MS200 case cracked

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Max

ArboristSite Operative
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Jun 28, 2004
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I was given a MS200 yesterday that is in pretty bad shape.
Cosmetically it can be cleaned up but the real bummer is that the case is cracked on the bottom and left side. I was wondering if there is a way to repair the case. I have read mention of "JB Weld" here in the past. Might this do the trick or should I just save a bit and get a case later down the road? The saw seems to have good compression and does run when it holds gas for a short time...it leaks out the case.
Does anyone know how much a new case is?
Thanks.
 
There are a ton of saws out there with JB weld bridging cracks. My first 064 had a patch on it when I bought it, never gave me a problem. Cases for the Ms-200 might be 70% the cost of a new saw, patch yours and lay the money away for your next saw purchase.
 
Sedanman;

I have done some repairs with J&B and alot with epoxy resin using layers of .75 oz. fiberglass cloth. Some of the new plastics are kinda waxy and hard to get a bite on and pretty flexible. Have you found any good fix for them. I am thinking of handle/ gas tanks. A lot of them get broken.
 
Thanks guys...I will try the JB Weld repair.
Do I need to do any other prep work to the case besides a good cleaning? Should I scuff up the case prior to laying down the JB Weld?
 
By all means scuff up the area to recieve the patch. Gives it something to grip.

About a month ago I replaced the case on a customers saws, the 200 is not a cheap saw. Off hand I don't remember the part cost but the entire repair including labor was around half the cost of a new saw so if the saw is in good shape other wise and the patch fails, case replacement is justified, especially if you do the labor yourself.

The patch should at least last long enough to give it a good work out to determine if patch is a failure that the saw is worth a case replacement.
 
I would sand/grind to bare metal and make sure it free of oil, clean with alcohol swabs.

Crofter, CA (cyanoacrylate sp?) glues do a decent job on the plastics, scratch 'em up smear on a coat of ca hit it with the kicker spray. re-inforce with epoxy/fiberglass. The ca bites fairlt well to scuffed up plastic and the epoxy willl get a good hold on the ca. Many times the liability of repairing the fuel tank is not worth the risk of new parts are available. You can get ca glue in a variety of thickness' and a "kicker" spray that instantly hardens the glue at any good hobby store.
 
I have today tested a (for me) new prudukt from Scantech, called "metal stick".
It's a two component clay that when mixed hardens on 10-15min.
I am seposed to use it on any metals, and even drill and make threads, I will test this out a bit and see how it works.
Sofar I have used it on aluminium/steel, magnesium, cast iron, steinless steel.

Mange
 
i must be the only one in here that uses a soldering gun and melts it back together to seal them up?
done a bunch this way. then add a couple layers of epoxy and the mat over it for strength.
 
soldering

Tool used to heat parts up enough tp melt solder into them for a good joint. Soldering gun, soldering iron.

I have tried the gun a few times on non critical repairs. Seem so hold fairly wel. Just a little bit leery of gas tanks. Too much liability in a shop. For someone's personal use, if it works, go for it.
 
Jim L.

I like it!

I am going to do so and then JB it. If it holds and runs I'm a happy guy.

Thanks guys!
 
Repair Cracked Plastic

Hi Max,
I don't get around here often, so I may be too late.
Anyway how 'bout checking with a auto body shop. They weld all sorts of plastics on cars now-a-days. Use a plastic welder and the correct filler material for the type of plastic yer fixin.
They sell the "Plastic Welders" for not alot, I don't know how they differ from a soldering iron, haven't seen one.
 
Thanks for the tip Dave.
I just got back from hunting in KY and the repair went as follows before I left. Complete degrease, soldering gun to melt the cracks, scuff cracked areas, complete degrease and the JB weld.
Its been sitting for a week and tomorrow is the day of truth.
I will check in later after I give it a whirl. :)
 
I would be interested to know how the repair holds up...

It sounds like a pretty neat solution to a plastic repair...
 
Just finished running the saw...runs great after a quick carb adjustment. The repairs held during about a half hour of running, tuning and cutting combined. It sat for another hour, still no leaks. I'm happy and time will tell how long she holds.
Thank you to all who offered how to repair it...it worked!
:blob2: :)
 
You'll have to change the frowny associated with the thread to a smiley.
 
Your right!

Thanks again for the suggestions. It is always a good feeling to fix something yourself.
 
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