Milling A Big Cherry Log

[Sawyer Rob]

Last fall i harvested a very nice blk. cherry tree out of my woodlot, and i thought i'd post pictures of how i milled it into top quality lumber.

You can see the tree in the picture, and how i turned it into cabinet grade lumber at the link below... Click on the first pict., and use the arrows at the top of it to move to the next pict.. Also there's captions at the bottom of each picture..

Rob

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744

 

[Newfie]

Some sweet looking boards.

 

[046]

thanks for sharing...

nice mill! that 23 hP motor looks pretty stout.

 

[lookingtoplant]

Just make sure when your skidding a log or pulling anything, that if it doesn't get caught on anything because when's higher up, you'll flip the tractor and kill yourself.

 

[coveredinsap]

I have a question: How did you get the big log from the tractor forks down onto the mill? Do you roll it on? ...as I don't see any mechanism for setting it down and withdrawing the forks...

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It would be VERY difficult at best, to make "that" tractor go over backwards. It has enough weight on the front to keep it down with the MFWD axle, and the loader on it. This is just common sense, and seeing as how i've been driveing tractors for nearly 50 years i'm not a newbie to them and how they react.

As for getting the log off the forks and onto the bunks. The cross bunks on the mill are "higher" than the rails of the track. I can set the forks low enough, tip them and the log will roll right onto the mill.

You can see this quite clearly in the pict. below...

Rob

 

[coveredinsap]

You can see this quite clearly in the pict. below...

Ummmm, OK, if you say so.

tip them and the log will roll right onto the mill.

I thought so. OK, so the answer is...you gently roll them on by tipping the forks down. Hmmmm, can't say I like the idea of that big 'ol log accidently getting away and slamming into the back side of the mill. I wonder how hard would it be for the manufacturer of the mill to put some recesses spaced along the rails of the mill so that a log can be gently set on it and the forks withdrawn from below?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Ummmm, OK, if you say so.

You can't see the raised bunks in that pict?????? Maybe you need a new monitor...

As for loading logs. I bought my first Lumbermate in 1996, and this updated model in 2004. To this day, i haven't had any problems loading logs.

This new model has raised bunks and it works very easy to "set" or "roll" a log on it. I'm not alone, Norwood has sold hundreds and hundreds of these mills, and i've yet to hear of the problem you "think" it has.

Recessing for a log is a terrible idea, and if you ever actually "own" a sawmill, and use it to saw "grade" lumber you will soon see why.

Rob

My sawmill Pictures -----> http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744

 

[Reddog]

Nice pics Sawyer Rob. Don't you like how all us guys that use tractors get lumped into the 8n crowd. My 70 hp kubota will pull as much as the early skidders. And with the loader on the front can't even get the front tires off the ground. I use a skidding winch but have in the past pulled off the draw bar.

 

[BIG JAKE]

Nice pics

Rob why the anchor seal over paint? What other wood types to you mill and do you seal them all? Thanks for posting.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Red dog,

I also own an 8N Ford, so i know where they are comeing from. BUT, a bigger modern MFWD tractor set up right with an operator with a brain, just won't go over backwards like older tractors do...

BIG JAKE,

It will take anywhere's from 5 to 10 coats of paint to even come close to doing what Anchorseal does in ONE coat. The object of the coating is to seal the end of the log, and paint just has a hard time doing that. Anchorseal is so "waxey", it's very good at sealing off the open pores of the rough cut end of a log.

I've said it before, and i'll say it again. Paint "looks" as good as Anchorseal, but it doesn't "work" as good as Anchorseal.

No, i don't end coat every log, but i do try to end coat every high quality log, especially if it's going to be sawn for "grade".

BTW, i don't sell or have anything to do with the Anchorseal other than use it here on my logs!

One last thing: I see many of the viewers of my pictures, aren't looking at the "part two" of the log milling. That's too bad, because i think some of the best pictures are there....

My sawmill picts. http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744

Rob

 

[lookingtoplant]

How much do one of those mills costs?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The Lumbermate 2000 starts out at $4,690.00 with a Honda 13 hp motor. It will saw a 32" x 12' long log. If you want to saw longer logs, you can buy as much track as you want now or later and bolt it right on.

I had a Honda 13 on my last mill, and it sawed pretty good. For personal use it would be enough hp..

