Jotul F600 Firelight air control sticking?

[coog]

I have a new Jotul 600.It is my third Jotul, having had an Oslo and a Nordic in other houses.That being said, I am still in the process of learning the ins and outs of this stove.Last night my wife called me at my son's football game saying that the air intake lever was stuck in the "low air" position.Well sure enough, no amount of wiggling would budge it.As it was in the low position, I left it for today.I pulled the two bolts on the cover, thinking that I would see something awry, but it was clean and seemingly in order.The slide seems to want to move away from the operator rather than from left to right.This causes it to bind enough that it can't be moved without fear of breakage.To me, it seems as though it should have some sort of limiter, or roller, that would force it to the right or left.Any one else encounter this? I called the dealer, who told me I was the first.He is sending someone over, but I am not optimistic he will see something that I don't.

 

[coog]

Thanks.I'm more concerned about it sticking in the "full air" position and getting an over-fire.
I am having a much easier time starting it now that I ignore the manual.I open the ash drawer, just a crack, until the fire is well underway.I watch the temp and never leave the room until I shut it.I know they have to write the manuals for idiots, but it would take hours of smouldering if I did it the way they suggest.
Someone earlier mentioned using graphite?

 

[coog]

Had the dealer over today.He ended up taking a pliers to the control rod and giving it a new bend.Works fine now.

 

[logbutcher]

Try powdered graphite ( used to unfreeze door locks ) inside the air box slider. Graphite doesn't seem to be sensitive to high temps. Used on a similar air control on the Oslo. The rod will jump the bar in the "closed" or low position if it is pushed too hard and catch.
Bill is in the mail.

 

[coog]

Thanks.I'll remember the tip should I need it.

 

[logbutcher]

Thanks.I'm more concerned about it sticking in the "full air" position and getting an over-fire.I am having a much easier time starting it now that I ignore the manual.I open the ash drawer, just a crack, until the fire is well underway.I watch the temp and never leave the room until I shut it.I know they have to write the manuals for idiots, but it would take hours of smouldering if I did it the way they suggest.
Someone earlier mentioned using graphite?

Yes, graphite man here ...seems to do the job for the sticking air control on the Oslo.
The non cats are what we call "mommie controls" :monkey: : you cannot shut the air off completely, or open it up completely to overfire. The engineering of these air controls is to prevent particulate pollution as well as monitoring too much and too little draft. TreeCo mentioned having a wad of alum foil or fiberglass ("fibreglass" for the Brit inclined) to shove into the rear air intake in the case of a runaway fire---we do.
The primary air in our present and past VC Encore cats can be shut near completely and in the full open can overfire.
The boss-- SWMBO--got us to use a timer when starting a load cycle in either the cat or non cat stove. Not a bad habit when you've got C.R.S. syndrome, and like the man said, the ash door is cracked for a morning and/or startup fire in either stove. :agree2:

 

[maul ratt]

New stove with the same problem

I just finished installing my Jotul Firelight last week and when I fired up the stove for the 3rd break-in fire, I noticed the lever sticking. It sticks near the far left as you move it from left to right. It never sticks going the other way. I tried jiggling it, pushing hard on it, and everything else with no luck. I read about this common problem with the Jotul on ********** and someone said he tapped the lever with the wood removable handle. I took a 1"x2" piece of pine and tapped it and it moved over like a charm. I still keep the stick handy. Hopefully it will be a problem that goes away. I still might try the graphite thing.

Can someone explain the graphite thing once again? Do you take the cover off right above the lever and spray powdered graphite in there? Anywhere else?

Thanks.

 

[cityevader]

My Jotul Tamarack sticks right in the middle.
I have some graphite I got from the motorcycle shop. It's initially a liquid, dries to a powder, with a long syringe type tip that I just aimed along the rod towards where it goes in....no more stick.

 

[Zodiac45]

Yes, graphite man here ...seems to do the job for the sticking air control on the Oslo.
The non cats are what we call "mommie controls" :monkey: : you cannot shut the air off completely, or open it up completely to overfire. The engineering of these air controls is to prevent particulate pollution as well as monitoring too much and too little draft. TreeCo mentioned having a wad of alum foil or fiberglass ("fibreglass" for the Brit inclined) to shove into the rear air intake in the case of a runaway fire---we do.
The primary air in our present and past VC Encore cats can be shut near completely and in the full open can overfire.
The boss-- SWMBO--got us to use a timer when starting a load cycle in either the cat or non cat stove. Not a bad habit when you've got C.R.S. syndrome, and like the man said, the ash door is cracked for a morning and/or startup fire in either stove. :agree2:

+1 Very good LB! Like the mommie stove coment. Sort of idiot proof. What in the world would one do without an ash pan door too open in the morning!

 

[slowroaster]

opposite problem

You guys might be able to help me- I don't need graphite as my air control lever is swinging left and right with no resistance except at the widest points.

I have a Jotul Kennebec 450. Had no problems with the air control lever and then all of the sudden (after an over night burn), I have a lever that seems to be "stuck" open, with no action from the lever.

Is it fairly straightforward to open the access panel and have a look? What should I expect to see?

Thanks in advance- I've only had this thing for about 2 weeks and was just getting the hang of closing down the air control... bummer.

