I have a Honda 5.5 vertical it's on a 27 ton wood splitter and it's two years old. I've changed oil three times using Honda oil and last weekend we were splitting wood and shut it down to take a break and refuel and the thing wouldn't start! &^%$# So today I cleaned the carburetor and rolled the motor over and noticed the intake valve was not moving so I took off the valve cover and sure enough the valve was stuck do to the valve seal which sealed out all oil! Real freaking smart Honda @#$% I freed up the valve and took off the seal and then I split wood for four and a half hours and it ran great! Could some one explain to me why Honda decided to run a valve stem with no way for oil to get to the intake valve? By the way the exhaust valve has no oil seal there for it gets oil!:greenchainsaw:
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cuttinscott
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I was thinking wrong in my first reply, The sticking is from Stale Gas (Varnish) coating the valve stem..
Scott
Scott
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I couldn't find any oil gallery when I pushed the valve almost all the way into the cylinder luckily I got it back out with a magnet! and anyway if oil was injected behind the seal wouldn't it burn oil any way!:greenchainsaw:
I couldn't find any oil gallery when I pushed the valve almost all the way into the cylinder luckily I got it back out with a magnet! and anyway if oil was injected behind the seal wouldn't it burn oil any way!:greenchainsaw:
exhaust valve runs much hotter, and exh manifold is mostly positive pressure.
Intake runs much cooler, and is exposed to high vacuum at engine idle. Without a seal it would suck oil like crazy. Likely sign of sudden broken seal is sudden oil consumption at idle, but goes away at higher speeds and loads.
Oil engines had the bonnet type seals that rode up and down with the valve stem. More modern stuff has a lip seal pressed onto the guide and the valves slides back and forth in it.
The microscopic film of oil that goes past the lip seal is enough lubrication. Chrome is quite porous and ground surfaces have peaks and valleys. both carry molecules of oil past the seal for lubrication.
I'd also vote for bad oil, or bad fuel and varnish, as possible villains.
Just for the scale of things and how the rings have to seal against oil burning (4 cycle), if a car engine burned a layer of oil only one molecule thick, with each up & down of the piston stroke, it would end up about a quart of oil in a hundred miles. My van with 297k on the engine burns a quart in 3000 miles.... damn fine machining and ring design and oil chemical characteristics.
Intake runs much cooler, and is exposed to high vacuum at engine idle. Without a seal it would suck oil like crazy. Likely sign of sudden broken seal is sudden oil consumption at idle, but goes away at higher speeds and loads.
Oil engines had the bonnet type seals that rode up and down with the valve stem. More modern stuff has a lip seal pressed onto the guide and the valves slides back and forth in it.
The microscopic film of oil that goes past the lip seal is enough lubrication. Chrome is quite porous and ground surfaces have peaks and valleys. both carry molecules of oil past the seal for lubrication.
I'd also vote for bad oil, or bad fuel and varnish, as possible villains.
Just for the scale of things and how the rings have to seal against oil burning (4 cycle), if a car engine burned a layer of oil only one molecule thick, with each up & down of the piston stroke, it would end up about a quart of oil in a hundred miles. My van with 297k on the engine burns a quart in 3000 miles.... damn fine machining and ring design and oil chemical characteristics.
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You might try pouring a little Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. It really helps the old Kohler single cylinder engines that came in Cub Cadets and John Deere Garden tractors form having valve trouble.
Also, I have a 5hp Honda on a grass catcher (GC160) and I have always run Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30 and it has not gave any trouble. Synthetic oil will stand more heat before it turns to varnish.
Also, I have a 5hp Honda on a grass catcher (GC160) and I have always run Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30 and it has not gave any trouble. Synthetic oil will stand more heat before it turns to varnish.
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