I watched your vid, you need to take the slotted screw that you can see when looking in through the grille of the muffler, remove it and then loosen up and remove the spark screen. its likely plugged up solid with carbon.
+1I watched your vid, you need to take the slotted screw that you can see when looking in through the grille of the muffler, remove it and then loosen up and remove the spark screen. its likely plugged up solid with carbon.
Testing Data from Stihl states:One of stihls highest rpm saws stock 15000 no load
Sounds a lot like when the chain brake is applied.
Jackssmallengine has a stihl data sheet most all saws are listed with a stihl spec sheet bore stroke rpm plug gap all that good stuffTesting Data from Stihl states:
Tuning RPM at full load (H screw): 14,000
- chain saws with bar and chain
- FS units without cutting attachment
I did not see a "no load RPM" Did you get the information from somewhere else?
13K is usually enough at WOT. Hey, we all make mistakes. You should see what an 084 can do to a chain brake mechanism and the clutch at WOT.Aw, man! I'm embarrassed to admit this was the right answer! Since I was testing it with the chain off, I didn't think about the position of my chain brake, which was indeed very much ON.
Fired it up and it did rev a lot better with the chain brake disengaged. I don't think it's revving to 14k but since I don't have a tacho, I'm first going to put it back together w/ a bar and chain and see how it cuts.
Thanks for your patience, guys!
P.S. Air filter and muffler were both things I suspected, too. The air filter does work properly when not on the saw, and the mesh in the muffler is clean.
Aw, man! I'm embarrassed to admit this was the right answer! Since I was testing it with the chain off, I didn't think about the position of my chain brake, which was indeed very much ON.
Fired it up and it did rev a lot better with the chain brake disengaged. I don't think it's revving to 14k but since I don't have a tacho, I'm first going to put it back together w/ a bar and chain and see how it cuts.
Thanks for your patience, guys!
P.S. Air filter and muffler were both things I suspected, too. The air filter does work properly when not on the saw, and the mesh in the muffler is clean.
Well then tune the top end for the best cut. 026 and 260 make the power with rpm.Aw, man! I'm embarrassed to admit this was the right answer! Since I was testing it with the chain off, I didn't think about the position of my chain brake, which was indeed very much ON.
Fired it up and it did rev a lot better with the chain brake disengaged. I don't think it's revving to 14k but since I don't have a tacho, I'm first going to put it back together w/ a bar and chain and see how it cuts.
Thanks for your patience, guys!
P.S. Air filter and muffler were both things I suspected, too. The air filter does work properly when not on the saw, and the mesh in the muffler is clean.
Did we get the carb adjusted after the chain brake was released?
Ok now that i looked back it does say 14.000rpm stock. Mine is not stock and it holds about 16.800 a bit rich. Thats what the tach said with the dodgegeeks taching the saw the went a smidgen leaner till my saw cut strong with no overheating issues. I dont know what the load rpm was but when i come across a tach il post it
Its got some porting no squish work i am running 40.1 mix syn blend 93 octaneThat saw is smoking at 16.800. What fuel mix ratio are you using. Just curious. I am assuming the saw is ported, (I may have missed that)...
Would love to see the video of the saw running. Sounds like tree monkey has built quite a saw. I believe he is a reputable builder here on AS, perhaps the others can chime in.A tree monkey saw the dodge geeks have will turn 18.000
It is on the Brainard Wadena gtg in a vidWould love to see the video of the saw running. Sounds like tree monkey has built quite a saw. I believe he is a reputable builder here on AS, perhaps the others can chime in.
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