Milling first log

[chads]

I thought that i should start with something small and work my way up.
I had a small ash log to mill and tried it out today.
Having fun with the photos not sure why we need to click on them to see them.

Anyway here they are the old way

I used a 460 and the tilted log, it self fed I just needed to hold it down tight to the log.
The oiler used a full tank of oil to the tank of gas.
It took 2 and a half tanks of gas for this log .
the aux oiler used about 3/4 quart on this log.
I need to vent the aux oiler tank any suggestions? I just loosened the cap I guess that's ok. Or I was thinking of heating a pin and poking a hole in the cap.
I drilled the bar but am not sure all of it is going in the hole.
I used the drip method. It was comming out on the upper bar edge so I was sure it was comming out, but not sure if it really got in there.
I was wondering if dish soap and water would work here like on a bandmill.

I would like to make a fitting to get the oil going into the hole only. It took me a while to figure out to shut off the oil about a foot before the end I was getting a little puddle on the first couple boards while it was cooling.
Chad






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[mikeb1079]

looks great, nice work!

 

[BobL]

I need to vent the aux oiler tank any suggestions? I just loosened the cap I guess that's ok. Or I was thinking of heating a pin and poking a hole in the cap.

If the cap is thick enough a vent valve can be added using a ball bearing - look at how I did mine here.

I used the drip method. It was comming out on the upper bar edge so I was sure it was comming out, but not sure if it really got in there.
I was wondering if dish soap and water would work here like on a bandmill.

Don't do it, the soap will wash the oil off completely and you will wear your b&C prematurely. Even plain water creates more wear than just oil.

I would like to make a fitting to get the oil going into the hole only. It took me a while to figure out to shut off the oil about a foot before the end I was getting a little puddle on the first couple boards while it was cooling.

The drip method can be made to work - the trick is to get the drip point really close to the chain/bar rail junction so that it wicks rather than drips.

 

[burningwood]

1st Log

If the cap is thick enough a vent valve can be added using a ball bearing - look at how I did mine here.


Don't do it, the soap will wash the oil off completely and you will wear your b&C prematurely. Even plain water creates more wear than just oil.


The drip method can be made to work - the trick is to get the drip point really close to the chain/bar rail junction so that it wicks rather than drips.

Nice job Chad. The times I have a problem with the auxiliary oiler is when I tighten the cap down to much. I purchased this, Aux. Oiler Kit | Granberg International which gives me good control of the drip.

I also use Veggie Oil in the Auxiliary Oiler (per Smokin) works good, I've also been running Canola Oil in the saw for bar oil, so far so good and oh ya it came from Smokin.

zap :msp_thumbsup:

 

[Greenstar]

Guys, we're having trouble drilling the bar for our helper handle and Aux Oiler for the long bar. Any suggestions?
My guy took it into a shop he uses and tried with a drill press and said he broke two bits and didnt get anywhere while doing so..

Also, whats your tips or suggestions on treating a whole heap of wood cost effectively after milling such a heap of nice quality boards such as those? Is Anchorseal pretty much the only thing you all use to prevent cracking? I think we're gonna have A LOT of wood!

I've got a huge White Oak down a few doors away, and finally bought an Alaskan CSM and all the accesories. I've wanted one for 15 years, and now finally I'm getting ready to do this.

(I'm also thinking 2"x4"s is not really the best idea for rails.. I kind of want to go buy some aluminum stock @ 10' long per piece, and just use those.) It looks like a ladder may be tricky to prevent tipping, also leveling and fastening when logs have a taper. Thanks

Look forward to your tips! Hopefully its ok I posted this here. -Ben

 

[chads]

Ben,
The ladder was really easy to use I would recommend it. Light and easy to move around.
I fastned it to the log with some pipe strap and drywall screws. If it rocks a wedge would work or even a well placed screw.
Drilling the bar is not too bad I started with a 1/8" bit took it slow and then stepped up twice to 3/16 in the drill press.
If your drilling the center of the nose bearing I guess carbide bits are in order.
I just used the newest bit I had and it was sharp enough to cut it.
If it's in the center of the bar somewhere you could heat it with a torch till it's red and soften it but if it's near the powerhead it may weaken it too much if you don't heat treat it again.
Chad

 

[jimdad07]

That is some nice milling you had there, good looking wood. It only gets better as you learn different ways of doing things.

