MS 170 won't rev.

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poulson01

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What's up with this "IntelliCarb"? The saw is new (used 3 or 4 times in about a year). It sits behind the seat of my truck most of the time. If it had a regular carb, I'd turn the high jet out 1/2 a turn. If I run it full throttle without the air filter, I can put my thumb over the air cleaner hole briefly and the saw will rev until it leans out and then it stalls.

On a side note, this thing is a POS. Very cheaply built.
The "easy-off filter cover" doesn't fit right and you have to squeeze it and wiggle it under the front hand guard otherwise the chain brake won't disengage. I know it's not a pro saw but co'mon!

Edit: I can keep it revving by feathering my thumb over the air horn.
 
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Ive found that my MS 170 is very particular about fuel mix. I usually make the mix a little short on gas. So if it's a 1 gallon mix I'll put .92 gallon or so in. MS 170 doesn't like this much I think it fouls the plug. So I go strictly by the book with it and this has cleared up the problem. I like my MS 260 much better but when I have a newbie I start them off with the 170. Its a good saw.
 
If I run it full throttle without the air filter, I can put my thumb over the air cleaner hole briefly and the saw will rev until it leans out and then it stalls.

On a side note, this thing is a POS. Very cheaply built.
The "easy-off filter cover" doesn't fit right and you have to squeeze it and wiggle it under the front hand guard otherwise the chain brake won't disengage. I know it's not a pro saw but co'mon!

Edit: I can keep it revving by feathering my thumb over the air horn.


Are you setting it to full choke when you attempt to remove the filter cover? See page 44 in your owner's manual.

I have a 180 and a good friend owns a 170. There ain't nuthin' wrong with these little saws.

If you are having problems with yours, hopefully it's still under warranty and your dealer can resolve the issue.
 
It might be under warranty still. I'll call tomorrow. I always put the choke on before I take the filter off. Keeps the wood chips out. I took the air horn off and there is a port on top of the carb where the diaphragm is. The air horn has a removable restrictor thing that the port plugs into. I'll try messing with it tomorrow but I think something might have gotten stuck or plugged. I'll try adding a little oil to the mix but I can't believe that the carb is that sensitive. Also, I did get it to run ok a couple of weeks ago but it was a warm day. It's supposed to be in the 60s' tomorrow so I'll try it out. It never seemed to have the "snap" that a small saw should have. I dunno, I just wish it had screws to adjust. I don't trust this "IntelliCarb" deal.
I don't have a single saw that runs right. My Husky is hurtin, my father in laws is done, my step dads 024av is barely running and I just got my 025 back together. Hopefully, it'll run ok. I'm about ready to dig out my old McCulloch and fabricate a clutch for it. I have an antique Pioneer with a piston the size of my fist but I'm scared of it!
 
I feel you pain, poulson01. I hate it when ALL the saws start running bad.

Keep us posted on the 170, I'd like to know what fixes it.

I don't know, BTW, if the 170 has a real intellicarb. I think it's just a fixed jet that the EPA regs forced Stihl (and others) to go to to make the specs. Lake can weigh in and speak with some real knowledge on that.
 
the carb is very sensitive on these saws. incorrect or no air filter in it and it will run lean, bar oil will plug up the passages and had to clean carb 2 times to get it to run correctly. also top cover removes and installs easy with choke on. I like the 017 for small jobs, runs great.
:cheers:
 
It's no more sensitive than any other small bore carb. What it is sensitive to is old gas.. leave gas in it for 6 months and you have problems.


Check your fuel line for leaks..
 
It's no more sensitive than any other small bore carb. What it is sensitive to is old gas.. leave gas in it for 6 months and you have problems.


Check your fuel line for leaks..

+1

2 fuel lines in 2 years on my 170.Check it for small hair line cracks.
 
Took the carb off last night and fuel shot out under pressure. No leak in the fuel line, I guess! I added oil to the mix and it made no difference. I played with the restrictor in the air horn and no difference. I forgot to try running it without the fuel cap on. I called the dealer all day long and they never picked up and no answering machine. I'll call again tomorrow but I think the carb took a dump. I ran two tanks through the 024 and it just has nothing left. Needs a complete rebuild I think. The 025 oiler isn't working right and I'm not about to burn up $85 worth of brand new bar and chain. It seems to be leaking between the bar and oil hole. I think the plastic is warped from frying the chain and clutch (father in law is brutal on equipment):chainsaw: . Is there any way to make it seal better? I'm getting depressed.:(
 
025 - Try cleaning the bar holes... if oil is coming out of the case, it's pretty hard for it NOT to get to the bar and chain..

