Mac 10-10 Points, Condenser?

[Arcticwolf]

I'm working on my ol' Mac 10-10 (early 70's vintage) and have already ordered everything in the fuel/ air department but want to get the spark up to par. I got a new spark plug, of course, and the plug fires as it should but it's not a nice bluish spark.
I suspect the points are probably oxidized or need to be gapped.
I have several options, I could remove the flywheel, clean and regap the points.
I could order new points and condenser ... anyone know where I can get these?
Or, I could order an electronic ignition chip to replace the points/ condenser, like the one in the following link.
IGNITION CHIP REPLACES POINTS CONDENSER MCCULLOCH 10-10 | eBay

Any suggestions or thoughts.
I just want the saw working well again, it a great saw when it's running right.
Need it for backup and bigger stuff than my Husky 16" blade will handle.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Dave

 

[Warped5]

Hey Dave, welcome to AS!

You may want to explore the filing/resetting of your points.

If that doesn't work to your satisfaction, installing a module may be the answer. Several members have tried THESE with good success.

If you needs additional parts sourcing, PM me for Bob Johnson's number.

 

[heimannm]

While a lot of guys here don't like the points system, I find them very easy to understand and work on, of course I grew up with that technology so...

Remove the flywheel (use a puller, don't hammer or pry) then once you open the cover of the points you can eithe take them out or polish them right in place using some fine emery paper. Most instructions say to polish them like a mirror, good advice no doubt but may be difficult to achieve.

Test the condenser with a simple volt/ohm meter set on resistance, highest scale possible. touch the meter leads to the case of the condenser, and the lead coming from it, should read as an "open" circuit. The switch the leads around and touch it again, you should see a very slight blimp on the meter as the condenser discharges the infinite resistance again.

I have received a few saws with the points replacer modules but I always change them back to points.

I did a 640 last night and I swear it would generate 30,000 volts turning under 100 RPM.

Mark

 

[Arcticwolf]

Hey Dave, welcome to AS!

You may want to explore the filing/resetting of your points.

If that doesn't work to your satisfaction, installing a module may be the answer. Several members have tried THESE with good success.

If you needs additional parts sourcing, PM me for Bob Johnson's number.

Hi Warped,

Thanks for the information, I'll try my carb rebuild first then if I'm still having problems I'll pull the flywheel and try filing/ setting my points as you suggest. I'm a serious believer in the ol' saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Glad to hear that the Module is a viable option as well.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Arcticwolf]

While a lot of guys here don't like the points system, I find them very easy to understand and work on, of course I grew up with that technology so...

Remove the flywheel (use a puller, don't hammer or pry) then once you open the cover of the points you can eithe take them out or polish them right in place using some fine emery paper. Most instructions say to polish them like a mirror, good advice no doubt but may be difficult to achieve.

Test the condenser with a simple volt/ohm meter set on resistance, highest scale possible. touch the meter leads to the case of the condenser, and the lead coming from it, should read as an "open" circuit. The switch the leads around and touch it again, you should see a very slight blimp on the meter as the condenser discharges the infinite resistance again.

I have received a few saws with the points replacer modules but I always change them back to points.

I did a 640 last night and I swear it would generate 30,000 volts turning under 100 RPM.

Mark

Great information, thanks for the detailed explanation Heimannm.
I grew up on that technology as well, so dealing with points won't be a problem.
I'll make sure that all mounting surfaces are well cleaned off also to be sure points and condenser are well grounded.
Saw actually ran great for a short while (since firing it up after 5 years) so my guess is that it's a carb problem ...
... felt like it just isn't getting any gas.
... I'm sure they recommend a carb rebuild at least every 40 years.

Dave