Milling question

[Typhoon]

Hey guys. I have a couple questions. I am wanting to have some wood milled, and want to make sure I do everything right. I want to use the boards that I get milled to finish my basement walls and ceiling with. I have 40 acres of woods, primarily hard maple, poplar, and oak. I would like to finish the walls with 1x12" boards. First question, can I just pick a species that I want and stick with it? Or is there a species that will work best for me? They all look good to me, I guess I just want the one that will warp the least, dry easiest, etc etc. Next, what is the smallest tree that I can use (diameter) for this? 24"? And lastly, I planned on sticking and stacking all of the lumber in my basement (which is heated and cooled like the rest of my house). Would this be a good place for the wood to dry? And what is average drying time for 1 inch thick boards? Thanks in advance. I am getting ready to start logging and I want to do this right the first time and not waste trees.
-Brad

 

[woodshop]

... I have 40 acres of woods, primarily hard maple, poplar, and oak. I would like to finish the walls with 1x12" boards. First question, can I just pick a species that I want and stick with it? Or is there a species that will work best for me? They all look good to me, I guess I just want the one that will warp the least, dry easiest, etc etc. Next, what is the smallest tree that I can use (diameter) for this? 24"? And lastly, I planned on sticking and stacking all of the lumber in my basement (which is heated and cooled like the rest of my house). Would this be a good place for the wood to dry? And what is average drying time for 1 inch thick boards?...

I'll take a first stab...
Poplar, hard maple and oak are all three very different animals both when it comes to drying as well as working with in the shop/home. When you say you want to end up with 1x12 boards I am assuming you mean dimensioned as you would buy them, so they would actually be ¾ by 11 ¼ when you go to put them on your walls. You said air dry in your basement. Not the best place but… with the poplar and oak you can get away with 12 inch wide 5/4 (1 1/8 or 1 ¼) to start, but rock maple that wide and that thin tends to warp more than those other two. Talk to somebody who has milled and dried a lot of rock maple, I’ve only done a few hundred feet of it, as most of what I get around here is soft maple, which also tends to twist more than others. You said “they all look good to me”…gosh lots of diff between finishing your room in oak than say poplar, which has little grain and could be pretty boring. Apples and oranges.
Drying in your basement can be done, I’ve done it with small quantities… but you’re talking enough to finish walls and ceiling! Not a good idea. Couple problems. You need a steady exchange of air to carry off the moisture that stack will give off, which in the beginning is a LOT. Second, you don’t want it to dry too fast, especially in the beginning or you can destroy that lumber. Google honeycombing & wood and read up on that. I would dry it outside properly stickered. Drying times vary with location, temp and species… my 5/4 poplar milled in spring is dry in less than 2 months. My 5/4 oak/cherry/walnut milled in spring takes a good 6 months or sometimes little more to get down to 20% MC (moisture content). Don’t know enough about rock maple to say how long… my soft maple takes about as much as oak/cherry/walnut.

 

[Typhoon]

Hey thank you so much for the reply. I am not new to cutting wood with a chainsaw, but I sure am new to milling! You were using the term "Rock Maple", is that the same as Sugar Maple (Hard Maple)? I assume it is. Also, I shoulda been more specific on what I meant by "they all look good"... you are right, apples and oranges difference between putting up oak or maple. The reason I havent decided yet, is because I need to pick out the trees I can/want to cut. I have a LOT of Maple, and a LOT of Poplar... and even a lot of Ash. But I don't have too much Oak. I would prefer Ash or Oak personally, but I will just have to see what I have. Ok, now for probably the most important question... before I fell any trees, what is the minimum diameter that you would recommend to take to a sawyer? I will take the biggest stuff I can, but what is the minimum? For example, if I took a 24" diameter, 8ft log to be cut up, is that too small? Thanks again...

 

[excess650]

18"+ is good diameter, but 8' might be a little short. The wood will check on the ends while drying. If you want to end up with 8' paneling, I would cut them 9'.

18" diameter(under the bark) will yield a 12.5" square cant(70% rule). Cut with a chainsaw mill, you would get (8) 5/4 boards when you account for the kerf lost. If cut with a bandmill, you'll save another board.

I mention 5/4" so as to allow for shrinkage while drying, and then planing.

 

[glennschumann]

On the matter of specie, you may consider going with the Ash, just for the fact that the Emeral Ash Borer is still on the move, and you may end up with all your ash trees dead in a few years anyway. If you cut them now, you may be able to preserve them for the next generations to view, (inside) while they still have the chance to sit in the shade outside under the oaks. I like the look of ash anyway...

My suggestions is to find a sawyer first who may be able to direct you as to what sizes s/he likes to work with, then work from there.

Just my 2cents.

 

[slabmaster]

I agree with cutting the ash! They are doomed anyway.Why cut the other species when you will have to cut down the ash anyway.I have milled all my dead ash trees and glad i did.It's beautiful wood looks like oak any way, just lighter in color.Paint or wax the end grain as soon as you cut it to keep the cracking to a minumium.You can stack it inside and keep a fan on it with a dehumidifyer in the room and it will season real well for you. Mark

 

[MJR]

If the maple has twisted grain don’t bother milling it. You can see the bark bending on the way up the truck. Your boards will never be straight. Also cut the maple during the winter if you can and make sure you have good air flow though your sticker and stacked wood. I made this mistake in the past and had pretty blue boards. If you have any dead standing trees (Ash is the best) use them to make stickers. If you use wet stickers you will have some mold stain. Good luck.