milling stumps

[stumpjumper83]

Anyone on here mill stumps? Now that I have a jd 450c with a backhoe I wanna try milling some stumps. I've heard that the grain is really pretty in the stump. I have a good supply of large stumps. 3 - 6' oak, maple, & black cherry stumps. Whats the best way to mill these? Pics of you all doing if would be a plus too.

 

[stihlboy]

Anyone on here mill stumps? Now that I have a jd 450c with a backhoe I wanna try milling some stumps. I've heard that the grain is really pretty in the stump. I have a good supply of large stumps. 3 - 6' oak, maple, & black cherry stumps. Whats the best way to mill these? Pics of you all doing if would be a plus too.

cherry stumps= amazing wood....... ps use workchain because the dirt in the wood dulls chains quick!!

 

[BlueRider]

I did a bunch of claro walnut a while back and will be doing a bunch more in a month or two. In my situation the trees are an orchard that is being taken out. the trees will be pushed over with a dozer and left where they land. I use a small trenching shovel and a digging bar to remove the dirt from around the roots and then trim the roots off the sides and what woud have been the bottom of the tree then mill just like a regular log. Of cource in my case the rest of the log is still attached so it is just a regular log with a bit of root burl at the end of each slab and on the other end is a graft line. milling through the root ball does require more frequent touch ups and I do prefer milling from the top down so that if I hit a bit of dirt or a rock it is at the end of the cut. On a slab this size I would lightly touch up the chain after 3 or 4 slabs.

The pic is of a one of the shorter logs but you can get an idea of where the roots were cut by looking at the slabs lower in the stack.

 

[Backwood]

I had a 5' white oak that fell over and I cut some of the wood that was just below ground level, very curly. Very interested in how it goes. Never thought about sawing oak or maple stumps.
Hope you take pictures.
Would you anchorseal all surfaces ?

 

[stumpjumper83]

At this point I'm still unsure of what I'm doing. My trackloader is in the shop getting a new block and some other work done. When that is complete I'll be able to dig the stumps out. I have a backhoe for it, as well as the standard front one, and a winch if necessary.

The family farm has some large red oak, black cherry, and hard maple stumps that are pretty prevelent and I am curious to see the wood.

I'm not sure what im going to saw with. My big saw is a stihl 460, and one stump in particular produced a 60" oak log. I'd like to see if I could get or make an oversized band mill that I could set the stumps on. Maybe scew feed it for a super slow cut so I get a quality cut. But we will see. Might have to resort to getting a 880.

What was this seal stuff your talking about.

 

[NJANDPA]

What do you think about powerwashing the heavy dirt and rocks out of the roots. Seems that the small rocks and dirt would come out easy. Milling a few stumps is on my to-do list also.

 

[Mike Van]

A power washer would be #1 on my list of things to use, unless you just plain like sharpening chains.

 

[Brmorgan]

Yep, pressure washers work great for that. I washed this birch stump / root ball off with one and it pretty much cleaned it right up. I'd need a sandblaster to do any better.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=78893&highlight=birch+root+burl

I was hoping to work on that thing over the winter but it's under a foot of snow now, so I don't think it'll get done.

 

[Backwood]

I'd like to see if I could get or make an oversized band mill that I could set the stumps on.
What was this seal stuff your talking about.

I have seen two bandmills that will cut a 52" log. I think it was hudson that had one for about 10000 for the head then you would make or buy the track, and just seen cooks new mill that will cut a 52" log that is selling for right at 90000. Big difference. But the cooks mill is made MUCH heavier with a whole lot more motor.
anchorseal, its a wax based sealer that you use on end grain to prevent it from cracking. And because the wood from a root ball would have grain going in every direction, not just on the end. It seals the wood so moisture cant escape fast. Moisture escaping fast will cause the wood to crack. I am not sure if sealing it would be the best thing to do ??? maybe others have an opinion ? Might not allow it to dry at all?? Are you planning on air drying or kiln drying ? If kiln drying you probably wouldnt need it.

 

[stumpjumper83]

Backwood, I have alot to learn. I was going to try making a band mill using the car tire set up that I see on some homeowner mills, Except I think im going to use a suspended carriage and have the track above the log. That should make it easier to position the root ball. I dunno exactly but thats the idea that I have.

 

[Backwoods]

An old bowl turner showed me how to store burls. I have a couple of walnut burls that I sprayed end seal on and then buried them in the sawdust pile. I keep the piles damp during the summer and covered during the rainy season. I have been digging down to them over the last year and they are looking like they are ready to mill up. With burls slow drying will prevent a lot of degrade.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I would think if tree grew in very rocky ground that it would
have a good chance of rock's grown in root ball....very bad for chain.

 

[MJR]

One big one + black power/cannon fuse = several smaller user friendly ones. Just an idea. good luck.

 

[Backwood]

 

[lostcoastland]

slabbin'

I also would liek to know more about slabbing. I have heard that a regular chain will get dull really quik and you should buy a ripping chain. I'd say the bigger the saw the better as well as a bigger bar prefferably with a helper handle w/ oiler, maybe a Carbide ripping chain, not the cheapest set up , or the most accurate but it'll work. If you could setup some rail's for it to ride on you'd pretty much have a lucas mill!!