Mix ratio

[WoodChuck'r]

In winter I run straight gas.

In the summer I run straight oil.

 

[TreeClimber57]

In winter I run straight gas.

In the summer I run straight oil.

Ah so in spring and summer would be 50/50 (likely around mid May and November ). I guess at some point during the year -- you would hit a 50:1 ratio for one day!! Or just about any ratio I guess.. So as long as you cut on certain days of year would be ok.. some better than others

 

[TreeClimber57]

How about for my iron seeking, double barrreled, lazer sighted, turbo, injected Wildthing?

Run that on straight gas.. high octane. Maybe then would actually develop a bit of power..

 

[Parotech]

I run Stihl "Motomix" (premixed fuel) at 50:1 for my ms290 ...
For my older saws i just add more oil (HP Ultra) to the premixed fuel at 32:1

 

[Stihlman441]

95 or 98 octane no ethanol,40:1 with Mobil Racing 2T fully synthetic

 

[gmax]

All my 2 stroke air cooled engines 5 or 50 years old use ALCO Synthetic 2-Stroke oil mixed at 50-1

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

Full synthetic oil, 92 octane, mixed @ 50:1, 365 days a year. No need to mess with anything.

Gary

:agree2::biggrinbounce2:

 

[ttyR2]

Shell regular unleaded with ethanol, Stihl Ultra, mixed at 50:1. Run it in the Stihl 026, 036, and ancient Echo EVL701. They all run awesome, pistions look beautiful with no scuffing.

 

[eyolf]

Gotta love these oil threads. Symptom of search function that doesn't really work, I guess.

I'm with the guys that mix at 42-point-something to One...3 oz/gallon. Easy to measure, and it has been working. Only thing easier would be to use premeasured bottles, but it just grates on my nerves to pay the price for a little convenience.

On the first page a poster quoted his relative's advice about oil quality. Pretty good advice as far as it went, except the details were a little lacking. I'm not sure many of us want another lecture comparing synthetic esters and olefins anyway. About 75% of the oil in the mix separates out inside the motor and slowly moves through, which explains how the 100:1 guys can get by...the majority of hand-held equipment can survive on that for a while anyway...and when the $70 weedeater bites the dust because nobody maintained it, who cares? Box-mart has more...

The cylinder head temps of a chainsaw operated at 100 deg F. will be about 35 deg higher than they will at 65 deg F., with corresponding increases in temps at other parts of the saw. Normally there should be enough margin to deal with that. MAYBE a highly modded saw running close to the edge at more normal temps, operated by a very fit operator who still has the stamina to push at full strength in the heat MIGHT have problems.

I'm a wimp; we had heat indexes here at over 100 last week, and I slowed way down and took a lot of water breaks. The equipment gets a break then, too...

 

[Cedar Ed]

I go by the manuels instructions.opcorn:

 

[gmax]

If I went by the user manual I should be running my PM Canadien at 16-1 :msp_ohmy:.. oils have come a long way since the early days.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I wonder if anyone's ever tried Benol in their engines. I see it at the races all the time.

 

[Fred482]

I agree with both Cedar Ed and Gmax, I go by the manufacturer's service manual but do adjust according to equipment age and relationship of the manual's printing date to oils that were available at that time. Oils have come a long way, I agree. I do look at the engine design as well. The newer equipment, I follow book specs.

The older 2-stroke design, older engines, larger bores, slower running, etc., require adequate lubrication. I adjust the mix to follow closely to the manufacturer's recommendation, taking into account the newer, better oil formulations.

My old Tecumseh JD 85G still gets near 24:1, but not quite.........!

 

[CJ1]

I wonder if anyone's ever tried Benol in their engines. I see it at the races all the time.

Unless you plan a teardown every 10 hours or so to clean the goo out of the topend I don't suggest it. The oil protects great but it is DIRTY. I won't get into a debate on oil. I have ran everything from 20:1 to 100:1, do what the OIL manufacturer suggests. Nothing but a high quality synthetic at 45:1 in everything that I run now. I lean more toward a race [higher rpm oil] than the standard low flash point oil just for the added protection in my 2 strokes. [yes I run em hard] CJ

 

[JustinM]

I run 32:1 all the time in all of my saws. I see no need to change what your doing. Just make sure it's tuned. That's all you need.

40:1 in all my 2 stroke engines here - always have, always will. Agree with you though - as long as its tuned accordingly, I dont think its really ever going to be a problem - 32:1, 40:1 or 50:1.

 

[Cedarkerf]

I agree with others Ive always ran 50:1 in my saws and 2stroke Honda CR 250 never an oil related problem why go 32:1what caused the switch.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I agree with others Ive always ran 50:1 in my saws and 2stroke Honda CR 250 never an oil related problem why go 32:1what caused the switch.

We used to use higher ratios in our 2 stroke motocrossers and some of us had bearing problems, with 32:1 it never was a problem. Besides, using Klotz Techniplate at the lower ratio it really smells up the neighborhood!

To each his own, however, if you get good results at higher ratios I'd say go ahead, you know, sometimes I probably get it closer to 40:1 because my mixing method isn't that accurate.

 

[Cedar Ed]

Mixmizer is a 2-cycle mixing tool for 16.1 to 100.1 fuel an oil mixing.It looks like a syringe with ratios marked on the side,works good when not needing alot of fuel,in short its meant for mixing a small batch of gas.

 

[GASoline71]

I go by the manuels instructions.opcorn:

Is it written in Spanish?

Gary