled it, cleaned the carbon from the piston and jug, and re-assemble with the same rings and base gasket (it had 235 psi before I disassembled it, so I didn't want to monkey with that too much). New fuel lines, of course. Rebuilt the carb, too. Fuel tank got cleaned out and got a coat of Red-Kote to seal it up. Also installed some NOS AV rubber. Clutch and flywheel removed, cleaned, points cleaned and adjusted, etc.

Tested the compression again. Same compression tester, which tests within a pound or two of my spare tester. Now it's at 242 psi. Pretty damn impressive.

Anyway, right now it's idling at about 2,800. I saw 11,700 on the tach on the top end (unloaded), too. Cut down one small tree (hardwood) and cut a few softwood cookies and I was quite impressed!

And then it quit oiling...

Checked oil level. Full. Removed front plug and adjustment screw, cleaned out some crud, adjusted (is 3 turns out about right?). Nothing. Hit oiler orifice with compressed air. No change. Checked to see if oiler line was still hooked up. Yep. Blew out oiler line from below. No change. Filled oil tank with fuel. Still not oiling. Tried without filter in place. Still no joy. Drained all oil and then noticed there was some debris in it. Damn. Liner inside oil tank was coming apart. That's likely what was clogging the filter and inlet. Used compressed air, acetone, and brake cleaner to get the tank cleaned out. Then filled tank with acetone and now it's oiling.

Now I just need to hook the oil line back up; it got unhooked when I was cleaning the tank out. Looks like I'll need to pull out my forceps; should be fun.
 
Got the line hooked up and it's oiling really well now!

And now I have another problem...

It seems finicky -- not easy to start at all, seems to flood easily, and while it seems to run well at high rpm, I'm all over the map on the idle adjustment and low speed jet. I'm thinking it's crank seals. What do y'all think? Anyone know what size crank seals an 80 takes? Wonder if these will work - https://www.ebay.com/itm/3843630305...cRJ-66XW-5loS2NkYKTM4FyuKdtTqzrBoCG90QAvD_BwE

Also wondering if I have some bad fuel; i'll try fresh fuel tomorrow before I go after crank seals.

IMG_8488.jpgIMG_8486.jpgIMG_8487.jpgIMG_8489.jpgIMG_8492.jpg
 
I think you may have damaged the trigger coil(?) while removing the flywheel?

You aren't alone on that if you did. It taught me to check for open or blind holes and to always turn the flywheel over slowly to check for clearance when the puller is bolted up.

I was able to solder the broken wires back together.

My 801 which is basically an 80 with a 90 cylinder and AF cover is the easiest starting saw I have despite the high compression.
 
fossil said:
I think you may have damaged the trigger coil(?) while removing the flywheel?

You aren't alone on that if you did. It taught me to check for open or blind holes and to always turn the flywheel over slowly to check for clearance when the puller is bolted up.

I was able to solder the broken wires back together.

My 801 which is basically an 80 with a 90 cylinder and AF cover is the easiest starting saw I have despite the high compression.
Click to expand...

Slight damage, but none of the wires are cut. I have a spare if needed.

Thanks
 
bulletpruf said:
Finally disassembled the 90 that's been patiently waiting its turn in line for about 5 years. 180 psi compression (with a beautiful piston and cylinder), but no spark. One of the filthier saws that I've worked on, too.

Fuel tank is pretty nasty; I may end up splitting the case just so I can clean it out really well before coating it. It's $50 for a quart of the Red-Kote stuff that I use for tanks. Would cost about the same to buy one of the 90 crankcases that Steve Kubek is selling on eBay, but I prefer to keep this one all original if I can.

Suspect the lack of spark will be rectified by cleaning the points. If not, I think I have enough spare bits to get it going.

I'm in need of crank seals. Haven't popped them out yet, so if anyone knows the size, please let me know.

Also, if anyone has a new or good used clutch for an 80 or a 90 (believe they're the same), I need one of those, too.

