Magnesium Case Repair - Weld, JB Weld, or ???

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Don't know where you come up with this notion of zero success with TIG welding. Where are all these threads?
With a decent TIG machine and the correct filler rod welding up mag chainsaw parts is really pretty easy, I and a few other guys here do it on a regular basis and don't seem to have any significant issues.

JB weld repairs on mag stronger than the original part? You've been watching too many commercials...[/QUO

Let me put it this way I have yet to see any welding on certain Stihl parts be strong any where as strong as the original. Please share what method used with what rod on what part and how over time it has worked perfectly. In more than 50 years have not seen it yet, but that does not mean it could never happen. In 1964 I learned how to use a heli arc with great success and have learned how to set up a titanium booth, but have not witnessed good repairs of Stihl parts. Thanks
 
Yeah go ahead and weld it anyway you want and it will work great, NOT. There are several welding threads on this subject with ZERO success. Mig, TIG, Solder did not work for me, but go ahead and try it again. Tell us how it went. Welding motorcycle cases is a cake walk without any issues, Chainsaws is quite another matter. JB Weld and similar epoxies work perfectly. Actually JB Weld is much stronger than the original. In my case the repairs consisted of making a patch that was at least 1'' bigger in every direction than the crack with aluminum, Of course cleaning to bare metal was essential and carefully crafting the reinforcing patch. Thanks
Wrong
 
Don't know where you come up with this notion of zero success with TIG welding. Where are all these threads?
With a decent TIG machine and the correct filler rod welding up mag chainsaw parts is really pretty easy, I and a few other guys here do it on a regular basis and don't seem to have any significant issues.

JB weld repairs on mag stronger than the original part? You've been watching too many commercials...

qtla

I do mag too. clean is most important part, imo...
 
Let me put it this way I have yet to see any welding on certain Stihl parts be strong any where as strong as the original. Please share what method used with what rod on what part and how over time it has worked perfectly. In more than 50 years have not seen it yet, but that does not mean it could never happen. In 1964 I learned how to use a heli arc with great success and have learned how to set up a titanium booth, but have not witnessed good repairs of Stihl parts. Thanks

So you've backpedaled from ZERO success to now not being as strong as original on certain Stihl parts. Didn't realize we were only talking exclusively Stihl Contra where the handle attaches to the case, so no, zero experience there. But still you want some sort of testimonial that all my repairs work perfectly over some unspecified time? And to bother explaining my methods while you already claim to have experience over 50 years with this? LOL!

My most common repairs are cracked clutch covers, I've done at least a few dozen of them (including Stihl) and so far no weld failures. Various crank case repairs are probably next in frequency and at least the ones I've done for myself have been fine. 2 or 10 or 50 years from now, who knows...
I just did a spider web cracked bar mount area mess of a 395 crank case for someone. Had I realized just how many cracks I was going to end up chasing I wouldn't have even started it but became a challenge of sorts. Ended up an overly complicated job that I didn't have a high level of confidence in the finished result, will be interesting to see if it holds up, assuming it gets used.

Cast mag welds more or less the same way as doing aluminum but without the puddled material having such a tenancy to jump onto the electrode. Meaning you can bury it in the puddle without particular issue, so much more forgiving of unsteady hands. Filler rod I use is az92a.

Here's an example that was almost broken in half, normally wouldn't have bothered with such a common part but was just practicing on it. Outside gets blended in for cosmetics, inside stays with the beads to add strength

welded cc 2.JPG welded cc 1.JPG
 
First picture includes one more Contra (in the box), a few 07's, an 070, a Landoni, and a Dolmar. Some of these will need some repairs here and there.

Second picture includes a few 051's, an 075 and an 076. Some will need some work but that comes later.

And the third picture is a Contra cylinder - exhaust stud got torn out. Figure the best repair would be filling it in and then drilling and tapping a new hole. Doesn't need to be pretty.

Lots more in the garage and I think I have three more saws on the way from Sweden, but you get the picture (literally!).
2017-03-10 20.22.38.jpg 2017-03-10 20.23.54.jpg 2017-03-10 20.22.03.jpg
 
Those case cracks look to be easy repairs. These older saws weld up much nicer than new ones, back then they didn't go cheap on the alloy and the base metal is much more pure. JB weld isn't going to be any help on those cracks.

