Light modding on a Husqvarna 357xp

[Woodyjiw]

I'm thinking of doing my first saw mods on my 357xp. The saw is bone stock and fairly low hours I believe. I have already rebuilt the carb with the proper gaskets and it runs good now ( had issues with idling and bogging down). I still need to upgrade the intake clamp which I have.

So my question is, if I'm pulling the cylinder up a little bit to aid in the new clamp install, should I pull it completely and do a base gasket delete???? I figured this would be the best time to do it. I'm asking because I don't wanna just do it and not really gain anything.

- Does the 357 perform better with a gasket delete?
- Would I be better off leaving it alone and just doing a muff mod?
- Can a delete take away from the port timing? Or throw off the timing?
- Or should I check the squish first then make my decision?

I do plan on a MM as well.
Sorry for the long post but I like to be thorough on things.

It would be nice to here from some builders or anyone that has done this...

 

[Cease232]

I can't speak to this particular saw but you always have to check squish Many saws may not have the clearance to completely remove the gasket. You may have to make a different thinner gasket to get the squish right. Considering this mod is easily reversible I'd say go for it and if you don't like it just put the gasket back on.


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[RIDE-RED 350r]

Yes, you should completely remove the cylinder to facilitate replacement of the intake boot and clamp. It would be a royal PITA to attempt it without pulling the cylinder. Plus whether you decide to delete the base gasket or not, you will need the cylinder removed to clean and prepare the cylinder and crankcase mating surfaces for the new gasket, or sealant if you go ahead with the delete.

I have a 357 and the first round of mods I did was the BG delete, lower transfer beveling/matching to the case, and muffler mod. Initially I did not change any of the port timing other than what occurred by deleting the BG. Saw ran strong with a lot of grunt, definitely stronger than stock. Since then I have gone back in a few times and it is ported and is stronger and faster yet. So yes, the BG delete does lower exhaust and transfer, but increases intake duration. The changes are only by a couple of degrees so don't worry, it will still run good. The compression gain is the main thing that gives this cheap and easy mod alot of bang for your buck.

Always check squish before you pull the cylinder. Most base gaskets run about .020" thick in my experience and it's a good rule of thumb to go by when checking before hand to see if you can safely delete the BG. My 357 came in at .021" squish after the BG delete if memory serves. I doubt your 357 will come in much different as I have seen certain models of saw not have room for a simple BG delete, not so much different specimens of the same model, in my limited experience of course.

Check your squish and go for it!

 

[grizz55chev]

Like both posters before me stated, check your squish, make the necessary adjustments to get it to .020. Cut the limiters of your carb, hog out your muffler, tune the carb, cut wood, smile!edit; not sure about it but if your saw has the plastic intake boot clamp, it's VERY important to replace it with a metal one, these are known causes of a air leak and you're in there anyway.

 

[Woodyjiw]

Yes, you should completely remove the cylinder to facilitate replacement of the intake boot and clamp. It would be a royal PITA to attempt it without pulling the cylinder. Plus whether you decide to delete the base gasket or not, you will need the cylinder removed to clean and prepare the cylinder and crankcase mating surfaces for the new gasket, or sealant if you go ahead with the delete.

I have a 357 and the first round of mods I did was the BG delete, lower transfer beveling/matching to the case, and muffler mod. Initially I did not change any of the port timing other than what occurred by deleting the BG. Saw ran strong with a lot of grunt, definitely stronger than stock. Since then I have gone back in a few times and it is ported and is stronger and faster yet. So yes, the BG delete does lower exhaust and transfer, but increases intake duration. The changes are only by a couple of degrees so don't worry, it will still run good. The compression gain is the main thing that gives this cheap and easy mod alot of bang for your buck.

Always check squish before you pull the cylinder. Most base gaskets run about .020" thick in my experience and it's a good rule of thumb to go by when checking before hand to see if you can safely delete the BG. My 357 came in at .021" squish after the BG delete if memory serves. I doubt your 357 will come in much different as I have seen certain models of saw not have room for a simple BG delete, not so much different specimens of the same model, in my limited experience of course.

Check your squish and go for it!

Any thoughts on sealing the cylinder to the base if I can delete the gasket?

 

[grizz55chev]

Lots of things that work well to that end, three bond, Honda bond, I use a permeatex product called " The Right Stuff ". Do a thread search on base gasket delete and do some reading on the subject, just don't use a silicone base sealer, they don't hold up to gas very well..

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I use Threebond and have never had an issue. Just make sure and clean the mating surfaces thoroughly. Use brake clean or carb cleaner to degrease the mating surfaces to ensure a good seal

 

[Woodyjiw]

Thank you gentlemen.

 

[sunfish]

One of the best saws ever made. Drop the cylinder and open up the muff. It will impress!!!

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

One of the best saws ever made. Drop the cylinder and open up the muff. It will impress!!!

Yes it will... but then you will find yourself wondering how much better it will run after a bit of grinding.. LOL! And let me tell ya, ...... Na, nevermind

 

[Full Chisel]

I'm going to be doing the same with mine. It's got the plastic clamp and a catalytic muffler(at least I think it does, it sounds awfully "muffled") that both need replaced. With a free flowing muffler and gasket delete it should run decent...right now it's a turd and easily the most lackluster husky in the herd!

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Must have a cat muffler. When it was stock, I would have never called my 357 a turd. Solid running saw out of the box for me

 

[weekwarrior]

I just finished my 357xp today. MM. base gasket delete and ported the cylinder. Stuck it in some ash logs I had here and can’t believe how much stronger it runs. I watched a lot of videos and read a bunch of posts and just went for it! Opened the ports up and also filed the key in the flywheel. It’s all pretty simple. Did my MS261 and with the gains decided to roll into the 357. All the info I found on here. These guys know their stuff!