Has anyone run a 36" bar on a 90? Figure it can handle it in soft wood, but I've never tried. I have a 36" hard nose J-red bar left over from my 110 that didn't get sold with the saw.

The 80 is up next. Will probably get started on that tomorrow. That one has spark and 238 psi (!). May throw the spare full wrap that I have on that one.

I'll be selling both of these once they've been gone through (rings, carb kits, new fuel lines, etc). If anyone is in the market, please send me a message.
View attachment 981656View attachment 981657
Click to expand...
Scott-Late to the party. Since AS reconfigured, it didn't show me there's any activity here and dropped this thread from my bookmarks.

The 90 no doubt can run a 36" bar, .058 in 3/8" chain. But if using .058 in .404 chain, 32" bar is your limit. On the 80, you could probably run a 32" .058 bar with 3/8" chain, but 28" .058 bar with .404 chain.

If you think your carb is 100% and clean, then leaking seals are the logical problem. They should be replaced anyway as a matter of course in saws this old.....unless you know for sure it's been done. As Tim said, they start as fast as an electronic saw if everything is up to snuff. When my 90 is warmed up, you don't even have to pull the starter rope but about half way out and it starts......nice after a long day and I'm tired.....lol.

Poor muffler on that 80.....looks like a full-scale assault! What happens on a lot of these old saws is that gas was left in the tank too long and the paint inside is coming off and plugging everything. They painted the inside of the case just like the outside....there's no real 'liner'. Using like lacquer thinner inside with BB's will strip off all the old paint.

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
Scott-Late to the party. Since AS reconfigured, it didn't me there's any activity here and dropped this thread from my bookmarks.

The 90 no doubt can run a 36" bar, .058 in 3/8" chain. But if using .058 in .404 chain, 32" bar is your limit. On the 80, you could probably run a 32" .058 bar with 3/8" chain, but 28" .058 bar with .404 chain.

If you think your carb is 100% and clean, then leaking seals are the logical problem. They should be replaced anyway as a matter of course in saws this old.....unless you know for sure it's been done. As Tim said, they start as fast as an electronic saw if everything is up to snuff. When my 90 is warmed up, you don't even have to pull the starter rope but about half way out and it starts......nice after a long day and I'm tired.....lol.

Poor muffler on that 80.....looks like a full-scale assault! What happens on a lot of these old saws is that gas was left in the tank too long and the paint inside is coming off and plugging everything. They painted the inside of the case just like the outside....there's no real 'liner'. Using like lacquer thinner inside with BB's will strip off all the old paint.

Kevin
Click to expand...

Kevin - Are you sure on the liner? I'm pretty sure the 110 and 111S tanks I disassembled had some sort of coating. Pretty sure the 80 and 90 fuel tanks are lined, too.

Thanks for the details on the bars. I was running a 20" or so bar with 3/8" on the 80 yesterday and it sure felt like it could handle quite a bit more.

I'm working on getting another muffler for the 80. It's a real eyesore.

Scott
 
bulletpruf said:
Kevin - Are you sure on the liner? I'm pretty sure the 110 and 111S tanks I disassembled had some sort of coating. Pretty sure the 80 and 90 fuel tanks are lined, too.

Thanks for the details on the bars. I was running a 20" or so bar with 3/8" on the 80 yesterday and it sure felt like it could handle quite a bit more.

I'm working on getting another muffler for the 80. It's a real eyesore.

Scott
Click to expand...
Scott-Not sure on anything but death & taxes....lol. I've never seen anything but the Jonsereds paint in there. People that have split a lot of cases in these old saws like Robin & Eric could tell you more what they found in there.

My 80 runs a 28" bar all the time with .404 chain. My 90 runs a 32" bar all the time with the same chain. No sweat on either saw but they are at their maximum bar lengths for that chain(Oregon 68CJ).

Kevin
 

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