Maul handle replacement question

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ok Guys I placed my order with House Handle, If anything shows up at my door in the next few months at the price i paid i will be shocked. I ordered a pick, a pickeroon and some file handles all for $20.95 shipped. thats cheap.
if its of any quality y'all will find out about it.
FWIW there's a thread on another forum about them. Mostly positive reviews.
 
We have an axe I bought for my wife when we were dating 39 years ago. It stays in house becuse I use the work tools and keep it shiny. The handle is always loose from drying out in the house.
The work tools live in the wood room or truck where the handles absorb moisture, it helps to keep there heads tight.
 
I had a big pile of wood and no money. My wife had a twenty her mom had sent her. I said if you buy an axe I will give you split wood. The rest is history. Best investment my wife ever made free wood for life.

sheesh..

if i give you $40 will ya come and split my pile ? (I'll wear a dress while I watch if that helps any :eek:)
heck I'll even let ya run the SS....(on the small stuff anyway ;))
 
sheesh..

if i give you $40 will ya come and split my pile ? (I'll wear a dress while I watch if that helps any :eek:)
heck I'll even let ya run the SS....(on the small stuff anyway ;))

I am too busy for that none sense.

When you get the handles try and dry them real good before you set the maul. In the winter a few days close to the stove works well.

After the tool is set paint on the end grain helps the handle retain any moisture left.
 
Recieved handles from House Handles the other day. 2 mattock handles--too small but thats my fault I measured wrong. 36" straight handle for a double bit axe is pretty nice. I paid .50 extra to get ones with no laquer. I like their inventory, if it has a wood handle that outfit probably has one.
 
Bought one of those plastic replacement handles once for my splitting maul. Problem with them is they over a year get loose and the only way to fix them is to take them out grind down the old glue and reglue them back in place for another year.l

I used a plastic handle and epoxy when I broke the wooden handle on my maul. The epoxy held up well until my boy overshot a round and broke the handle. The epoxy was still holding tight to the maul.
 
Just curious as to why they charge extra for no lacquer? Also do you then seal it yourself?
Extra because they sand it off rather than just pulling one off the assembly line, as I learned. I'll put linseed oil on it or maybe stain it for show. Not tools I use alot. There are lots of axe geeks on the Internet who like to buy the plain handles and spend way more time treating them than I do.
 
@angelo c How did you like the handles from House Handle?

thanks for reminding me. the handles were shipped as described and did the job.
i ordered a few file handles that were less then described though. bottom line is they had what i wanted at a reasonable price.
I was just trying to make a bigger order to support them and the "extra" stuff was just OK.
 
Just curious as to why they charge extra for no lacquer? Also do you then seal it yourself?

apparently the "hand picking" is what you pay extra for. to make sure someone who knows what to look for picks out the 'right' wood product as opposed to just grabbing one of the shelf..
 
Adding all this heat to a carbon steel, or a carbon steel alloy, will either pull the temper out of the steel, or if quickly cooled above critical (1,400*) -- would cause the tool to be dangerously brittle. Case hardening is a totally different process, and isn't achieved by quenching or heating carbon steel.

If it were kept under 400 F, I imagine the effects of heating would be minimal.
I personally wouldn't try this method, as the steel (usually cast) is of unknown alloy and quality.

The last thing you want is a shattering maul head, sending shrapnel through the air.

Actually as long as you keep it below 700F you should be fine. Metallurgical properties shouldn't change below that temperature.
 
Feel free to call me a hillbilly, but a length of 1" structural pipe and some time with a grinder and welder replaced the crappy fiberglass handle on this maul. It was garbage to begin with but it works, and i doubt the welding i did will be enough to weaken it significantly, and i doubt i could ever break this thing. beats buying a lifetime supply of wood handles maul1.jpeg maul 2.jpeg
 
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