MS088 or 066

[Englishrob]

Hi all,

Just got a shiny new 30" Alaskan III Mill to mill some oak and chestnut into long beams for a new roof. No need for anything larger at this stage as I've not got anything much larger than this to mill. Question is will a 066 be sufficient for long cuts like this, or should I shell out the bit extra for the extra power of the 088.

Also should I stick with a 30" bar or go for a 36" bar (seems I can use any length bar in the mill) in case I find any larger trees to slice up later?

I also could consider the 395 or 3120 but am drawn to the Stihl for the (perceived?) extra reliability, although I know this is opening up a whole Pandora's box.

In terms of dealer follow up (in making a choice of brand) this is not too relevant as I am taking the saw out to Italy where I will be using it in my woods out there. The £ is not so strong against the Euro at the moment and the difference is quite significant if I were to buy it out there....

Any input would be much appreciated as I'm off to the shop very soon...


Thanks



Rob

 

[dustytools]

Hi all,

Just got a shiny new 30" Alaskan III Mill to mill some oak and chestnut into long beams for a new roof. No need for anything larger at this stage as I've not got anything much larger than this to mill. Question is will a 066 be sufficient for long cuts like this, or should I shell out the bit extra for the extra power of the 088.

Also should I stick with a 30" bar or go for a 36" bar (seems I can use any length bar in the mill) in case I find any larger trees to slice up later?

I also could consider the 395 or 3120 but am drawn to the Stihl for the (perceived?) extra reliability, although I know this is opening up a whole Pandora's box.

In terms of dealer follow up (in making a choice of brand) this is not too relevant as I am taking the saw out to Italy where I will be using it in my woods out there. The £ is not so strong against the Euro at the moment and the difference is quite significant if I were to buy it out there....

Any input would be much appreciated as I'm off to the shop very soon...


Thanks



Rob

My suggestion would be to buy as big as you can afford. Running a 30" mill will require you to buy a bar atleast 36" long if you intend to max out the mill so to speak. I run a 395 and an 084 and the 395 seems to keep up with the 084 in 24" logs and under. If you are limited to the price tag on the 660 then I say go for it, you will not be disappointed. Welcome to AS and dont forget to post a lot of milling pictures!

 

[046]

unless this saw is mill only... I'd go with MS660.

MS 880 will do a better job at milling, but it's so heavy. it'll wear you out trying to cut with MS 880 in normal use.

660/066 has enough grunt to mill, but light enough for general purpose duties.

 

[oldsaw]

unless this saw is mill only... I'd go with MS660.

MS 880 will do a better job at milling, but it's so heavy. it'll wear you out trying to cut with MS 880 in normal use.

660/066 has enough grunt to mill, but light enough for general purpose duties.

+1, I'd get the 660 too. It's plenty for what you are doing and will make a good "big saw" out of the mill as stated. You don't want to carry that 880 around. If you find a 395 and have dealer support, get it. I run an 066 and a 3120 as seen below. Both have time on a 42" bar full capacity in a 36" mill. The 3120 is faster in the big stuff, but I don't want to carry it anywhere. That's what the 066 is for.

Mark

 

[guitarborist]

unless this saw is mill only... I'd go with MS660.

MS 880 will do a better job at milling, but it's so heavy. it'll wear you out trying to cut with MS 880 in normal use.

660/066 has enough grunt to mill, but light enough for general purpose duties.

I agree. I have run a mill with a 36" bar and an 066 head through a lot of maple, mostly Norway but some 25" Sugar too. The 066 did the job well. I never used an 088 with the mill because I did not have one at that. After using an 088 now for larger stumps ect.. I do not think I would like to deal with one all day long in a mill. The 880 would surly do the job faster but I would rather go a little slower and save my back. If the chain is sharpened right and the saw is in good order then the 066 would do a great job.

 

[glennschumann]

I too recommend a 660 (or Husqvarna equal). That would be enough to work that size mill, but I recommend getting a 7 Tooth sprocket for the clutch drum, not the 8 Tooth sprocket. Based on a little experiment this weekend, it was easier to use (less grabby) and the speed of milling was the same.

