Mag Depaint advice, pls

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HeRoze

HeRoze

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i saw the thread on the media blasters and mag depaint. I've got the P.O.S. 2000 media blast gravity fed bucket thing and can't afford or justify the cost of a legit cabinet.

image_11227.jpg


anyone know of a decent media for this rig?

anyone have luck with a different mechanical or chemical process? I've messed around (on a scrap part) with some rotary wire brushes and the destruction was quite noticable. are there other mechanical means that work well --- scotchbrite disks or something?

any tips would be appreciated. I've got a clutch cover than has seen at least one coat of krylon or something on top of the oem paint and I'm patching a few places where it is broken. I want to try stripping and painting it.

thanks,
vic
 
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Old steak knief and a razor blade (on the flat parts) followed by rattle can:

attachment.php


Knock off the loose stuff and just paint over the old:

attachment.php


Note: If you feather edge the old stuff the new paint will raise it (wrinkle). That's why I just paint over the old stuff, chips, scrapes and all as it don't raise as much.

Anyway, it is just an old chainsaw.
 
67L36Driver said:
Old steak knief and a razor blade (on the flat parts) followed by rattle can:


Knock off the loose stuff and just paint over the old:


Note: If you feather edge the old stuff the new paint will raise it (wrinkle). That's why I just paint over the old stuff, chips, scrapes and all as it don't raise as much.

Anyway, it is just an old chainsaw.
Click to expand...

Great looking pics there.

Yea, I'm not doing it so much for the chainsaw as for myself. I'm trying to repaint one clutch cover just to see if I can do it right. I figure if I can learn to do it right once, I can again if I have to. But the 'just an old chainsaw' realization keeps me waaaaay out of range of a serious blast machine.
 
67L36Driver said:
Old steak knief and a razor blade (on the flat parts) followed by rattle can:

attachment.php


Knock off the loose stuff and just paint over the old:

attachment.php


Note: If you feather edge the old stuff the new paint will raise it (wrinkle). That's why I just paint over the old stuff, chips, scrapes and all as it don't raise as much.

Anyway, it is just an old chainsaw.
Click to expand...

Hmmm. Maybe that's why my 3800 painted handle is wrinkled in places. Thought it was dirt so I re-sanded and repainted and it wrinkled again. Not enough fore me to re-do it however.
 
HeRoze said:
Great looking pics there.

Yea, I'm not doing it so much for the chainsaw as for myself. I'm trying to repaint one clutch cover just to see if I can do it right. I figure if I can learn to do it right once, I can again if I have to. But the 'just an old chainsaw' realization keeps me waaaaay out of range of a serious blast machine.
Click to expand...

I hear you. I've got a gravity feed blaster for my compressor. Either it doesn't feed or it just runs through when not operating. I've tried sand and other media. Not impressed.
 
I use a small blast cabinet with glass beads. I think it was about $90 plus the glass beads. It doesn't remove the original casting detail and leaves a nice finish for painting. If I'm not concerned with preserving details, black beauty works well with an open blaster.

Paint did not adhere well to early saws that I just sanded and if you don't remove the old paint it will very likely lift.

When using a rattle can, keep it back 10" - 12" as it says on the can and do 3-4 light coats. I allow it to tack between coats, usually 10 - 15 mins. Last coat is clear poly - again, 10-15 mins after the last color coat.
 
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Reg white sand has silica in it it will put a film of silicone on surface use a media to remove paint clean and dry in oven real good

if you can powder is the way to go

Check out stihl 041 super rebuild thread too see some nice powder work

that is my saw at masterminds place (Randy)
 
cpr said:
I've had good luck with Citristrip and patience.
Click to expand...

:agree2:
I recently used some $5 paint stripper from Walmart (forgot the name):
-wipe it on
-let it soak for 30min (even so the can said 5min)
-wipe it off
-blast it clean with glass beads

Worked well.
 
Alright, I'll go out and show you how my siphon feed soda blaster works.

Be back in a while. Video too.
 
Well, the video turned out to be pretty much useless. Crappy camera and crappy operator.

However, I can and will show you my improved canister for holding the soda...

It's an empty GFS food/snack container and lid... the big hole in the center is a 1/2" hole, while the small one towards the outside is a 1/4" hole. Pick up tube goes into the 1/2" hole in the center.

This way it provides a stronger suction than if you were to just drill another 1/2" hole... it works great when it's anywhere from full to about 1/4, that's about when you need to move the container around to help it pick soda up.

Looks like this...

attachment.php



Running this at about 90-100 psi is a workout for most compressors... needs quite a bit of cfm to work well. If you're using an airbrush compressor contected to a 30 gallon tank, it ain't gonna cut it. A contractors' pancake won't do it either. A horizontal 30 gallon reciprocating compressor will be working very hard, but might get the job done... may have to take a few breaks to let it top off.

At least a 60 gallon 3.2 running HP compressor is recommended... but with some tricks (more air tanks, take more breaks, etc.) a smaller one could do the job as well.

If you, however, borrowed a couple of the neighbor's compressors and plumbed them into each other to make more tank capacity and pumping cfm, then it would work.

I'm using a 60 gallon Husky 3.2 running HP compressor capable of about 11.5 cfm at 40 psi and 10.2 cfm at 90 psi.... and it is running constantly while I am blasting. As soon as I stop, however, it fills right up and shuts off. So it is still within the capabilities of the compressor.


Those having trouble with their blasters, what compressors are you running? If it isn't big enough, that could be the problem. Or you don't have the regulator turned up high enough to compensate for line drop, etc.
 
I really like this soy based stripper. It worked really well on my old Mall. It has virtually no odor and doesn't melt your skin if you get it on you. I did the whole job inside in an air conditioned shop. Simply wipe on, wait a couple hours and scoop off. There were a couple spots that required two coats, but it got it done. You can buy the stuff off of Amazon. Good Luck,

Jim

attachment.php
 
wrong paint

If you have paint wrinkle after feathering- you are likely re-top coating with wrong paint type or top coating too thick on each coat.

The paint solvent is melting the old paint down to metal.

Is the spray can epoxy, lacquer or enamel. Cheaper paints use cheaper slow dry solvents and less solids.

Try Duplicolor enamels- lots of colors in red, orange, black, white..etc.. also use of a universal primer can help both appearance and lifting.

apply lighter medium coats first but no dusting- orange peel will result. last coat can be wetter coverage but let paint set at least 15 minutes between coats
 

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