MS192C Compression and Troubleshooting Questions

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lucgallant

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Hi guys,

have a question for the experts. I've got an MS192C, about 10 years old. Bought it brand new back then. Ran good for about 6-7 years, then started giving me grief where it was hard to get warm. Once warm runs quite well, and I've done tons of tail cutting with it. Some days it started and ran perfectly and others it would stall a few seconds after starting. It always starts, it's just what it does after that that is inconsistent. I am super anal and have always ran premium and about 4 years ago I switched to Stihl Moto Mix.
So I suspected the carburetor, and bought a new Stihl one, but to no avail. I set the L and H screw per what the instruction sheet said.

Essentially it only runs if you keep pushing the purge bulb. So I suspect the impulse line preventing the fuel pump from continually feeding fuel.

Long story short I've got the saw completely apart, but the engine is still in the saw. I'm going to vac and pressure test the fuel system and engine so that I can be confident in those respects, per the service manual.

The impulse line was in place however for all I know maybe it's leaking at either end where it fits onto the fitting..

I've been browsing this forum reading about similar idling / acceleration issues and of course there are always so many possibilities.

Here's my immediate question. When I tested the compression a month or two ago, I got about 95 psi. Maybe 100 psi. Can someone who knows these saws tell me if that's decent or out to lunch? If I am going to do the piston and rings now is the best time. I don't want to get the whole saw back together and then have to dismantle it to do that.

Thanks!
 
Yes companies do make and sell them, I bought my one. I haven't seen any cheap un-branded ones that do though. I did read an old thread on here a while ago that showed how to add a Schrader to your existing tester.
 
So without the Shrader setup I shouldn't trust the result then, correct? Are large differences typical? 10-20-30-40 psi ?
 
It will read alot lower on small engines without Schrader at the end as the volume of the hose is included in the reading which wouldn't account for as much in a larger engine. How much it's out on your saw/guage I guess would depend on how long your hose is. I'd assume at least 20psi, just a guess though
 
So without the Shrader setup I shouldn't trust the result then, correct? Are large differences typical? 10-20-30-40 psi ?
Well calibrate your gauge test a nice newer saw and see what the results are also how many times did you pull it over untill it stopped rising or did you stop at a number of pulls?
 
I can definitely test another saw or my MS261. I pulled it until it stopped rising. I will find a schrader valve setup for sure and then repeat.
 
Actually all, I spoke out of turn. I was out running errands when I responded. The adapters in my kit don't have schrader valves, but the hose definitely does where it threads into the adapter. I thought the valve was up near the gauge. The spring seems nice and soft also. So then I might have some issues... And also the reason I didn't think it was an issue then is because I thought this saw had some type of decompression built in since it is so easy to crank. But finally I've discovered it does not.

On low compression like that, would it be typical to just replace rings if there is no piston damage or scoring? I will definitely repeat the compression test before endeavoring into that.
 
The top end is gone on the 192C. Bottom line -- rebuild the top end or replace the saw. Just MHO.
Well, I don't throw stuff out so I'm going to fix it. I'll be honest I use this saw solely for clearing dirt bike trails as it is mounted on the front of my dirt bike. I'm seriously getting the urge to go electric however I'm not throwing this Saul way because almost every aspect of it is in such Mint condition so hard to see it go.

I will do whatever it takes to get it fixed however out of curiosity is it and
idea to just do the rings and measure the compression again? if it needs a cylinder and a piston I will do it however obviously if I can avoid the cost and still get a good result I would like to try it.

Let me know thoughts, thanks!
 
Typically if the piston and cylinder look good, all that is needed is a ring. The top rod bearing and circlips are mandatory replacement when a saw get a ring job, imo. Not a terrible job to do.
 
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