J'Red CS2171 / Husky 372 Vibration at Idle

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AlfA01

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Just acquired a J'Red 2171 via the Interweb. It is a clean saw and runs pretty good, but seems to have a wicked vibration at idle. It vibrates the carb so much that I can't keep my screwdriver in the slot to adjust the H and L screws.

Took the top end off and everything appears okay. Rod end play is good, piston isn't scored or worn excessively. Clutch looks good and so does the flywheel. Main bearings appear tight. The only thing I found with any wear or slop was the needle bearing for the piston pin.

Anyone seen this before on a 2171 or Husky 372?
 
Are you pretty sure the case has never been split? I used a aftermarket crank in a 365 special that viberated real bad. It was out of phase/twisted and had mega runout like .038. Note to self check cranks for trueness before install especially aftermarket ones from the orient.
 
I'm not sure of anything with this saw. Ill just have see as I go.

I've just gotten into building Husky saws. What markings am I looking for on the crank, if any for OEM Husky vs. AM?

I plan on putting a new ported cylinder and new piston in it, but not until I am sure about the vibration.
 
Orm will have a lazer engraved number on the cheaks of the crank. Aftermarket will have casted numbers or none atall.
 
It appears to have an OEM crank. The part that I can see says 08-13 Sweden on it.

Pulled the flywheel and the crank bearings are tight, really tight. I can't feel any play whatsoever.
 
Broken av mount? Once had a small piece of wood stuck between fuel tank and case, did it ever vibrate.

From what I can see visually from the exterior with the A/V springs still installed, they appear okay. I'm going to take the A/V springs out and check them.

My 2171 doesn’t vibrate too much.

My 79XX is a 2006 and this is a 2008, so I was thinking their A/V setups should be relatively on par with each other. The 79XX is way smoother as the 2171 sits right now.

+1 on the piece of wood between the tank handle and case. I had that before and the vibes are 5 times worse then a non av saw.

Again, from what I can see right now, it looks clear. Gonna have to tear it apart a little more and check everything.
 
Well, I've torn it down and everything is s in order. AV springs are good. Nothing stuck in between the case and tank/handle. Completely clean. I can't figure out why this thing is vibrating.
 
Is this a heated handle saw? Is flywheel from a heated handle saw and missing a magnet on back side of flywheel?
 
Here's some pics of the flywheel. It is not a heated handle saw. For the flywheel, I'm not seeing anywhere a magnet could be missing.

IMG_20180504_161319.jpg IMG_20180506_192754.jpg IMG_20180506_192819.jpg
 
I've had thousands of vibrations and its almost never been internal. Bent a crank once on a 2171 where you could see it by eye and the vib was on the high end.
Not to many things will vibrate at ible with these saws, In regards to external vibrations.
Its pretty safe to say its not a block of ice..lol. Sticks are obviously the other main culprit. (As its been said)
That would be an obvious big stick.
It will make your eyeballs bounce if you hit the trigger. The worse are the little ones in the back that only hit when you come of WOT and the AV's shutter down and you don't detect until the nerves in your right hand tells you sometimes wrong.

I think someone may have installed the long handle bar bolts in the front and the front in the back. Look on the case for one or two marks. Not sure if they actually hit and will affect it on idle? I know they are very close and I know its not sometimes you want to do. Its a good chance this could be.
Make sure the rubber chain catch is correct for the saw and in place properly. In the case with 372's the 375, 390, (I would assume 385 also) fit but they are wider and need about 3/16 -1/4 trim so it doesn't rub on the tank.
Check the lines (gaps) between the body and tank and make sure they are even and it doesn't have a list. You can tell best from the back. You could be tweaked into the limiter?
 
Yes it doesn't take very long at all.
Guy got a new saw and the shop put the full wrap on and did that on his 357...AND he said it was getting so hot with the heat that it was cooking his hands in no time.
I fire it up and blipped the trigger and ..wholly ****. He wasn't kidding it was vibrating. I found it right away. I pull the side handle bolts off to look under the switch cover and he had all the wires pinched..lol
That's shoddy work.
 
[QUOTE="Make sure the rubber chain catch is correct for the saw and in place properly. In the case with 372's the 375, 390, (I would assume 385 also) fit but they are wider and need about 3/16 -1/4 trim so it doesn't rub on the tank.
Check the lines (gaps) between the body and tank and make sure they are even and it doesn't have a list. You can tell best from the back. You could be tweaked into the limiter?[/QUOTE]

I think you may be on to something here. I noticed some chaffing into the magnesium behind the clutch. That's right where the rubber chain catch rides. I put the saw on it's side with the clutch facing up and then set the clutch cover down onto the bar mount. You can tell the rubber guard hits and holds it with a gap between the clutch cover and bar mount.

I do believe this has the wrong chain catch. I will trim it and see how it works.
IMG_20180507_081612.jpg IMG_20180507_081636.jpg IMG_20180507_081641.jpg IMG_20180507_081658.jpg IMG_20180507_081709.jpg IMG_20180507_085506.jpg IMG_20180507_104809.jpg IMG_20180507_104818.jpg IMG_20180507_104826.jpg
 
Second to last photo shows the gap at the bar mount and you can see on the far left that the chain catch is hitting the case.

Last photo shows chaffing right where the chain catch sits on the case and is causing the chaffing.
 
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