Seeing that you are new, I'm sure that there would be many members here willing to visit you in Italy to show you a few tricks of the trade... all expenses paid, of course... wood slabs would be considered as an alternative compensation.

I made a post a few months ago outlining my beginning... see post 11 at this thread... The thread has good information overall about milling for the beginner. Just ask, you will get even more help.

The 660 should be fine... wait until you get that log that you can't get your mill around... then get an 880 if you want. That is how you start your chainsaw collection.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=853389#post853389

Schumann

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Taking cost out of the equation...

IMO if it's a dedicated milling saw, MS880 hands down. That saw will blast through wood with only a 36" bar plus you have the option to run longer bars in the future.

If you will use it for felling and bucking as well, MS660.

 

[Englishrob]

What a great response!

Think I'll probably stick with the 066 then to begin with and see how it goes. It might be a bit slower than the 088 but I like the idea of being able to use it other than just for milling.

It'll at least give me an excuse to buy another saw later

I can already taste the sawdust and I haven't even cut my first slab.

Thanks for all the advice (incl sprocket suggestion)

:greenchainsaw:

 

[820wards]

What a great response!

Think I'll probably stick with the 066 then to begin with and see how it goes. It might be a bit slower than the 088 but I like the idea of being able to use it other than just for milling.

It'll at least give me an excuse to buy another saw later

I can already taste the sawdust and I haven't even cut my first slab.

Thanks for all the advice (incl sprocket suggestion)

:greenchainsaw:

Send pictures, we love them...

jerry-

 

[Englishrob]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I went with the 660 in the end and a 36" bar. My god it seems like a monster. Can't wait to get it and the Unistrut out to Italy and do some milling.

 

[dustytools]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I went with the 660 in the end and a 36" bar. My god it seems like a monster. Can't wait to get it and the Unistrut out to Italy and do some milling.

Congratulations!!! Im sure that you will be happy with the 660. Be sure to take lots of pictures.

 

[Ironbark]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I went with the 660 in the end and a 36" bar. My god it seems like a monster. Can't wait to get it and the Unistrut out to Italy and do some milling.

Good choice. I have a 660 with 36" bar and 36 Alaskan. Don't run the new saw too hard in the mill to begin with. Let it idle a bit to keep the temps down. As you are in the UK Can also recommend Castrol Racing T2 synthetic oil from Halfords for milling, but you might want to run it in on the regular mineral oil. Have fun.

 

[Englishrob]

Hi Ironbark

What do you use as an end sealer? I see most on this forum recommend Anshorseal or similar latex paint, but I can't seem to find an equivalent in the uk.

I've been recommended by dealer to use Stihl oil for the first six months (whilst in warranty) to avoid any potential conflict should any damage occur to the engine.

Any other country specific pointers would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Rob

 

[Ironbark]

Sent you a PM.

 

[Englishrob]

Thanks Ironbark. Much appreciated

 

[contractgs]

I'd say the same as the above. I have an MS880 but it is a beast to start and carry around. It has more power but for normal crosscutting you get tired quickly.

Where did you get your mill from by the way?

Oh and I use a mix of 75% PVA glue and 25% water for end sealing. Mostly I'll use 2 coats and it seems to work fine. Also you can slop it around and it doesn't matter too much. If you have time end seal the whole ends of the log with a couple of coats a few days before milling. Easy to do and the planks come off already sealed.

 

[Ironbark]

I'll give that PVA a try next time.

 

[Englishrob]

Hi Contractgs

Love the idea of the PVA end sealer, thanks for that. I bought my mill from america and bought it back in my hand luggage. If you google it with pages from the uk there is a uk dealer who will do mail order, but it is £200 instead of $200...

Cheers

 

[Ironbark]

I bought my mill from america and bought it back in my hand luggage. If you google it with pages from the uk there is a uk dealer who will do mail order, but it is £200 instead of $200...

That's what I did too. Also bought a grinder and cut the plug off and run it through my 110V site transformer.