Lumber barn under construction

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You can also install inverted king-post trusses between your spans... No need to go as large as the ones pictured in the link.

http://www.structuralsculpture.com/truss_king-post.htm

The inverted trusses can be fabricated out of wood or steel. You'd be really surprised what a 1/2" piece of cold rolled round, with a center post can do for span/load!

It would be fast to fab, and the material can be scavenged. Something like pictured below. They could also be made to easily post tension if need be... Cable and turnbuckles could also replace the 1/2" cold roll.

Invertedtruss.jpg

Invertedtruss2.jpg
 
looks nice!

who do ou got helping you out there???

My dad helped me with erecting the trusses and sheeting the roof. I've had a little help from my brother, wife, & BIL but mostly I've been by myself.



here is a barn we put up last year unfortunatly it is the neighbors

Showoff.:)

You can also install inverted king-post trusses between your spans... No need to go as large as the ones pictured in the link.

http://www.structuralsculpture.com/truss_king-post.htm

The inverted trusses can be fabricated out of wood or steel. You'd be really surprised what a 1/2" piece of cold rolled round, with a center post can do for span/load!

It would be fast to fab, and the material can be scavenged. Something like pictured below. They could also be made to easily post tension if need be... Cable and turnbuckles could also replace the 1/2" cold roll.

I thought about the knee braces but not the king post. I have miles of 1/2" threaded rod as well as cable. Thanks for the idea.
 
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I thought about the knee braces but not the king post. I have miles of 1/2" threaded rod as well as cable. Thanks for the idea.

No problem... You may even want to wait and see if she sags out on you. With span and weight, time will tell--you may get away with what's there?

Knee braces would be faster to do than the inverted trusses... You wouldn't even have to 'let-them-in' to the beam and post... Just fasten them with a couple RSS screws, and call it a banana.
 
Played around on MS paint some more.

:D

attachment.php



The barn I'm currently using has only one door I can get the bobcat through. It REALLY sucks pulling everything out to get to a slab in the back.
 
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This is what I have in mind for the slab racks.


attachment.php


This is using what material I have already. Gotta love commercial construction.:)

C8x11.5 for the beams

L4x6x5/16 for the end frames- bottom will be L4x6x3/8 galvanized

L4x4x1/4 for the cross members (also have L3x5x1/4 if necessary)

Couple of questions for those of you that are smarter than me...

I want to keep the bottom clear as possible to get long lumber and slabs in and out but should the knee braces be in the alternate position shown in yellow?

Assuming a uniformly distributed load, about what would this be good for?

What about a point load mid-span on the C8?

If I increased the span the 20', what will those capacities be?

How can the frame be improved from an engineers perspective?

Is the moon made of cheese?

That is all... for now... I think...
 
This is what I have in mind for the slab racks.

This is using what material I have already. Gotta love commercial construction.:)

C8x11.5 for the beams

L4x6x5/16 for the end frames- bottom will be L4x6x3/8 galvanized

L4x4x1/4 for the cross members (also have L3x5x1/4 if necessary)

Couple of questions for those of you that are smarter than me...

I want to keep the bottom clear as possible to get long lumber and slabs in and out but should the knee braces be in the alternate position shown in yellow?

Assuming a uniformly distributed load, about what would this be good for?

What about a point load mid-span on the C8?

If I increased the span the 20', what will those capacities be?

How can the frame be improved from an engineers perspective?

Is the moon made of cheese?

That is all... for now... I think...

Aggie, you can do away with the knee bracing by adding flat bar gussets as shown in brown below. 1/4" FB would work just fine.

SLABRACK.jpg


I didn't run any numbers on your frame... But again, tension can be used to strengthen the free span. Take some of that 1/2" rod of yours, and run it the length of the stand on both sides, drill through the 1/4" gussets, and run the rod through each end... Put on a couple washers and a nut. Use a torque wrench to equally tension each side. Essentially, you're putting tension on the cross members, causing them to want to bow up... When they're loaded, they will take more load due to the counteraction of the tension. Don't get too carried away with the tension, just enough that you can see an upward deflection... You can always add more later if needed.

And if the moon was made out of cheese, I would eat it. ;)
 

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