Just tore down a husky 350

[atlarge54]

I picked up a cheap husky 350 last year and it runs fine but when I checked compression it was a bit under 120 cold. It was pretty cheap and the case is patched due to a loose muffler. The cyl has one helicoil and one thread insert. The squish was about .040". The piston looks great and the ring has an end gap of about .015". The cyl shows some signs of cross-hatch, I'm not sure if the cyl was off for repairs and it was given a light hone or it comes that way from the factory. This particular saw has the 45mm dished piston.

I'm thinking just replace the ring and remove base gasket with appropriate sealer. What would you expect the compression to be cold and no break in?

Should I replace the metal carb boot clamp with a screw type? If not what is the prefered method to reassemble the husky style clamp?

I do plan to add a top brace to the muffler and run the saw a while before attempting some rookie grinding on the jug.

I did use the search feature and there is a TON of info on this model.

I'm going by a local husky dealer today----what's a WAG on what they'll want for a ring if they even have one?

 

[TK]

I've only come across one 350 that had over 125psi compression, and I don't think it was stock. From saws that I've known since it was new, to others that look like they get dragged behind the truck, they've all been 110psi to 125psi. Cross-hatch in the cylinder is probably from the factory.

 

[atlarge54]

Thanks for the compression information. The dealer didn't have a ring in stock, I doubt it would've made much difference anyway.

Slapped the saw back together w/o base gasket and squish is .025" now, compression is ever so slightly above 120.

How tough is the bottom end on these saws? Anybody had one with a flat top piston that has a lot of run time? It seems like just swapping the piston would be a big boost.

 

[spike60]

I've built a couple of these up with 346NE P&C's on them and they're doing fine. Don't worry about the bottom end.

 

[huskydude]

I've only come across one 350 that had over 125psi compression, and I don't think it was stock. From saws that I've known since it was new, to others that look like they get dragged behind the truck, they've all been 110psi to 125psi. Cross-hatch in the cylinder is probably from the factory.

really? my 345 had 150, I bought it new and it was bone stock. I just picked up a 2150 the other day, compression was a touch over 150.

 

[sunfish]

I have run a ported 350 and it was right on the heels of my old 346xp.

They are very good saws!

 

[TK]

really? my 345 had 150, I bought it new and it was bone stock. I just picked up a 2150 the other day, compression was a touch over 150.

It was a bit surprising to me, but that's the results I've gotten on all of them but one like I said. 115-125psi is the range I find 350's to be in :msp_unsure:

 

[Nitro-Fish]

If you've got the dished piston, you can replace it withe a flat top from a 353, I've done this to several saws for friends & they are still going strong.

 

[atlarge54]

Been looking for a flat top piston and it looks like a NWP cheap or oem expensive. I guess I'll just keep the stock one and do a little experimenting this winter. Hard to justify a $100 piston in a $100 saw that doesn't even need a piston. My initial trials with NWP wasn't the greatest on a different saw.

I was looking at the muffler repair on this saw and I think someone made their own thread insert out of a 5/16-18 bolt. I think I may remove the helicoil and make both muffler bolts the same. I've already got the 5/16-18 taps, all I need is the metric tap to thread the bolt section. What is the thread size of the muffler bolts on this saw?

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Do a search on e-bay and find seller kafar85 he sells aftermarket p&c kits as well as pistons only. He may not have one listed for a 353, but if you contact him he will list one for you, very easy to deal with. I have done at least 1/2 dozen or more friends saws that are 350's (45mm) and running his 353 flat top pistons with no problems.

 

[blsnelling]

You should be able to find a piston for $30-40. Check Baileys and Northwood Saws.

 

[atlarge54]

My initial search was at Bailey's and ebay with the results yielding NWP or Golf as far as low cost replacements. I think I did run across one on ebay that was Episian. It seems I've read that Golf pistons should be avoided if possible and my experience with NWP wasn't positive. Is Episian a good product, I see that's what Northwood handles?

Keep in mind the stock piston is in perfect condition.

 

[sawinredneck]

Is this the closed or open port one? If it's the closed port, get the piston!:hmm3grin2orange: Open port you wont notice enough difference to matter. If it's the open, I'd even look at a new cylinder and piston, that will take care of your muffler bolt problem as well!
Don't even worry about the bottom end on this saw, if you feed it right and treat it right it will last longer than the top end! I've got more hours behind a 350 than anybody in their right mind should have and have beat that thing like a dog! The bottom end is the least of the problems you need to worry about!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[ncfarmboy]

My initial search was at Bailey's and ebay with the results yielding NWP or Golf as far as low cost replacements. I think I did run across one on ebay that was Episian. It seems I've read that Golf pistons should be avoided if possible and my experience with NWP wasn't positive. Is Episian a good product, I see that's what Northwood handles?

Keep in mind the stock piston is in perfect condition.

Episan and Meteor are top of the line AM for pistons. Kafar sold out called yesterday to order P&C kits. New people Janie Williams was who I talked to. She told me Lucas has been gone. Hope the new owner/s stand behind their stuff like Lucas did. As far as Golf pistons are concerned I haven't had any trouble with the pistons themselves, it's the circlips they are pure JUNK. They break or come out. Ask me how I know! Reuse or buy OEM clips. The other thing is they are heavy compared to OEM or Meteor. Some are 8-12 grams heavier. Husky 51 or 353 45mm will work in 350. Keep in mind all 350's are not 45mm some are 44mm. The 45mm will have a blue 45 stamped on top of the cyl. I just bought a Forester piston (Tiawan not China). It looks real good. Casting and finish is VG. This is my first one so I don't know yet.
Shep

 

[shaker223]

Seems like the loose muffler is common to the 350. I've run across several like that recently.

 

[atlarge54]

I wound up purchasing a 45mm flat top Episian piston from a site sponsor. The muffler opening was easily doubled with a burr mill in a drill. Squish is about .025" with a beer can base gasket. After a couple tanks compression is about 140 cold.

I never did use the saw much before the mods, so it's tough to judge any gains. However it is very obvious that there's LOTS more power than my little 345 which will likely be shelved.

I also added a muffler brace to the top of the muffler using some tubing with the ends flattened and drilled to bolt the muffler to the top fin.

Now the question mild port or mild port with a popup???????

 

[sawinredneck]

If it's a closed port, give it a wild port, there's lots of meat in these things, forget the popup and lose the beer can gasket.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've sold several saws on ebay and sometimes people ask me to remove the muffler so they can view the p/c. If I have a 350 with a good, tight muffler, no way will I remove it unless it feels like it has low compression. I've had a few 350s with good muffler bolts and I don't fool with them.