The cylinder is aluminum. I usually ditch cut them and weld in solid, then drill and tap the hole. Since you have around 270deg of material left and the full circle behind, I would say you could get away with a carefully inserted time-sert.

The AHP welder you are looking at does get great reviews. Weld.com speaks highly of them. I was thinking about getting one myself for a smaller more precise machine then the behemoth I have now.
 
The hardest part of welding mag is making sure it is clean! Now you going cast mag which is another beast in itself(im sure the other welders can agree with me on this). I currently use a mill r Dynasty 350. It's not your average home owner tig set up but it is well worth the money. A lot of these guys have done a job like this and has great input. The only thing I can add is to pre heat the material to at least 90-100 degrees(makes your start a lot easier and prevents cold cracks at the beginning of your root) and to clean it. When you think you have it clean enough. Clean it again. Good luck!
 
So you've backpedaled from ZERO success to now not being as strong as original on certain Stihl parts. Didn't realize we were only talking exclusively Stihl Contra where the handle attaches to the case, so no, zero experience there. But still you want some sort of testimonial that all my repairs work perfectly over some unspecified time? And to bother explaining my methods while you already claim to have experience over 50 years with this? LOL!

My most common repairs are cracked clutch covers, I've done at least a few dozen of them (including Stihl) and so far no weld failures. Various crank case repairs are probably next in frequency and at least the ones I've done for myself have been fine. 2 or 10 or 50 years from now, who knows...
I just did a spider web cracked bar mount area mess of a 395 crank case for someone. Had I realized just how many cracks I was going to end up chasing I wouldn't have even started it but became a challenge of sorts. Ended up an overly complicated job that I didn't have a high level of confidence in the finished result, will be interesting to see if it holds up, assuming it gets used.

Cast mag welds more or less the same way as doing aluminum but without the puddled material having such a tenancy to jump onto the electrode. Meaning you can bury it in the puddle without particular issue, so much more forgiving of unsteady hands. Filler rod I use is az92a.

Here's an example that was almost broken in half, normally wouldn't have bothered with such a common part but was just practicing on it. Outside gets blended in for cosmetics, inside stays with the beads to add strength

View attachment 563810 View attachment 563811

+1. big cold fat ones where looks don't matter, then dig em out on good side, and nice hot fill to finish.
 
Yeah go ahead and weld it anyway you want and it will work great, NOT. There are several welding threads on this subject with ZERO success. Mig, TIG, Solder did not work for me, but go ahead and try it again. Tell us how it went. Welding motorcycle cases is a cake walk without any issues, Chainsaws is quite another matter. JB Weld and similar epoxies work perfectly. Actually JB Weld is much stronger than the original. In my case the repairs consisted of making a patch that was at least 1'' bigger in every direction than the crack with aluminum, Of course cleaning to bare metal was essential and carefully crafting the reinforcing patch. Thanks
Have never had jb-weld last on any repair I have made. Had a 056 handle snap and carried it to tig man and he said he could do it but it had to be cleaned completely. He repaired and you can not even tell after repainting.
 
Here's an example that was almost broken in half, normally wouldn't have bothered with such a common part but was just practicing on it. Outside gets blended in for cosmetics, inside stays with the beads to add strength

View attachment 563810 View attachment 563811

This might be your lucky day! Have I got some excellent practice for you. Look at this thread and let me know how to prep it and where to send it. So glad I found this thread.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ime-from-a-181-reveals-cracks-in-case.317319/

This is a great website with great members.
 
This might be your lucky day! Have I got some excellent practice for you. Look at this thread and let me know how to prep it and where to send it. So glad I found this thread.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ime-from-a-181-reveals-cracks-in-case.317319/

This is a great website with great members.

If it was a super rare part I'd certainly consider fixing it but since it's a pretty common item and the crack is in a high stress area known for failure on this particular saw, IMHO you'd be better off replacing it.
 
I might have a lead on one. Good to hear they are still out there - wasn't sure how rare they were.
 
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