170 - rebuild the carb.. and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner. If you blast air though it, you'll ruin it for sure. If you have an carb reamer (not a drilll or wire!), carefully clean the main jet.

If you use premium gas, good quality mix oil,and don't leave gas in yout saw or CAN for more than a a month or two, you'll not have a carb problem..
 
025 - Try cleaning the bar holes... if oil is coming out of the case, it's pretty hard for it NOT to get to the bar and chain..

170 - rebuild the carb.. and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner. If you blast air though it, you'll ruin it for sure. If you have an carb reamer (not a drilll or wire!), carefully clean the main jet.

If you use premium gas, good quality mix oil,and don't leave gas in yout saw or CAN for more than a a month or two, you'll not have a carb problem..

The bar on the 025 is brand new. The oil leaks all over the clutch. I think it's leaking around the bar. When I took the bar off yesterday, I looked at the oil hole and you can see where the oil grove hits the bar. It lines up perfect so it's the right bar. I looked for cracks and didn't see any. I tried to eyeball the flatness of the plastic that the bar is squished against and I think it may be warped. I don't know if it can be draw filed flat again but it looks like a pretty big piece of the saw if it can't.

I called the dealer about the 170. They were closed yesterday. It's not under warranty. One month over.:mad: I guess it's time to take the carb apart. If you do the math, some gas must have sat in it for 3 or 4 months. I can't believe that it could have turned to crud that quickly but that's the only thing it could be. I don't know what a carb reamer is. Is it like an oxy-acetylene torch cleaning thing? I have those. I don't have an ultrasound thing either. The best I can do is some spray carb cleaner, some gas and a tooth brush. I was going to blow it out with air but you're probably right about messing up the diaphragms and stuff. I should be able to see the problem once I take the carb apart. Blockage or something stuck. I'll report back.
 
Ouch!

I called the dealer about the 170. They were closed yesterday. It's not under warranty. One month over.:mad: I guess it's time to take the carb apart. If you do the math, some gas must have sat in it for 3 or 4 months. I can't believe that it could have turned to crud that quickly but that's the only thing it could be.

You know it's a shame that Stihl doesn't warrant consumer class products or any of their equipment not used for pro use for TWO years like Husky does!
What a rip-off!
Al:dizzy:
 
You know it's a shame that Stihl doesn't warrant consumer class products or any of their equipment not used for pro use for TWO years like Husky does!
What a rip-off!
Al:dizzy:
Even if it was under warranty do you think stihl should fix it for free since the customer left gas in it for 4-5 months?
 
You know it's a shame that Stihl doesn't warrant consumer class products or any of their equipment not used for pro use for TWO years like Husky does!
What a rip-off!
Al:dizzy:

LOL! That's because Stihl doesn't have too. :)

If that 361 you have is over a year old, then ship it to me before it breaks and it costs you a ton of money. :) :)
 
Even if it was under warranty do you think stihl should fix it for free since the customer left gas in it for 4-5 months?

The Customer said it was 3-4months and yes Stihl should fix it. If they have no more confidence in their overpriced crap to warrant it for only a year and force you to buy it from a dealer then it is definitely buyer beware.
Sounds like a damn good reason to buy Husky!! Even from a box store!!
Al
 
You might remove the clutch on the 025, and look at the plastic around the
stick oiler. If the saw had someone "burn" up the clutch, other things likely
got hot as well.......
 
The Customer said it was 3-4months and yes Stihl should fix it. If they have no more confidence in their overpriced crap to warrant it for only a year and force you to buy it from a dealer then it is definitely buyer beware.
Sounds like a damn good reason to buy Husky!! Even from a box store!!
Al

dream on... warranty periods are not about "confidence" - it could be argued that they are about "lack of confidence! In reality... it's mainly marketing BS.

No manf warrants abuse - and old gas is. Most times I ask "how long has the gas been in the saw" I get the "few months" answer". Sorry, but gas does't turn to yellow varnish in "a few months". And rust in the carb shows there was water in the gas. Then there is the question - how old was the gas? Did you empty the can before you filled it up or was it half full of gas from the proir year? At tha point many have trouble making eye contact.
 
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Well maybe after a few more of these stories are told they'll consider it.
Al:cheers:

And what do you expect will happen after a few more of these stories - http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=61595 ?

I don't like getting involved in the Stihl vs Husky debates, (I do run Stihls now because I think my dealer is a stand up guy), but I hate to see a thread about an individual saw problem turn into a bashing of a manufacture's entire product line and customer support.
 

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