Rob

My Sawmill Pictures http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4378744

 

[coveredinsap]

I kind of like the looks/features of the Lucas Portable Sawmill (circular) over the Lumbermate (bandsaw) models.

A Granberg chainsaw mill (for slabbing) and a Lucas Portable Mill and you're all set....no tractor necessary and no moving big-arse logs around. The Lucas mill sets up and breaks down easily and is set right up on the spot. Sweet. (And no huge investment for a tractor....doubly sweet.)

http://www.baileys-online.com/Mill.htm

http://www.lucasmill.com.au/sawmill.html

 

[Newfie]

I kind of like the looks/features of the Lucas Portable Sawmill (circular) over the Lumbermate (bandsaw) models.

A Granberg chainsaw mill (for slabbing) and a Lucas Portable Mill and you're all set....no tractor necessary and no moving big-arse logs around. The Lucas mill sets up and breaks down easily and is set right up on the spot. Sweet. (And no huge investment for a tractor....doubly sweet.)

http://www.baileys-online.com/Mill.htm

http://www.lucasmill.com.au/sawmill.html

Did you check out the price tag on those Lucas Mills?

 

[coveredinsap]

Did you check out the price tag on those Lucas Mills?

Yeah, roughly $7k, $9k, and $12k. Actually less than the LumberMate 2000 with a big motor and all the options/packages at $16k. And about the same, $12k with the big motor and the trailer and leveling packages.

And that's leaving out entirely the need for a tractor with the Lumbermate 2000.

All things being equal the Lucas Mills start looking like a good deal...set them up over the log, mill, then break them down and haul away the lumber in a pickup truck with the mill on the lumber rack. No other accessory equipment needed. Slick.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

First of all, i would own the same tractor whether i had a mill or not, as i do have a farm here. You don't have to have a big tractor just because you have a sawmill, but it's really nice to have one around. I know many guys that have a bandmill who don't have a expensive tractor around.

Norwood has a great set of ramps to roll logs up, and there winch rolls them right up the ramps no problem. It's the same winch that turns the logs once it's up there.

I like swing mills, they have there place. BUT, you are limited to narrow boards, and they are much harder to grade saw with. They also have a wider kerf than a band, so once again you are back to less lumber per log.. They are a pain with smaller logs.

"If" you have a lot of big to huge logs and you aren't sawing for grade a lot, they really shine. "If" i was buying a swinger though, it's the Peterson that would be in my barn.. BUT, i can't get by that huge price they have and also that they work best with huge logs.

I'm not sure why anyone would price a LM2000 (or any mill) with every option and then compare it to another mill that's stripped, but coveredinsap i STILL think you need a NEW monitor.... I think most folks here are smarter than that though....

OK, i'm done answering the "wave maker"...

Rob

 

[WRW]

Yeah, roughly $7k, $9k, and $12k. Actually less than the LumberMate 2000 with a big motor and all the options/packages at $16k. And about the same, $12k with the big motor and the trailer and leveling packages.

And that's leaving out entirely the need for a tractor with the Lumbermate 2000.

All things being equal the Lucas Mills start looking like a good deal...set them up over the log, mill, then break them down and haul away the lumber in a pickup truck with the mill on the lumber rack. No other accessory equipment needed. Slick.

Why are you fixated on the need for a tractor with the Norwood mill and the problems of loading with forks? One customer loads them as Sawyer Rob describes with no problems. Another uses chains hooked to a bucket with no problems. For myself, my first cutting was a couple of ramps and I use a cant hook to roll the logs up to the bed. No tractor involved.

Sawyer Rob,
Same poster on the Yahoo milling forum?

 

[Newfie]

Most of his fixation seems to stem from lack of clue. He's milled up one tree with half a saw and half a mill and he's an expert. Sap appears to be in an expert in most other venues as well. Probably just another google baby with very little practical experience.

Time for me to go back thru all of his posts so I can take notes, cuz apparently I've doing it all wrong.:greenchainsaw:

 

[WRW]

Most of his fixation seems to stem from lack of clue. He's milled up one tree with half a saw and half a mill and he's an expert. Sap appears to be in an expert in most other venues as well. Probably just another google baby with very little practical experience.

Time for me to go back thru all of his posts so I can take notes, cuz apparently I've doing it all wrong.:greenchainsaw:

Half a saw and half a mill...I'm rolling on the floor. :censored: off.