 

[chads]

Thanks for the encouragement.
The emerald ash borer is wiping out all of the ash around here so there are many trees to cut up.
I just need to drop by when I see a dead one and ask if they wan it cut down.
Chad

 

[Greenstar]

Guys, what is the most economical, home method, for treating the ends of lots of this wood?

Chad, wasnt the ladder tipping from side to side? I guess some scrap 2"4" lumber cud also be stuffed under to prevent tipping of the ladder, huh??
Now did u accommodate for the taper and measure to the center point of each end, and shim accordingly as well?

Thanks

 

[chads]

If you need to just screw a 1x or 2x to the end of the log leveling them to avoid twisting the ladder.
I just put the rung just past the stump end of the log so it layed flatter.
Most times there is a flat side to a log start there or just trim it with your saw so you have a somewhat flat log to start on.

As far as treating the ends I hear of many commercial products and leftover latex paint.
Chad

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Nothing comes close to working like Anchorseal, (or a copy of it) IF you really care about the logs/lumber you have, use Anchorseal. Paint doesn't even come close to working as well.

SR

 

[Brmorgan]

Guys, we're having trouble drilling the bar for our helper handle and Aux Oiler for the long bar. Any suggestions?
My guy took it into a shop he uses and tried with a drill press and said he broke two bits and didnt get anywhere while doing so..

Saw bars are made from air-hardening steel. It is possible to drill them with regular HSS drill bits if you're patient and keep the steel nice and cool, but that's really hard to do with larger holes. It's handy to have an old junk bar lying around that you can use as a backer to lay the bar to be drilled right on top of; this will act as a bit of a heatsink and wick the heat away from the drilling. Start small, at least 1/8", and work up from there no more than 1/16" at a time, and keep the spindle and feed speeds nice and low. And definitely use cutting fluid; I have good luck with RapidTap personally, but you can get away with using something like ATF if you have it lying around.

If you've already spun off a couple drill bits on a hole, chances are it's already hardened past the point of regular bits being effective. You can try a good Cobalt bit if you have one, or a cheap alternative is a carbide-tipped masonry bit. They don't do a super clean job, and it sounds like hell when they crunch through the steel because they don't cut a nice smooth chip, but they will get a hole through that bar no problem.

 

[Dave Boyt]

Looks like you're getting smooth cuts. What are you using for chain? I also use AnchorSeal. If you mill the log within a day or two, you are ok to put it on the boards after you cut them. If the logs will be down a while before milling, put the AnchorSeal on the ends of the logs as soon as possible. Once the wood starts splitting, the AnchorSeal won't do much good.

 

[BobL]

. . . . ..

Yo Brad! - long time no hear/see.
Good to see you are still around, whatcha been up to?
Still working at the mill?

 

[Brmorgan]

Yo Brad! - long time no hear/see.
Good to see you are still around, whatcha been up to?
Still working at the mill?

Hey Bob, ya I pop in and read a few things here from time to time, but I honestly haven't done any CSMing to speak of since 2010 so I haven't had much to contribute. I've done a bit more milling of short cedar pieces for my old woodworker friend a couple times, but that's it... Honestly haven't even worked on any saws other than what I had to in order to get my firewood in last year.

Got married on Dec. 27th, not sure if I had posted that in this forum or not, I know I did over in the tool forum thread but a lot of guys probably didn't see that. I got let go from the mill back at the beginning of May, so I've had a bit more spare time on my hands in the last few weeks, and am working with my brother doing yard care again for the time being until I find something more permanent in my skill area. Getting lots done around the yard at home and starting to tear into a few projects - finally got that top level built up in my truckshop that I milled the big 24' 8X12 beam for two years ago. Gonna start on building stairs for it tomorrow, then I can start hauling all my saws etc. out of the basement shop and stash them up there in a much more organized fashion. Eventually I'm going to move all my metalworking/welding/etc. equipment up there too, so the basement shop will be woodworking-only and I'll have a lot more room to do that with. I picked up a HUGE 100-year-old Monarch metal lathe off Craigslist back in March, though I haven't done anything with it; since the truckshop is a dirt floor, I can't even level it properly so there's no point until I get at least a concrete pad poured for it to sit on. Got a good deal on it though, and the fella delivered it for free right to my shop. Plus it's a nice old antique piece of iron, which I'm always attracted to.

Anyway I should quit hijacking this thread... LOL. Before I forget though, I need your address, got a little something from Barkerville last fall to replace what you lost in customs when you left here, but forgot all about it until just now.