I don't beavertail (gut it from the undercut) unless there is a change the bar can't reach from both sides
The only other reasons I'll cut from the front is to cut through the low side and get what I can so I can reach from the back or top side. It may save from setting a springboard on steep hills 3.5 -ft- 6ft range with 3ft bar. Depends how solid it is... or isn't as well the lean, and where I stand to lean out with one _ _ _ _ and finish the low side. Other than that I will tickle a little out of the front if I left a bit too much and my wedges are deep and in the way.
Different styles anyway.
(Scenario/Scenarios)
Smaller tree in relatively flat ground you can set your back cut from the back or low side then set your low side hinge with your tip as you cut in from the side then bore through the holding wood where you want it to complete the low side post. Cut all you can or want then work your way back up to the top. Stop cutting closest to your safety trial side off the back. Follow the same cerf around if it all looks good (saw is cutting straight,, the set was level
..both angles and your undercut level) keep working down. Dog in cut, move down...repeat. Now bore through to set your strap and finish back cut and set your high side post.
You never have to flip your saw that way.
* if your back cut and undercut wasn't going to line up or you want to do it a different style then you can set again from high side.. tip down if you want. Just remember to finish the strap with your saw in the lower cerf or your saw bar will get caught in the butt as it goes over (On bigger Dia) the cuts may bypass each other as you want a narrow, deeper strap that runs front back direction
The straighter the "far edge" of the strip & your ability to narrow it fast and evenly, ,the less bypass and the less fiber pull.