Magnolia - bush or tree and trimming or pruning

[PhilMcWoody]

Hesitate to use the word prune, or even trim, but wife and I would like to nip this one back a little. Any thoughts or recommendations are gratefully appreciated.

It's a wee bit unusual of a Magnolia as it has what appear to be 5 or 7 leaders and they all start low, almost like a bush.

From what I've read already here, and elsewhere, no more than a 1/3, to minimal pruning is tolerated by these trees and that it's best done in spring after the blooms have fallen.)

(The blossoms are large, pink and come out once in early New York spring, followed by very dense foliage.)

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

I took a photo now — while the tree structure is still clearly visible.

I could take more closer up at the root area if needed.

 

[old_soul]

Ok Phil i'll bite... that's a nice looking magnolia you've got there.

Unfortunately they do not take real well to pruning. What is the reason to "take it back"? I do not see any overhead obstructions.

IF you top it back it will send out 2-3 sucker sprouts at each cut. Causing the tops to become extra thick, and shading the inside limbs out. it will also cause it to grow outward (round shape) towards the building. Lots more maintenance, pruning after that.

The evergreens behind are shading it, it's reaching for the light. Personally I would take the right lead off back to the trunk (heading towards the building) before it gets too big. And just thin the rest of the tree.

Then i'd sit in that chair with a cold beer and enjoy the tree's beauty.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[treeseer]

Ok Phil i'll bite... that's a nice looking magnolia you've got there.

Unfortunately they do not take real well to pruning. What is the reason to "take it back"? I do not see any overhead obstructions.

I am equally confused. The first Rule of pruning is to establish a clear objective. What are your goals for the landscape, and the plant?

 

[PhilMcWoody]

Ok Phil i'll bite... that's a nice looking magnolia you've got there.

Unfortunately they do not take real well to pruning. What is the reason to "take it back"? I do not see any overhead obstructions.

IF you top it back it will send out 2-3 sucker sprouts at each cut. Causing the tops to become extra thick, and shading the inside limbs out. it will also cause it to grow outward (round shape) towards the building. Lots more maintenance, pruning after that.

The evergreens behind are shading it, it's reaching for the light. Personally I would take the right lead off back to the trunk (heading towards the building) before it gets too big. And just thin the rest of the tree.

Then i'd sit in that chair with a cold beer and enjoy the tree's beauty.:hmm3grin2orange:

Thanks really appreciate those observations.
I had a sense they didn't take well to pruning from reading I'd done. I guess I am trying to figure how best to thin the tree and take some of the bush-like quality that begins almost at ground level.

It's kind of a bit out of control from the ground up when it's full of foliage. Wife wants it shorter perhaps, but I'm mostly concerned about doing the right thing...and especially not doing the wrong thing.

I will mull over it all with the s/o. With a cold beer, of course. (Will try to get some bloom pics, in a month or two when it "goes off.")

That reminds me -- those evergreens I don't think were there when we planted it. Those came no thanks due to a backing neighbor who removed 3 or 4 healthy 75-foot tall old growth trees and replaced them with the contrived-looking wall of evergreens.

I am equally confused. The first Rule of pruning is to establish a clear objective. What are your goals for the landscape, and the plant?

Thanks also, you got me thinking about it more. It's really very bushy from down low on up, there's a lot of growth outward from low near the ground. I'd like it to resemble something a little more tree-like with less foliage production down low.

In thinking about it, I now see one 1.5" thick branch that's right over the seat that I think I'd like to remove, so we can actually sit in the seat under it without a branch in the back of our heads.

That might be one I'd lop. As well as the right lead like old_soul said.

 

[beastmaster]

The tree looks like it may of been headed off in the past or even at the nursery. To make it look more tree like, it needs to be balanced. The tree has to many leads up in the top. I would make a few thinning cuts up there. Magnolia's sunburn easy so you can't take out to much all at once. Don't cut nothing from the interior, Thinning(lightly) up in the crown will allow more light inside, and help promote more interior growth.
Your Magnolia has no structure that is why it looks like a big bush. But by doing a little trimming each year, you can develop a tree shape.
I wouldn't take to much out after cutting that lead off, give it some time to recover. I am just saying that's what I would do.

 

[JimiClimber]

I agree with old soul. Sounds like you want it to look more like a tree and less like a bush. You don't want it to be very dense, and want more "wood" showing than intertwining "bushy" branches. That back lead and maybe the one going towards the chair (for head room) and a good thinning.

It is a tricky trim...considering your desired results.

 

[PhilMcWoody]

I agree with old soul. Sounds like you want it to look more like a tree and less like a bush. You don't want it to be very dense, and want more "wood" showing than intertwining "bushy" branches. That back lead and maybe the one going towards the chair (for head room) and a good thinning.

It is a tricky trim...considering your desired results.

Thanks for the pointers Jimi.

Am I right that after the blooms fall off is the optimal time for this kind of tree?

Also I should ask -- it a pruning saw the right tool for the back lead (5" thick) or a limbing saw? Does it make a difference?

 

[TreeToronto]

hey i think you should contact an arborist who can take care of this tree as the tree looks like it really need a good tree care and a proper trimming service if you have any questions regarding the tree removal of the maintenance you should hire a professional if u r having any kind of budget problem you can contact online for the estimation cost of this and after that you can contact it if you want to call them for service for consultation contact Tree Doctors.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Being from the south I was never aware that there were non evergreen varieties of magnolias that lose their leaves over the winter.

 

[B Harrison]

Being from the south I was never aware that there were non evergreen varieties of magnolias that lose their leaves over the winter.

Yeah, I was hoping to be educated on magnolia pruning procedures, when I became confused as well. Our Magnolias don't loose leaves, and are structured entirely different..........but that was just said huh!

 

[JimiClimber]

Learned something also

Thanks for the pointers Jimi.

Am I right that after the blooms fall off is the optimal time for this kind of tree?

Also I should ask -- it a pruning saw the right tool for the back lead (5" thick) or a limbing saw? Does it make a difference?

Had no Idea there were evergreen magnolias...love this site.

Northestern magnolias are early spring bloomers. This means they formed their buds in early fall the season before. So yea, prune after the buds fall off. (late summertime).

As for the size of the lead, regardless of what size saw you use, be sure to do an under cut first to make certain there is no tearing of the bark. In the industry on that size branch I would use my climbing saw (chainsaw 14" bar) and notch the underside, and back-cut. Check out google for instructions. And remember, if concerned about weight and trajectory...take it small chunks at a time. Then I would make my final cut (when all weight is removed), as close to the trunk as possible but staying just far enough out that I don't cut into the small bulge that surrounds the base of the limb and trunk junction (best chances for good healing).

Hope this helps.