 

[coog]

You guys might be able to help me- I don't need graphite as my air control lever is swinging left and right with no resistance except at the widest points.

I have a Jotul Kennebec 450. Had no problems with the air control lever and then all of the sudden (after an over night burn), I have a lever that seems to be "stuck" open, with no action from the lever.

Is it fairly straightforward to open the access panel and have a look? What should I expect to see?

Thanks in advance- I've only had this thing for about 2 weeks and was just getting the hang of closing down the air control... bummer.

Seems to be a problem with the new Jotuls.Go ahead and pull that cover, you'll see it is a simple mechanism.It has been suggested that you give the stuck handle a gentle rap with a piece of wood, so maybe try this first.I should point out that I have a 600, so there may be some differences. We ended up adjusting the lever by slightly bending it.I think I'll try the graphite as well.Good luck.

 

[slowroaster]

coog- thanks, I'll take a look. It just seemed odd to me that the lever itself would move freely, with no resistance (the lever itself isn't stuck). I'm generally not afraid to open things up and take a look, but this wan't an inexpensive purchase and I'm already sensing buyers remorse from the wife
Good to know others may be having similar issues.

 

[coog]

I guess I didn't understand your first post.Sounds as though the lever has become detached from the slide?A peek should confirm this, but if you are nervous about opening it up get your dealer over there.It is a big purchase,and you should be happy.I think you need to remind your wife(gently) that it is a lifetime investment and the benefits are many.You will save money, but you will also spend more time together as a family at the new center of your home.Good luck, and try to snap a picture of what you find.

 

[logbutcher]

FLASH FLASH ! Update. The air control works fine when there's some lube inside where it slides and you've opened the box to see if there is anything blocking the slide mechanism. I've tried white lithium grease ( it melts away with heat), PB Blaster ( the old loosener also burns off, and finally, the ever famous WD-40 which I sprayed into the lever 'hole' in a hot stove and got a beautiful flameback :angry2: . Do not do this at home.:hmm3grin2orange:
Do any of the brighthead geek engineers or mechanics here know of a high temp grease that will 'stay' grease at high temps, melt or burn off ? Brand name , or if such a beast exists ? It has to be rated to 600-800 F .

 

[cityevader]

FLASH FLASH ! Update. The air control works fine when there's some lube inside where it slides and you've opened the box to see if there is anything blocking the slide mechanism. I've tried white lithium grease ( it melts away with heat), PB Blaster ( the old loosener also burns off, and finally, the ever famous WD-40 which I sprayed into the lever 'hole' in a hot stove and got a beautiful flameback :angry2: . Do not do this at home.:hmm3grin2orange:
Do any of the brighthead geek engineers or mechanics here know of a high temp grease that will 'stay' grease at high temps, melt or burn off ? Brand name , or if such a beast exists ? It has to be rated to 600-800 F .

I just did a google search under their "shopping" sub-section and typed in "graphite lube" and came up with several types. Graphite has a melting point of over 3600*F. Whether in a spray can (if it has a plastic tube for the nozzle) or a syringe type applicator, it starts out as a liquid for application, but dries soon to a powdered lubricant that stays around a looong time.

 

[slowroaster]

I guess I didn't understand your first post.Sounds as though the lever has become detached from the slide?A peek should confirm this, ....

Exactly right coog! I opened it up and the air control lever had disengaged from the slide plate (sorry, no picture). The air control lever had some vertical play in it which seemed to be the problem. I pulled out the blowers and tightened the screw holding the air control lever in place. Oddly, the left-right action of the lever seemed to loosen the screw (bad design?). I cranked on it a bit and it felt better. At least I know this is an easy fix. And I learned a little more about air flow through the stove as well. The slide plate seemed to slide very easily back and forth, but if that locks up I'll know what to do then as well. Thanks for the tips folks.

 

[coog]

Glad it worked.If it happens again I'd try a dab of loctite on that screw.

 

[Booshcat]

Exactly right coog! I opened it up and the air control lever had disengaged from the slide plate (sorry, no picture). The air control lever had some vertical play in it which seemed to be the problem. I pulled out the blowers and tightened the screw holding the air control lever in place. Oddly, the left-right action of the lever seemed to loosen the screw (bad design?). I cranked on it a bit and it felt better. At least I know this is an easy fix. And I learned a little more about air flow through the stove as well. The slide plate seemed to slide very easily back and forth, but if that locks up I'll know what to do then as well. Thanks for the tips folks.

I had the same problem with my kennebec.
When the stove is shipped I think a good knock will cause that lever to pop up, and out of the slot in the plate.
The installers should know to check this, but mine didn't.
Glad you are all set...you can go through a lot of wood without the ability to damp down the air !!!!

 

[logbutcher]

Oslo Update II

Another update on the sticking air control. A friend who is aDiesel Engineer told me about grease/lubricants that are rated for high temperature use. The local hardware store had Permatex Anti-Sieze Lubricant rated to 1600 F. $3.50 for 4 oz with a cap brush for slathering on the faces. The control works well....we'll see when it goes cold again. Remember that the spray cans have a flammable propellant. That's attorney talk.

 

[Wirenut2266]

Great post.....

Reading all the responses to a minor problem is sweet. Alot of input/knowledge shared here....That's all