Makita/Dolmar oil leak, air filter, whatever

[johncinco]

I searched and came up with 3 different threads that address a couple issues and rather than use all three at ponce and confuse myself (not hard) I just figured I would start anew. If you have a makita/dolmar and have used it, I would really like to hear from YOU. 1. air filter seems to get very dirty in a short amount of time. Yes I am making chips and not dust, so my chain is sharp enough. The pre-filter seems to be no more than a plastic screen that stops big chunks from gettin up in the airbox. I have purchased an extra air filter and change it out during the day and clean both before a new day. Has anyone found a reason why so much crud is getting sucked up in there? And, has anyone found a better filter, like K&N or heavy duty that can be used instead of the stock ones? I read about that shindaiwa and wonder if one is available for this setup. I just worry because once it gets clogged up it really gets boggy, and I can see some particles in the throat of the carb. 2. Chain lube, I have this thing cranked up all the way and it does pump it out. To the point where if I hold the saw in the air and rev it I get a run of oil, unfortunately it runs off right at the base of the saw and not on the chain. I do have oil on the chain, but not what I would really like to see. My passage ways look clear ad I have clean it all out with air and parts washer fluid. I looked to see if the oil passageway and oil pump hole match up, and they look like they do. I read elsewhere that the orifice might no be large enough and could be bored out. Anyone tried this? That is my next step unless I figure something else out. Other than these issues, I am happy with the saw so far. very light weight, plenty of power, and runs great on the synthetic oil I switched to. Though one annoying other fact, a 21 " bar. I have a pile of 20" that won't go on the bar so looks like I now need to buy some 21s or find a 20" bar that works on here. Cheers, JB

 

[rupedoggy]

I will offer possible help with the bar/oil problem. I will leave the other problems to others. Most bars oil holes are drilled straight through both sides of the bar. They need a stopper on the outside or the oil can go clear through and run down where the bar cover is located. Oil still gets on the chain, but a lot of it gets wasted as it shoots through. The solution is to put a bar plate on the outside to act as a block, or braze the outside hole shut. If you braze then be sure to clean out the rail/slot area of any debris/ brass before using. Mike

 

[django]

I have a Dolmar PS540, and have not experienced any of the problems you have stated. I clean the air filter every other time I cut but haven't noticed any major "bogging" between cleanings.
I use ECHO bar oil with no problems, but it does need thinned for winter. I have heard good things about K&N but have not tried them myself yet. The pre-filter will stop a dirt clod, not much else.
On a different note: have you done any muffler mods? There seems to be a lot of junk in there. Dolmars are nice saws aren't they?

 

[eyolf]

I've got two older Dolmars, and they both use Husky mount bars. I bet they still do.

as far as the oiler problem, could it be that the outer bar shim is the wrong one? The inner should be punched out to allow full oil access to the bar. The outer one shouldn't, and should block off the passage through the bar.

Good luck!

 

[shoot501]

I got a sachs/dolmar 115si , it is about the same as the makita 540. Mine runs a 20'' bar, has for 10yrs with no problems of any kind. I clean the air filter after each days cutting, I opened up the muffler and this lightweight is a real hotrod. I've owned several saws over the past 10 yrs but can't seem to let go of my 115si and 120si. Good saws!

 

[Steve]

johncinco

What model Dolmar do you have?

 

[Tony Snyder]

Every 116 I have seen has had various oil problems. Also I usually let them set out side until I am ready to work on them. They are not house broken.

 

[geofore]

oil leaks

Write to Makkita/Dolmar and let them know you have problems, they may have a fix for it or they may not know they have a problem. Either way let them know the problem exists.

 

[johncinco]

I have the 520, or 52cc saw. I did not have a chance to check on the things everyone mentioned yet but I will and get back to you. Sounds like a couple of you are happy with the older versions, but much larger saws. I bought this to try out the brand and see how it works. I am hoping it is something minor that can be corrected. I have not doen the muffler yet, but certainly will. My wire welder is out of gas and havent gotten it filled yet. Anyone do theirs yet and how did it turn out. Thanks, JB

 

[johncinco]

minor fixes

I was out playin in the barage and trying to figure just what was wrong with this thing and think I have it. The excessive amount of crud on the air filter is due to the cover being deformed and allowing stuff to come in around it. The screw/lugs that tighten it down are in the middle, and the ends bend up. and may have been over tightened previously and have warped or deformed it. I will try and get a new and see if that helps. In the mean time I plan to go out and cut with the seam covered with some good ole "duck" tape. The chain oil proved to be weirder to figure out. The oil comes up from the pump in a black rubber tube, that is formed to direct the oil towards the bar, and not allow it to run back down the metal channel the tube rests in. After taking it off and on several times and looking at it, I think the way the tube was formed and held in place did 2 things. It pinched the tube down closing the whole down to about 1/2 size, and it also bent in on itself creating an alleyway for the oil to run back down the metal channel. Thus, limited oil to the bar, and oil running out the bottom of the saw. I filled in all around the channel with gasket sealer, and very carefully shaved the flat edge of the tube down a cheek hair. Sure seemed to work better at the house and I will get out this weekend and give it a full trial. I started prodding and looking at the muffler again, and decided to heck with welding it back together and bent the edges open with a cold chisel and channel locks. I took the baffles out so far and have not done anything as far as getting the holes bigger. I do think it made a small difference already. I have read several times here that the screen must be in place to keep stuff from being sucked back into the muffler, so where do I get screen like that? Is it extra tough or what is it. I dont think Ace hardware in going to have it. Suggestions? I looked at some of the muffler mods on here , especially those double pipes welded on, and I dont see screen. Just dont want to screw it up. Once I get this answered, I will see about making the wholes bigger and by how Much. Have a great weekend, JB

 

[Crofter]

Spark arrest screen

Johncinco.

I found a source of screen for muffler outlets. Go to the housewares section and you will likely find a flour seive or some similar piece that you can cut the screen out of. Just make sure it says stainless. Some are brass or aluminum and doubtfull if they will stand up. I found a seive at Canadian Tire. $3.99 for enough for 3 or 4 screens. Make outlet of muffler approx. size of exhaust port on cylinder. Somewhere between 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 times port area you will start to lose some of your gains. Its easier to enlarge a bit later than ti try to make it heal up!

Frank

Frank

 

[jokers]

Open area of wire mesh

Hi All, I was just perusing the McMaster-Carr site, www.mcmaster.com and found an amazing array of choices when I did a search for wire mesh, also found some useful and somewhat surprising info. The mesh with small openings, as you would find in a spark arrestor screen have a very low percentage of open area, some down into the 30% range, so the point being that you would want to factor this into your muffler mods or you would be "leaving money on the table" so to speak. Russ

 

[johncinco]

interesting ideas

sounds like good ideas for materials. Yeah I thought about the screen cuttiing down on the actual space left for the exhaust to pass through. Gotta wonder what the "pros" are using. I did do a little tinkering this weekend. Spent about 4 hours out in the extremely wet woods. 34 out and just enough to keep the existing snow melting and me wetter all the time. I liked the way the saw ran with the arrester out and the original whole opened up a little. I brought along the cordless drill and the box of bits. Started about a 1/4 " and about every 1/2 tank of gas made it a little bigger. By the time I was done I now have the original whole, plus 2 more at about 5/16. The oiler works great now, and the duck tape over the seams of the cover stopped the crud from getting sucked in. not pretty but effective. Happy New year, and Cheers to everyone. JB